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Projects 1941 Chevy Sedan Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Voh, May 8, 2011.

  1. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    She got a stable mate a few weeks ago...

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    IMG_0109.JPG
    IMG_0110.JPG Not too much on the cars over the holidays, but did get more done on the Shop. I have also calculated the cost per pair of doors, and will be starting those soon.
     
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  3. YJ4000
    Joined: Feb 5, 2009
    Posts: 269

    YJ4000
    Member

    That garage sign is really cool!! Great work.
    Ryan.
     
  4. don daddyo
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 222

    don daddyo
    Member

    Amazing shop you got there,something I do need in a future time...
     
  5. LTM75110
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 519

    LTM75110
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    41 Looking good,great shop ,too.Looking forward to see what happens to 37,.I had one back in the 80s.37 coop is a favorite of mine.
     
  6. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    IMG_0414.JPG

    IMG_0415.JPG We were able to get the first of the doors hung. The next one is gluing up now. Dad is mostly building them. He's 5'-9", just to see the scale.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016
  7. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    And last night I drug the sedan out there to give me a little elbow room in the house garage to start modifying my welding table.

    Its funny how the building looks big, then small then big as you complete different task (exterior sheating, floor, lights, etc.). Right now it appears to be the perfect size. IMG_0433.JPG
     
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  8. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

  9. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    Back on the sedan..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have the wheel well lips put back together and the fenders tacked in place for rebuilding. The plan is to just mold the fenders in because the flanges are gone.


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  10. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

  11. Christopher Aos
    Joined: Jul 6, 2017
    Posts: 3

    Christopher Aos

     

    Attached Files:

  12. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

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  13. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    I have made a little progress. I put a coat of simple primer on the whole thing.


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  14. Christopher Aos
    Joined: Jul 6, 2017
    Posts: 3

    Christopher Aos

    How did you remove the rad mount? Mine seemed integral to the crossmember.

     
  15. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    It is integral to the stock crossmember. I don't have a stock one under it any more. Have a Chassis Engineering Inc crossmember.


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  16. Christopher Aos
    Joined: Jul 6, 2017
    Posts: 3

    Christopher Aos

    Ok, that's what I thought. I'm going the same route with mine so it won't end up being an issue.
     
  17. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    No. But you need to build or buy a new crossmember for it. Chassis has that as well. Simple and clean install.


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  18. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    So I have run into an issue with the steering column. What are my options for steering u-joints? Any suggestions?
    THX
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    Finally something worthy of posting on. As with the rear fenders on this car, the fronts needed a bunch of work, including the mounting flange at the cowl. Got the drivers side close over the weekend.
     

    Attached Files:

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  20. a4t1rat
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 51

    a4t1rat
    Member
    from Utah

    Looks good, keep it going.
     
  21. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    So i have made some more progress. Was able to get the Chassis Engineering Inc pedal mount installed. The brake pedal is just fine, but the clutch is going to need some work. Any suggestions as to how best connect to the clutch fork?
    IMG_4988.JPG IMG_4989.JPG IMG_4990.JPG

    As you can see, the end of the fork is not over in line with the pedal.

    I have looked at the use of a Z-bar, but where the ball is on the block looks like it will be right in the way of the column. Can i just extend the clutch fork?

    Can I make a longer rod similar to factory, with a little more offset?

    View attachment 3916879

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  22. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

  23. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    I messed around with it yesterday ad built an offset rod for the clutch linkage. Used a heim joint at the pedal and run the rod through the clutch fork. I have a rocker ball in the mail, and will replace the flat washer when it gets in. it seems to work pretty well from a motion standpoint. Now to get some basic wiring on it so that I can test start it. IMG_5004[1].JPG
     
  24. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    Was able to the the CPP column saver in and the steering all connected.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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    Shadow Creek likes this.
  25. My Dad used a piece of chain for the clutch rod on his 40 Chevy. Been on there over 50 years, and still working.
     
  26. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,347

    burger
    Member
    from burbs

    Thanks for sharing these pictures. We have very similar builds. In my 41, I'm using the same CPP column kit and CE crossmember. Did you install a hiem joint to support the steering shaft?


    Thanks,
    Ed
     
  27. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    I have pictures of your car in front of the storage unit saved for reference. I didn't realize it was yours. To your question, I bought the heim but didn't use it. I read somewhere that if you use (3) ujoints, you need the heim. I was able to make it work with just the 2 of them. I did leave the shaft in the column longer, so I think that helps. A bit of advice while its all apart, clearance the motor mount a little bit. Its very close there. Also you might want to put on the ujoint at the R&P, as it BARELY clears. When mine comes back apart, I am going to clearance both these areas.
     
  28. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    Scooterville likes this.
  29. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,347

    burger
    Member
    from burbs

    Thanks for the reply! I see how a longer shaft in the steering column would make all the difference. Mine's already cut though, so it looks like I'm stuck with three u-joints and a support heim! What have you figured out for exhaust? I see ram horns in your pictures. How well do those work out?

    Ed
     
  30. Voh
    Joined: Oct 18, 2006
    Posts: 819

    Voh
    Member

    I have not made it to the exhaust part, although I think it will work. It will be tight on the drivers side, but I think it can be massaged around it well enough. I am on the hunt for the radiator now. My original was basically shot, with the sides falling off and leaks.
     

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