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1946 Chevrolet 216 Wont start

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by stampp, Dec 17, 2012.

  1. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I am having a problem with my 1946 Chevrolet 216 engine. I redid a lot of the motor this past summer (head was cracked but is repaired) and reassembled it, adjusted the valves and everything and it wont start. I did not take the pistons out but there is compression in the cylinders. There is spark at the plugs and we dumped some fuel down the carburetor but it just wont fire up. Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I have new points but haven't put them in, I am hoping that will be a step in the right direction.

    Thanks,
    Peter
     
  2. pearl31
    Joined: Jul 6, 2012
    Posts: 44

    pearl31
    Member

    I've had a 46 1/2 ton 216 for a few years. Go to the stovebolt.com if you can't find the answers here.
     
  3. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,251

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    Finger over the spark plug hole compression, or over 120 psi measured all six with a compression tester?

    Was the distributor moved or removed when the head work was done?
     
  4. Malpass
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 492

    Malpass
    Member

    It's probably out of timing. Have you checked that yet, clean properly gapped plugs?

    Does it even try to fire? Any sputter or sign of life at all?




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  5. fnla39
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 109

    fnla39
    Member

  6. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The distributor was never removed from when it used to run. All we did was gap the points. The spark plugs are properly gapped to .040 as stated in the shop manual. It does not try to fire at all, no sputtering or anything. Only turning over and turning over, and turning over.
     
  7. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Also the camshaft and crank shaft did not come out of the block. It was exactly how it was when it last ran.
     
  8. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    .040 is too wide ,try .028-032 . And a fresh set of plugs,ya still using those little 10 MM jobbies? Also take a compression test you may have got the valves too tight.
     
  9. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,636

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca

    the spark plug gap should be .035 and did you adjust the points open? They should be adjusted when open (on the crown or point of the distributor cam, not on the flat surface). New points should be gapped between .022 and.024 to compensate for the new block. Otherwise, the point gap is .018. Remember, make certain that you gap the points open, with the block resting on the crown.
     
  10. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The points were properly gapped. We even were reading the shop manual as it was done. I can try adjusting the plug gaps - the manual says .040 but I can try a little smaller.
     
  11. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Also, the plugs were brand new. I had just opened each plug package and screwed on the tip to the plug itself.
     
  12. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    budd
    Member

    have you checked the compresion? and doubled checked the fireing order? also you could try towing it a little to get the motor spinning faster.
     
  13. drdoom
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 65

    drdoom
    Member
    from new jersey

    when you pulled the head did you clean any antifreeze out of the cylinders, cylinders may be washed of oil,try a few drops of engine oil in each cylinder,ive run into this as being a no start problem when every thing else seem to be in order,hope it may help,
     
  14. fnla39
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 109

    fnla39
    Member

    Are you getting fire to the plugs?
     
  15. Nonstop
    Joined: Jun 18, 2012
    Posts: 175

    Nonstop
    Member
    from CA

    Stupid question, but how did you adjust your valves? Might want to look at the adjustments.
     
  16. 71nova
    Joined: Nov 6, 2010
    Posts: 24

    71nova
    Member

    Years ago I installed a set of points in a 235 cu.in. Engine would not start. Motor ran before. Tried another new set, still no good. My boss told me to put the old set back in and the motor started. He said that the dist. was so worn that it wouldn`t take the new points. Just a thought for you.
     
  17. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The engine was cleaned and I put a few drops of oil on the cylinder walls. I found a valve adjusting procedure online and it seemed to match what the shop manual said. If cylinder 1 was at TDC then cylinders 1, 4, and 5 I believe it was could be adjusted. Then turn it so cylinder 6 was at TDC then the other cylinder's valves could be adjusted. There is spark at the plugs and they were gapped to the shop manual specifications. Firing order was correct. I have not put in new points yet but hopefully that will be 1 step closer to it starting.
     
  18. fnla39
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 109

    fnla39
    Member

    Still not running? If you've adjusted the valves correctly and your getting spark and fuel to carb then the only thing left is your intake. Check to see if there are any loose bolts, might be a vacuumn leak. If it sucking air somewhere it won't pull the fuel through. Spray a little starting fluid around the intake and base of carb while cranking it. Not too much though if it backfires and catches on fire it will be exciting time for a few minutes. Also you might change the condenser. I have heard of that giving people problems but never had it happen to me. Good luck and keep us posted.
     
  19. stampp
    Joined: Jan 19, 2012
    Posts: 35

    stampp
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Well it has been a while since this discussion was last viewed or edited but I have an update on this issue. I put the new points in, replaced the plug wires, and did some carburetor work and what'ya know. Got in the truck to try starting it again and it fired right off like it was warmed up already. Did some fine tuning with the choke and throttle knobs on the dash and now it will idle perfectly (probably around 400 rpm or so). Sounds great and now I can drive the truck. However, the carrier bearing in the drive shaft needs replacing and the pinion seal in the rear end will be replaced and then it will be as good as new (not really).
     

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