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1940 ford gas tank instalation ????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by titus, May 24, 2008.

  1. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,104

    titus
    Member

    so im working on a freinds 40 ford at home, and im sitting here at work thinking if i can get the gas tank in the car with out having to take the body off? does anyone know if this is possible?

    thanks

    jeff
     
  2. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    go's in and out no problemo
     
  3. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 5,751

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Slide the right side up and ove to the right as far as it will go. Raise the left and then center the tank. Piece of cake.
     
    40fordtudor and lothiandon1940 like this.
  4. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    It's tight, but it fits. I just did one last summer...what 325w said is the way ahead...
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.

  5. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,516

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    as all have said, they will go in and out but it is tight--if it's a repo tank sometimes the outside lips are a little wider than stock and need to be ground down about 1/8th inch. Watch the cage nuts and make sure they are clean before installation.
     
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  6. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,104

    titus
    Member

    thats whats i have heard, and i just wanted to confirm

    thanks

    TITUS
     
  7. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,461

    CharlieLed
    Member

    Dragging up an old thread but I am in a similar situation except I have an aftermarket TCI chassis. The frame is boxed and has three threaded holes on each side to mount the tank from the top. I can fit the tank in as suggested in previous posts but there is no access to the underside of the top frame rail to run a bolt up through the rail to the cage nut in the tank as would be done on a stock frame. I have made an enquiry at TCI but no response as of yet. Anybody with a boxed aftermarket chassis/frame got an answer foor this? Thanks...
     
  8. skidmarks
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,385

    skidmarks
    Member
    from USA

    line up the hole on top of the frame and drill larger holes in the bottom rail of the box tube. use allen socket bolts. alot of work but easier then pulling the body off.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  9. 283
    Joined: Aug 29, 2004
    Posts: 65

    283
    Member

    My brother did his last summer replaced the stock tank with a "Tanks" tank. The car has parallel leafs and he couldn't get the tank out. There was a little rust in the trunk so he cut it out mounted the tank and put in a new trunk floor. Knocked out two problems at once.
     

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  10. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,475

    okiedokie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ok

    I wonder if any of those holes line up with the stock 40 tank which has two caged nuts on the driver side and one on the passenger side? Wonder how many 40's with TCI frames are running around with the tanks mounted from above with no way to replace from below? Quite a few I bet. I believe I would do as skidmarks suggested and hope three of the frame holes line up. I would drill them to remove threads and make access hole from below. Then you could mount it as stock.
     
  11. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,475

    okiedokie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ok

    How did he coat the bottom of the new floor panel?
     
  12. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,461

    CharlieLed
    Member

    Here is a pic showing the back part of the TCI frame...there are 3 threaded holes on each side for mounting the tank. I have a new stainless steel tank from Bob Drake that came with the car...I am leaning towards mounting the tank before I set the body in place and then drilling holes in the trunk floor should I ever need to access the bolts after the car is completed. I think that if I take some good measurements that I could drill access holes fairly accurately at a later date. I WILL check the tank clearance though before going forward with this plan...I would hate to be ten years down the road and need to pull the tank and find that it won't clear the frame rails.
     

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  13. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,475

    okiedokie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ok

    Good idea to make sure it will drop out later. Might have to clearance the edges of the Drake tank from what I have heard. Doesn't the Drake tank have three caged nuts? Guess you will remove those and then will only need three access holes thru the trunk. Good plan.
     
  14. 283
    Joined: Aug 29, 2004
    Posts: 65

    283
    Member

    He coated it before he installed it and made the new floor a screw in panel in case it needs to come back out. I'm sure he sealed it all again from the top side.
     

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