Projects 1940s Model A Sport Coupe Build Thread

Thanks for the tip. The seat unbolts easily with four bolts from underneath if I need to take it out. I don't clean my cars as I'd rather be driving them so that's not a problem for me either.

 

This weekend I worked more on the brakes. I was able to get a reman '67 Mustang master cylinder for manual drum/drum brakes. After a few searches on the HAMB I found this is a good dual cylinder to use with the old Ford brakes. I was also able to easily add it to my '39 style mount with a little work.



I was able to drill blind mounting holes for the two-hole Mustang flange and use countersunk head bolts to mount behind the Ford pedal mount. The threads you see sticking out are actually now welded in studs for the top of the old master "triangle" bolt mount to the pedals. I didn't have room to fit countersunk heads for all four of the bolts so making these into studs was beneficial.



Now I can "stop" worrying about running a single jug master and fit everything together without any problems.





I also had my neighbor help me break up the metal for my gas tank. Here is the top and bottom. I'll be working on the tank this week.

 

Good move on the 2 hole MasterCylinder.One caution,I learned while reading here on Hamb = Do Not use an inline hydralic brakelite switch.Those switches are known to leak.your car being a hotrod is more prone to having a problem.Brake Fluid contains 80-85% solvent in the form of glycols,is a flamable product. Get a lever activated brakelite switch.Tnomoldw aka Bill Thttp://www.hotrodexpress.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=23 Looking good .

(notes taken from post Builder Steve in Nova Scotia) Answer comment by Hotrodder in SanJose ''You despise winter? Me too. That's why I live where we really don't have winter. I remember in '74 some white stuff fell from the sky. I called 911. They said it was snow and not to worry.'' It was Robert E. "Bob" Fitzgerald and his colleagues who implemented the first 911 system in Haleyville (Ala.) in 1968.

 

Dude this ain't no forties build. I see you using a cordless drill, weren't no cordless drills in the forties.

I'll say it again. Modern fuel blends and prices will eventually demand that we all start running smaller more modern motors, assuming we want to drive our cars with some regularity. People complain that they can't drive thier cars anymore because every time they take them out for the day it costs 180 dollars in fuel.

Your fabrication work looks great, hope I don't stir the hornets nest too bad but I had to let my opinion be known.

 

Looking awesome Josh!!

BTW, just my experience but... I've used those hydraulic brake switches on every old ford I've ever had and NEVER had an issue with one.

 

lol So have I ,not not all but many. I was just reading a build where a mechanic stated he was present at a total burnup and was sugesting the use of the lever type switch. I have seen them leak though.I maintained a fleet of EMS vehicles for 3 years. Ive seen the rotors burned off in just a few miles.

 

Thanks, Andy! I have used those switches on all my cars too and never had any problem. I used a lever switch years ago in my Studebaker and it was a problem as the adjustable arm kept moving over time and I'd end up with no brake lights. I have never had a problem with a hydro swtich plugged into a tee in the rear line.

 

I've had a problem with hydraulic switches too, but never had a mechanical switch fail. Nor would I have to bleed my brakes if a mechanical switch failed.

I'm not hatin' on hydraulic, I just prefer mechanical now.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Got the tank pieces trial fit in the car. Here is how the thing looks. Still chasing down fittings then I can start welding it up.





The diagonal tubes you see will hold the firewall between the trunk and the interior compartment. The filler, sender, and fittings will all be in the trunk befind the firewall.

 

Lookin good. Most of the snow melted here in Indiana today.

 

This weekend I got some work done on the roof. I wasn't sure what direction I wanted to go. I wanted a canvas roof for a while, but the cost of upholstry is out of my budget. I wanted to add a 5 window roof, but both the ones I have are rusted to the point of only being used for pieces. I resigned myself to building a faux sport roof, but out of steel. The only problem is that there are huge blind spots in a sport coupe and I plan on driving in traffic a lot. So I came up with a hybrid. I'm going to build a faux sport style roof, but there will be quarter windows and a trim line similar to a special coupe. IE, the doors and quarter windows will be body color and the roof will be a brown in color and made to look like it is rough grain vinyl.

So I started by making a new center bow from some tubing.





