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1940 Plymouth, It's time!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SlmLrd, May 3, 2011.

  1. Pnzrdvsn
    Joined: May 27, 2011
    Posts: 14

    Pnzrdvsn
    Member
    from Escondido

    Looks pretty nice, how much of a chop were you planning on doing when you reach that point?
     
  2. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    What are you waiting for? Got pics?
     
  3. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Hahaha, right. Its my friends shop. Makes things a whooole lot easier when you have the right tools and an extra set of hands. The front clip fab and air setup is all them, Im just stopping by, talking some shit and snapping some pictures. :eek:

    I can do me some electrical, bodywork, glass install etc, but I leave structural welding and suspension setup to people that do it for a living.:D At this point, I choose my battles, hahaha.
     
  4. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Will do, thanks Chuck!!

    You will find the right one at the right price. Funny how things like that work.
     
  5. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    The chop is coming right after the suspension is done and engine/trans install. Thinking of 3-4" but its really going to be whatever looks best. Im super particular, so its gotta be perfect. Not too little, not to much, and floooooow!
     
  6. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Saturdays been a busy day, but we are about ready to mock the engine. Once we fab the motor/trans mounts, its time for the 4-link. Shes coming right along!! :D Measured the radiator mount and will be going bumper-less in the front. Planning on capping the front, but still need to find a radiator.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2013
  7. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,525

    RodStRace
    Member

    2 van projects, a race car project and all the usual house and life stuff.
    Pics in my profile.
     
  8. exterminator
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,582

    exterminator
    Member

    Your making progress,looking good!
     
  9. powhatan42
    Joined: Apr 26, 2011
    Posts: 148

    powhatan42
    Member

    Nice work! We will be right behind you on the build. Let us know which way you will be going with the radiator. I saw a copper and brass seven core offset radiator in a '36 Plymouth Coupe. An aluminum radiator was not enough to keep him cool!:cool::cool::cool:
     
  10. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    What kind of engine/trans?
     
  11. powhatan42
    Joined: Apr 26, 2011
    Posts: 148

    powhatan42
    Member


    The '36 plymouth had a '57 392 hemi with a blower and dual four barrels. the tranny was a 727. He said an aluminum radiator did not keep his engine cool enough.
     
  12. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Well I don't doubt that, sounds fire breathing! I think a 3 row aluminum should cool mine fine- ya think?
     
  13. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    You're making great progress, looking good so far!
     

  14. Hear Hear to that philosophy..nothing better than a 70 year old rust-free mopar at that!:)
     
  15. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,492

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    quick and good progress, im thinkin we'll see this one togheter fairly fast.
     
  16. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    You are correct, there is limited wheel space in the fender, so swapping the rear is probably not going to be an option. If I was you, I would widen the c-notch, make it taller and have it leaning inwards slightly to ensure clearance when the car is laying down. (considering the notch wil taper towards the highest point.) You could leave the old notch in place while you make the new one around it. I know this is not the easiest solution, but it will get rid of your clearance issues.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Thanks for the info Eric! Yeah, I'm gonna look into a swap first. The offset explorer 8.8 yoke is playing games with my floor tunnel and factory x-beam. Gonna see which way makes the most sense and go with it. :)
     
  18. kngfisher
    Joined: Sep 15, 2010
    Posts: 65

    kngfisher
    Member
    from Virginia

    the rear fenders can be easily widened by a few inches. Mine are widened 3". I use a chevy 10bolt rear out of a 1st gen camaro without issues.[​IMG]
     
  19. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Im not looking to widen the fenders, but thank you. :)
     
  20. Raven53
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 442

    Raven53
    Member
    from Irwin Pa

    I have a 40 4 door and 3 parts cars, I love the car it steers like a dream. If you need any parts let me know I might have it .
     
  21. powhatan42
    Joined: Apr 26, 2011
    Posts: 148

    powhatan42
    Member

    Slmlrd,

    There are a million options, fans, temperature controls that turn on and off a preset temperatures etc. Check out the specifications on the three row aluminum. Always err on the cooler side.:D:D
     
  22. powhatan42
    Joined: Apr 26, 2011
    Posts: 148

    powhatan42
    Member

    Slmlrd,

    Keep up the good work, you make me proud!
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2011
  23. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    Awwww, shucks! :D
     
  24. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    The Explorer rear end with the discs just doesn't fit... I either have to find a rear axle that is 60.5" mounting plate to mounting plate, or pinch the rails in the rear and add 1" wheel adapters on both sides so I dont rub with the car layed all the way out. I don't want to add wheel adapters, but at the same time, I cant afford to buy a custom length rear end either.

    fun, fun, fun! :)
     
  25. exterminator
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,582

    exterminator
    Member

    We just dropped in a lincoln versaille rear end in my 41 ply and it fits good.Don't remember what year tho.
     
  26. SlmLrd
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 988

    SlmLrd
    Member
    from DAGO

    The problem Im having is the fit between the wheel wells and the c-notch when the car is layed out all the way. I think we are going to pinch the frame rails in the rear to fit, while I save up some $$ for a cut down 9" to fit.

    We'll see. Pics to come this weekend.
     
  27. 36DodgeRam
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 505

    36DodgeRam
    Member

    I used a '79 Trans Am 10 bolt 3:08 posi in my '40 Plymouth Coupe. Perfect fit for spring pads on original leafs, and correct width to center the tires in the fenders. It also lines the driveshaft right through the X frame.
     

    Attached Files:

  28. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,551

    73RR
    Member


    Is this a reference to the spring pads or the wheel mounting flange?

    Check here: http://www.carnut.com/specs/rear.html

    .
     
  29. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,525

    RodStRace
    Member

  30. kngfisher
    Joined: Sep 15, 2010
    Posts: 65

    kngfisher
    Member
    from Virginia

    can help with that, try rear from 79 lincoln versaille

    I have a pair of rotors, calipers, 28 spline axles, and gears....just not housing if interested. finding the housing that matches up to the axles is the hard part. Came with the car but it also had a chevy rear in it so going to keep that bolt pattern for now.

    and great video find RodStRace
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2011

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