I’ve split my wishbones and attached them to the Pete and Jakes trans and bones mount. My problem that I see is one wishbone mount is longer then the other. Off by about 1/4-1/2 inch. They were exactly equal when cut Is this a big deal? Typical? My axle not straight? How do I figure it out and correct it. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So......How did the mount lose length in the time between you cutting them and then attaching said mounts ?
Take them off and adjust them to the same length... Then put them back on....you may have to pull your axle around a little to get them back on
So get them straight by pulling back on the axle? Should I put the car on the ground loaded with rims/tires? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Familiar with the term "tolerance stacking"? Sit the car on it's own weight and measure the wheelbase. Those adjusters are threaded for a reason.
I am not familiar with that. The rear end is loose because I removed the banjo and getting ready to install a 9”. This sounds like a final fit when the car is getting ready to roll. I’ll see about bending it around with even threads. Should be good for mock up now. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I found this on another thread, it seems like a quick way to get your front end and rear end going in the same direction especially since you're not starting with a bare chassis. "Put the car on jack stands with the wheels off. Wrap the plum bob string around a wheel stud, always off the rear of the stud. With a level on the top two studs, mark the floor. Measure front to back on each side, and criss cross. Adjust as necessary. Set the toe to 1/16 for radials, or 1/8 to 1/4 for bias plys." A quote from Ole Don from the "measuring points for squaring up a chassis" thread. There you go, short and sweet. There's more info in the thread but this is all you need for your current situation.
First thing to check is that the length of the wishbones with the adjusters are equal in length. Also check that the axle is centered and that the shackles are at the same angle. Then to rough it out, pick a point that is the same on each side of the frame and measure from there to the end of the axle. If necessary loosen the spring clamp and push the axle til the measurements are equal and tighten the spring clamp. Looking at your pictures, it seems like you have an awful lot of thread exposed which leads me to believe you don't have a lot of thread engagement. (Conjecture, since I don't know how long your adjusters are.)
Had the same issue with project I'm working on. Turns out it's how far each tie rod end had been threaded/casting shift. Measure from the true center point of each tie rod end to perch bolt center line and see what you get that way.
Square the front axle to the chassis centerline, it doesn't matter if the adjusters turn out the same or not, just that the axle is right. A lot of little things can cause the difference in the adjustment of the ends but the important thing is that the axle right with the car centerline.
When I am taking close measurements with a tape as you show, I like to "cut an inch". Not literally! Starting at the one or two inch mark gives me a more accurate measurement than the sliding metal hook on the end of the tape. Just what works for me.
The tie rod ends should be engaged one and a half times the diameter of the threaded portion. So for a 3/4 thread it should engage no less than 1”1/8..
Pull the long one back 3/8ths of an inch and call it good. You'e way over thinking this shit. Hell, a rubber bushed suspension bushing will deflect that much. When the car's done, take it somewhere to have it aligned. You gotta have better things to do than worrying about 3/8ths of an inch.
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