OK, this may sound stupid and maybe I didn't think it all the way through, but...can you switch the bells around on a 1940 Ford rearend so the spring is in front of the axle, not behind? Would this interfere with the wishbones mounting at the end of the axle? Am I a moron? I did some searching and didn't find what I was looking for... The reason I ask is I would want to mount this under a Model A coupe, but don't want to lengthen the frame OR mount the spring over the rearend(Model A style). Maybe I could weld in a tubular rear crossmember, with a flat surface for mounting the spring, ahead of the stock one? That would more easily keep the car in it's currently lowered stance. Right now, the rear is stock Model A with coilovers and stock wishbones and torque tube(connected to a '39 Ford toploader), with the bottom leaf from a reversed-eye spring pack acting as a panhard bar and keeping everything in line. I hate the coilovers, but I like the ride height where it's at now. If I go with a reversed-eye, lowered Model A spring(Posies), I think it'll be too high. I just want to get rid of the coilovers...they stick out like a sore thumb on the back of this car. What do you think?
Should add, tall springs, not stock, need to be used to get torque tube clearance. I used a TT (model T truck) spring, 7 thick leaves have the same uninstalled spread as the '37 and should be the same on '40, You can use the '40 shackles but the T spring is 1/2" narrower, I used some bronze bushing material to saw off 1/4" thick washers to fill the space on the spring end. The T spring arch will fit the A crossmember. A good spring saddle fit and tight ubolts will keep the spring from breaking and crossmember from cracking. There is a fabric piece you can get from antique auto supplier for between the spring & crossmember . When ready for assembly, the spring should be 2" short and have to be spread that far to make up the shackle. Car weight will ideally put the shackles at a 45 degree angle.
The bells cannot be turned 180 degrees, spring mounts won't be right. Have to swap right side to left, left to right. Then the shim arrangement will be screwed, and have to get a shim kit and adjust the gear mesh by using shim gaskets on re-assembly. And that is a good time to check bearings, change the axle seals that can only be put in and taken out with the housing off. Shortening the torque tube & driveshaft is a whole nother project. Least when the component is somewhat re-done, you know you don't have to wonder about it.
Is that a '40 torque tube as well? Maybe I'll do it your way but with an extra stock Model A spring I have. Very good info...thanks for taking the time to type that all out. Cool little modified, by the way
I did modify the frame, 4" zee in front and kickup in the back. OK as long as you don't go rediculous IMO, I didn't want a low rider, I can drive anywhere without rough terrain concerns. For reliability I used the whole '37ish driveline, and stock cross steering box. Also any later frame X member can be used to get away from the ladder type frame. I had the center out of a '46 car put in backwards, but any down to '36 as far as I know. Better eplanation, some more pics here: http://s845.photobucket.com/albums/ab12/barrylm/
Isky's little roadster has the spring flipped. Not bad for a highschool kid in the 30's, to get a longer wheelbase and lower the car some automatically. I'd say go for it
I have a '40 rearend with open drive conversion on my 31. Some problems with torque. Bolts on radius rods have been bent. I am thinking about installing an additional rod; anyone has made this?
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