I am installing the red Torque Tube Seal to prevent rear gear oil from draining into the torque tube as my 40 is "raked". It fits between the banjo and the end of torque tube and has a neoprene oil seal that rides on the drive shaft coupler. I have a few questions as I notice that the RED T T Seal blocks off the hole you see in the banjo and the matching "cut out" in the torque tube. 1. What is the purpose of the afore mentioned hole and cut out? 2. Is it a form of vent for the rear end? 3. How does the big bearing (shown) get lubrication? 4. Will blocking the "hole" and cut out do any damage to that bearing or anything else? I am thinking that the rotation of the ring and pinion forces gear oil from inside the banjo through the big bearing. That oil is then returned to the banjo by the matching of the "hole" and the "cut out". Otherwise it would just build up inside the red torque tube seal. Therefore, wouldn't it be wise to modify the red torque tube seal with a little external tube that permits the gear oil to return to the banjo via the hole? I appreciate any and all ideas and info. that you may provide. Jim Attached Thumbnails
Hole and slot are to allow rear gear oil that comes thru the bearing to drain back into the rear end housing. Not needed in your application. Be sure surfaces are clean on reassembly. Wrap the drive shaft coupler with some thin material, I use clear sleeves to protect paper, to protect the seal from damage when passing over the rivet. Measure to where seal rides on coupler and polish good to get good seal.
AngleDrive, Thanks for the help. I am still wondering how does the oil that comes through the bearing drain back into the rear end housing if that hole and slot are blocked off by the red torque tube seal? I would think that the "red" torque tube seal would eventually fill up with rear end oil. I know you said "not needed in my application', but I am still having trouble understanding. What am I not getting clear in my mind? Thanks.
I have one to install next week. I don't believe it completely covers the hole but the access oil will drain back thru the bearing assembly. I usually leave gear oil 1/2 inch low. Been many of those seals installed with no issues. Tom
AngleDrive: I test fit Bruce's seal, the gaskets and the torque tube against the banjo and Bruce's seal does completely cover the hole and cut out. I noticed that the seal Bruce sent me does not have the drain tube he installed on his earlier torque tube seals. Wonder why he eliminated it? This makes me think a drain tube is needed and it would be a good precaution to add one to the seal he now sells. I don't see how it could do any harm. See earlier seal here. Open and scroll down. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142427&highlight=banjo+torque+tube+seal
I am going to completely rethink this problem. Perhaps the drain tube is not needed in Bruces torque Tube seal once installed. My rear is completely out of my car so I stood it up vertically and poured some gear oil on the big bearing. The oil did drain back thru the bearing like you said. Plus, some has to be able to get onto the spline coupler so as to lube the oil seal in Bruce's part. Here is some info. I got on Fordbarn that you may find helpful. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1455154#post1455154
Jim, Never have put a vent in any of mine, but it isn't a bad idea. I took a couple photos today. The pinion bearing race is grooved in the middle and has holes to drain fluid back to housing. Hole in bottom of housing to return fluid to rear end. You could chamfer the return hole in question as the race has a small round on the edge. I personally don't think you need it as the amount of fluid going thru the pinion bearing is going to drain back. Give Bruce a call and ask him what he thinks.
Wow, you really took your's all apart. I did not go that far. Just removed the rear with torque tube and installed new center bearing. I did notice that Bruce's TT seal didn't fit flat against the end of the torque tube as it was rubbing against the ID of the edge of the torque tube. Had to chamfer the edge to get a flat "true" fit. be sure to plug the inside of torque tube with rag so metal chips don't go down the tube. Pull out rag and then use a strong magnet to pick up any remaining metal dust. Like your nice gaskets. Sure beats using a manilla envelope and an Xacto knife.
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