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1941 Diamond-T double cab build

Discussion in 'The Antiquated' started by scotty449, Dec 14, 2009.

  1. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Shock upper mounts attached to frame, more drilling.
    Took the driveshaft out, it needs to get stretched 9.5"
    20201228_151559.jpg
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  2. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    There's a lot going on here that isn't visible- the air bags needed adapter plates to spread their force to the frame. And with lots of rivet heads that meant, you guessed it, more drilling. Then holes to mount the bags to the frame.
    20201228_151605.jpg
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  3. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    As I left her, ready for the fuel tank to be fitted. I have an actual Isuzu in frame tank, with the correct brackets, so next trip will be finishing the brake lines and adding the fuel tank and lines. Best part is, the fuel tank will attach without any drilling.
    20201228_151552.jpg 20201228_152954.jpg
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  4. Roger O'Dell
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 1,143

    Roger O'Dell
    Member

    Wow I guess I lost your phone number , and my memory isn’t too hot. I didn’t remember or know about wood on earlier than my 48. I just hauled what was left of my second truck to Tom Warren Amarillo. How big are those front brakes ,I’m useing 1 ton Chevy.
     
  5. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,381

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    Watching closely, would love to do this one day. Nice progress and attention to details!
     
  6. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Steering connected. Nice to be able to turn the wheel and have wheels move.

    TurboClearIssueSide2.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  7. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Turbo location is an issue. As stock, it is not possible to simply bolt on due to the steering column and brake master locations. Two options, one down and back, tucked in and the other to go high and forward. Hung the stock turbo on the rear studs to suss out the rear and low location. Tight, which is nice in some ways, but certainly an option.

    Plumbing will be an issue, there is a lot going on in the area.

    TurboClearIssueTop1.jpg TurboIssueF1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2021
  8. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    First go with the CAD is high and forward. Changing the turbo foot from the stock Isuzu to be TD04 from a Saab and moved between cylinders 1 and 2. Advantage here is serviceability, lots of access and keeping the heat away from the cab.

    Having a custom manifold would make for a very clean installation, no adapters and so fewer exhaust unions to potentially fail. And I can cast the DT logo into the manifold, making it look more correct. The original manifolds are pretty.

    Test print of the first 2 ports and the turbo foot started to allow for test fitment in the truck.
    ExhManF-1.jpg ExhManFA-1.jpg ExhManFA-2.jpg ExhManFA-3.jpg
    Img_8812e.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2021
  9. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    More detail on why it has to be this way... Stock location has the compressor wheel rearwards, which puts the compressor into the cab firewall. I've already cut too much out of my foot box, and honestly want to go back on some of the cab changes. The turbo therefore needs to flip to have the exhaust compressor outlet pointing rearward.

    Here's the stock 4BD2 layout:
    turbo_Stock_location.jpg

    This has clearance issues with the cab, the steering column and the brake master. (Yes, I considered going RHD!)
     
  10. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    There is also the option to flip the turbo up. Am considering this as a fabricated part, or also as a printed and cast piece. Issue is that I'm adding additional failure points and expansion joints. Probably the fastest option to get back on the road though!

    turbo_flip.jpg turbo_flip2.jpg
     
  11. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Low and rear manifold is also possible.
    ExhManLR-1.jpg ExhManLR-2.jpg
    Comparison of low/rear vs high/front for the turbo location:
    TurboLocationCompare.jpg
     
  12. Joe Kickass
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 16

    Joe Kickass
    Member

    This is getting extra cool now. Reminds me of when I was a teen (early 80's) and dad was putting twin turbos on his AMC powered jet boat. Lot's of fabrication and figuring as this was not a bolt on project. I vote durability and serviceability.
     
    Guy Patterson likes this.
  13. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    A friend of mine suggested to do a compound turbo. Hmmm

    TurboLocationCompare.jpg
     
  14. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    48 hours and 37 minutes later we have two halves of the manifold ready. They fit properly on my spare head which is always a nice thing to see. I really appreciate DeerWife for the 3D printer, falls into best gift ever territory...

    Next step: get back out to the truck and test fit for best turbo location, check for any fine tuning to the design before doing some investment casting.
    Img_8815.jpg Img_8816.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
    porkshop likes this.
  15. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Got the printed manifolds in place for a fit check:
    20210321_095906.jpg 20210321_091324.jpg 20210321_152623.jpg
     
  16. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    So the turbo foot is correct, the manifold studs line up and the manifold generally fits. Block side plates stick out 1.5", more than expected so the turbo foot needs to move away from the block quite a bit. Between the two locations I'm happier with the rear and low as the exhaust piping has more of a chance to exit cleanly. So time to get back on the CAD box....
    DT_Rlow_4.jpg DT_Rlow_3.jpg
     
  17. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Since the intake is going to exit downwards to get to the intercooler, a straight shot between frame rail and engine while avoiding the starter and the engine cross member means a 10° angle is needed for the foot with centerline between runners 2 and 3. Putting the exit in the center of the manifold should contribute to more even flow between runners. It does get tight against the back of the alternator, will have to fit check before casting.
    More CAD time:
    DT_RC_2.jpg DT_RC_3.jpg DT_RC_1.jpg DT_RC_4.jpg
     
    The Magic Ratchet likes this.
  18. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    So there's good reason for printing these test items out. Seems like a brilliant design at 6AM, 100 miles away from the truck- and slightly less attractive in person. Gets real close to the steering linkage, not enough room against the alternator, ugh.
    20210328_094957.jpg 20210328_095001.jpg 20210328_095007.jpg 20210328_095048.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2021
  19. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    More detail on what isn't modeled, and yet is in the way: Oil dipstick tube and frame-wastegate clearance.
    20210328_095125.jpg 20210328_095134.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2021
  20. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Moving back from 2-3 to 3-4 gives lots more room for the intake pipe.
    Will move the foot up 1" to give clearance for the wastegate against the frame, and I can pull it in 1/4" as well.
    20210328_130154.jpg 20210328_130158.jpg
     
  21. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Nice thing is the model is fully parametric and stable, so all that is 5 min worth of mouse work:
    DT_RL_R03_1.jpg DT_RL_R03_2.jpg DT_RL_R03_3.jpg
     
    Kroombit likes this.
  22. Joe Kickass
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 16

    Joe Kickass
    Member

    How long does a print take?
     
  23. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    About 2 days print time, split into halves to fit on the printer bed.
     
  24. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Transmission cooler mounted on frame cross member under cab.
    20210410_145759.jpg
     
  25. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Thermostat housing had a blanking plug in one position; Now modified for stock DT bulb to drive the temp gage.
    20210328_152257.jpg 20210410_152413.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  26. scotty449
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 192

    scotty449
    Member
    from SoCal

    Intake hard pipe clipped for the flange, pipe turned on the lathe with retaining bump for spigot and welded in place. The ø2.5" 90° silicone hose fits nicely and allows the pipe to sneak under and through.
    20210410_153149.jpg 20210410_152417.jpg
     

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