So after doing all my measurements to put a 9” in my 40 Ford it was installed. Equal measure from frame to backing plate on both sides. Buuuuuuuuuut..... after putting the fenders on yesterday my tire clearance it off. 1. I guess it could be my fenders but can they be off this much?? 2. My car has been restored and probably off the frame before. Will the body have any move meant if I loosen the body and attempt to readjust the rear on the frame? Thanks Driver side Passenger side Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Have you put the fenders side by side and taken some measurements? I can say that on a project I have underway (another ‘35 pickup) each of the rear fenders are somewhat different in width.
Assuming you are happy with the front end track and fender clearances; and the wheel base on both sides is the same front to back, it may just be a matter of giving a tug on the fender that fits too closely. Was it stored with a box of bricks inside it, or some other junk that might have put a little curve it in? LOL Still have the buggy spring? Or have you gone to something else that might have a Panhard bar to keep the rear end in position? (I don't know if the 40's had Panhard bars as OE). If the latter, and the car is close to its "running weight / ride height" all you may have to do is adjust the Panhard bar a little to get the axle to move over. The axle will swing in an arc off the Panhard bar's frame mount as the diff rises up and down when it hits bumps, so the left / right clearances to the backing plates will always be changing. If the car sits high now, because it is still unfinished / a little light, the diff probably isn't anywhere it will end up later, too. But pulling out the fender might be the easiest solution. You probably won't know exactly what to do until the car is nearly finished, at ride height and full of fuel and fluids and a rider or two.
Had nice 36 sedan. It appeared that it had never had any heavy damage. We put an 8 inch Ford rear in it on chassis eng. leaf kit. Put the fenders back on and it looked like the wheel base was off. Looked at another 36 at a car show. The owner said he had. The same problem.wheel base was dead on. Fenders on left side were stamped with a bit of difference from the right.
There is no slack in the body to frame mounting, it's a snug fit. You can't slide the body over to one side. The problem is either in your fenders, or the axle isn't centered. Or maybe the wheels were built wrong?
It has the posie rear leaf setup now with the 9”. No pan head bar. All good advise and I’ll see what I can find. It’s pretty close to ride height with 4” dropped axle and posie spring, but still needs the motor in.... another car “friend” said to loosen the bolts but not out and shift the car over 1/2 and inch Pretty sure it won’t have that much play... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well, dang then... with the dual leafs, then moving the spring pads on the axle might be your only option. Are they tacked in now, or already welded? For future reference... different problem. I had a CE dual leaf kit for my 37 Ford. Despite following the instructions to what I thought was the "letter," the wheel bases were different side to side versus the wheel well centers (and each other, too). That was corrected by using lowering lowering blocks with one side being adjustable (Speedway). The adjustable block would allow you to move one axle end forward or backward a little bit in order to get the wheel bases equal on each side (you don't want the axle out of square on the chassis or to the front axle, either). Getting the wheels centered in the wells of the fenders was the second problem. Also, the CE kit also has 2 mounting holes in the lower spring plates, so you can also adjust the lead / trail of one axle end or the other a tad, or both at the same time to shorten or lengthen the wheel base. Again, best not to get the diff out of square with the frame or front axle. Minor mods to the fender still might be easiest, if the axle is squared up and all the tracks / wheel bases are ok.
Not sure if yours is front or rear, but as your talking about a mew rear axle, I assume it’s the back, and my 40 sedan is similar, tighter to the fender lio on passenger side. These cars were mass produced and nine are the same, this stuff happened. Not sure what the answer is, some clever fender mods on the tight side? Just thinking, to check the body is centred, measure between the inner fender well where it hangs over the chassis, to the chassis rail. If that gap is the same both sides, and assuming your axle is centred, it’s the fender
As far as front to back wheel base, can that be adjusted (within reason) with the split wishbones adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
My 39 was similar but I even still have the Banjo in it, and it is the fenders the car was born with. I think what you will find is that the fenders themselves are off from side to side. remember when these were new they sat like a 4x4 truck, fender clearance was not an issue. Now that we have lowered them it becomes very apparent. I would recommend pulling both rear wheels and using a large square and a plumb bob taped to the outside of the fender dropping right through the center of the wheel opening. using the large square measure from the outside of the frame rail to the plumb bob line on both sides. I bet you'll see the difference in width right there. Thats how i did mine. Also make a card board template of the curve of the fender from the quarter panel down to the wheel opening, on the side that has the most tire to fender clearance. Now go check it on the other fender. I can just about guarantee the curve is not quite the same side to side and that is where the space difference is at. To remedy the issue on my sedan, I used a 6 inch long 2x4 block with a groove cut in it to fit the lip of the fender from the inside. With the fender securely mounted to the quarter panel, I used a porta power to slowly and gently push the edge of the fender lip out till I got the same measurement side to side. working slowly from the center of the wheel opening down the bottom of the fender opening alternating between the front side of the opening and the rear side of the opening. use the curve gauge as you go to check you progress. go slow and you wont even disturb paint on th panel. Mine still has the original paint on it. Just do this slowly till your frame to fender opening measurements match up side to side and you will be good.
Hung the plumb bob. 12” on one side 13 on the other. Didn’t think it could be THAT BAD.... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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