The tubing has the same crown as the front of the roof.

Then I started on the quarter windows. I had some '30-'31 sedan door tops that were in great shape. Unfortunately they were a little large!



So after I whacked 17" out of the center I ended up with better proportions.



I then had to chop the window 1" to get the height the same as the door.



Here I have the rear roof section set on. The roof will have a bolted seam along the bottom just as the sport roof did originally, but it will be welded on top and filled.





I have a roof panel from a '70s Camaro that has the right crown left to right and front to back to make most of the roof. More to come.

 

Worked a little more on the top this weekend. I got my new windshield header wood in so I started to fit it up.



Once the wood was in place I was able to start fitting the windshield frame and hinge. Next I'll be drilling the mounting holes for the screws to hold the frame in place.

 

looking good!

 

Good you are getting some project work in. I was wondering about puting in a cowl veny plus winshild opening
but that can’t be your car. It must be your mama’s car. I’m sorta embarrassed to be this close to ya.

 

Just a thought, but for the blind-spot, why not a Business Coupe Roof?

 

Very interesting project

 

dont let anyone bug ya on your engine Im puttin a Datsun engine in mine

 

Likewise... I've got a round port hole from a mid-50's Ford T-bird on my list of possibilities, for a lift-off Carson style roof. Gary

 

I'm enjoying this build.
Subscribed.

Regards Dave.

 

This is something I was seriously considering. Business coupes are pretty rare nowadays and it's a different look. My car will have a very similar look in relation to paint lines and trim. The only difference is I'll have more of a 5-window side profile with the square windows.

 

Good work i like the window job, as for the engine your car i like too but not knowing much, wouldn't the injection be better towards your 25/27 mpg

 

I m just fooling around,hope you don t mind, I put 50 chevy 1/4 windows in your A coupe, Bill aka Tnomoldw
Anyone can slap paint on a Arizona car and call it done. It takes REAL car people to look at a rusty shitbox and say "Yeah, I got this."

 

I'm not much of a fuel injection guy. It's nice on my modern winter rides, but it's too complicated to transplant in my older cars. I have no interest in trying to cobble a computer harness together and the fuelie 2.3L is ugly as sin. It's worth it to me to lose 1 or 2 mpg to not have to deal with the hassle of efi.

 

Interesting idea. Those windows make the rear of the roof look like a '57 Buick.

 

The top is looking good. I can't wait to see it tacked together. I'm partial to doing things a little different with a Model A. BTW, no offense to the poster, but those corner windows don't work at all. Too many windows down the side.

Mike

 

I agree. You were doing just great till you started working on those quarter windows. It will really throw the looks of the car off. I say get some other opinions on a solution that will work. Everthing else you have been doing is great. Nice work

 

Just to be clear those other windows were one guy's idea. I am not doing that, just building a 5 window top like any other Model A. I'm building the car to look like it was done back in '47 so nothing on the exterior is going to look newer or come from a vehicle newer than '47.

 

Worked real quick last night on the steering (it was 22 F in the garage so kind of nippy!) I am coupling an original '36 Ford column to a Vega box. I cut the end of the Ford column down and then needed to make a new end piece to couple to the Borgeson u-joint. I used a piece of 3/4" DD shaft with the ended turned down to slip inside the '36 tube. I like to drill holes for the set screws to get a better bite into the shaft.



With the DD shaft slid in place I will mock the box location up then weld the two shafts together. I'll plug and butt weld the shafts and will probably add a mild steel pin through both as well just to be triple safe. I know that might be overkill, but I don't want that sucker to come apart under any circumstances!



It's a tight fit, but the U-joint just clears the engine to frame mount and the motor mount. I shook the engine back and forth to make sure the rubber mount wouldn't hit the joint and it appears to be okay too.



Borgeson joints aren't cheap, but they are made in the USA in CT so that's all I needed to hear.

 

Nice work! If this is supposed to be reminiscent of what a "kid" would have done back in the day ... he was a pretty talented kid with access to some pretty awesome tools for his time.

 

I know, right? I better add some booger stick welds and torched out holes here and there to help with the disguise! Love your avatar pic, BTW!