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Projects 1940 Ford 4-door restoration project in Europe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cjtwigt, Jul 31, 2018.

  1. lewk
    Joined: Apr 8, 2011
    Posts: 735

    lewk
    Member
    from Mt

    Cool project! That frame is going to keep you busy! The frame on my 35 was bent so I drilled all the rivets and blew it apart to straighten it with a press. I bolted the frame back together and then re riveted it pulling one bolt at a time. I clamped the bucking bar on the back side of the rivet, heated the rivet shank with an oxy acetylene torch, and then hit it with a pneumatic riveter I got off of eBay. It was surplused out of Boing. It’s been a minute, but I think I got my rivets, bucking bar, and rivet setting tools from McMaster Carr. It was fun, not terribly hard and very loud.

    [​IMG]

    DE6D94B0-BCAF-4FA5-B9E3-93E36F78F3ED.jpeg

    971DCF3B-5999-4108-B483-889150FFD0A0.jpeg

    BD6CF4F5-1E5D-4148-ADE7-57F43D9C0161.jpeg


    I’ve still got some frame chunks sitting around.

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
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  2. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,666

    The 39 guy
    Member

    That is good info lewk ! A quick search on the internet showed me this page on the Mc Master Carr site. I have purchased from them several times over the years. Always had good service and decent prices. It is too bad they no longer send out their huge catalog to small operators like me.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/buck-rivets
     
    lewk likes this.
  3. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member


    Thank you very much for all the information Lewk!
    I have noticed that experience with hot riveting of steel rivets is hard to find on the Internet.

    Your rivets looks awesome. Have rust do a little work on those rivets and it will look like they are factory :)
    Do you have a build thread on the H.A.M.B. ?

    The riveter does not look like it is very heavy. Can you tell me what brand/type it is and what kind of compressor you use please? I'm hoping to find similar tools here in The Netherlands.

    Regards,
    Chris
     
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  4. lewk
    Joined: Apr 8, 2011
    Posts: 735

    lewk
    Member
    from Mt

    Here’s my build thread. It’s nothing special, I’m doing stuff the hard way on a tight budget in my spare time. '35 3 Window, Damn Right it was a Good Day
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/'35-3-Window,-Damn-Right-it-was-a-Good-Day.1015456/

    I think the rivet gun is an APT model 300. If I remember right, I paid $75 for it on eBay. Those things are EXPENSIVE new. I did a ton of research before I bought anything and it was kinda hard to find much. It seems like rivets live on airplanes these days. My compressor is a 5 hp craftsman 220 volt with a 15 gallon tank. I ran out of heat in the shank before I ran out of air. As long as the shank was red hot, I doesn’t take much force to rivet. It was fun! I look at old bridges in awe now. It must have been so much work riveting those together.

    2829E1ED-AF5A-4821-9DA2-F133513667E0.jpeg 634A0259-9E4B-4C91-B90D-F3C816F479E0.jpeg DA01FBB1-45BF-498C-878B-D57100408CE0.jpeg


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  5. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Thank you very much Lewk! I really appreciate all your detailed information.

    I like your build thread. You are taking on a very big challenge there. The car is in pretty bad shape. It is very inspiring. I can’t wait to see the rest of the build.

    Thank you!
    Chris


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  6. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Today I finished my custom made chassis table. I’m pleased with the result.

    I also measured the frame to make sure it is square before I bolted it to the table.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    I think the frame is square enough. So with frame secured to the operating table I’m entering the next phase.

    The rust damage is now at eye level and I see a lot of cutting and welding work. Especially at the front of the frame.




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  7. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,666

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Great job on the frame table! I am sure you will find it time and money well spent.
     
  8. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,798

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did chassis fabrication/assembly on a 30 inch wide by 6 foot long steel table for 20 years, ('55-'75) always said I'd make a frame jig one day.
    When I moved into the large shop in '76, it was time.
    Best move I ever made, 2" X 4" main frame, with 2 X 3 optional bolt-ons, 'as I needed them'.
    @CJT had the right idea, mine didn't 'rotisserie'. It will get changed, now that I'm 'older and stiffer'!
    Nothing equals a frame jig...
     
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  9. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 5,540

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice operating table. @Blue One 's favorite color. :cool:
     
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  10. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,240

    dirty old man
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Followed the 39Guy's link from the 40 Ford thread over here and have neglected all else till I read it all! I'm doubly interested here because I have a '40 Coupe and because my maternal Grandfather was a Dutchman!
    I can't claim to have built my '40, I bought it a few years ago already finished as I only lack a few weeks being 82 and just didn't have another build from scratch in my worn out old body!
    But if I was enough younger or in better condition, I seriously doubt that I could match the skills in metal fabrication and forming that I've seen on these pages! My biggest problem is that I spent too many years building cars for the dirt tracks of the Southeast US and also cars which were used in the transportation of shine whiskey and the materials to manufacture it.
    If the dirt cars looked good enough from the grandstand seats when you lined up on the track to start a race, and the whiskey haulers looked innocent enough to not attract the revenue agents attention, you were just fine if they were fast enough! Their life was short most of the time, so perfection wasn't too important a priority! LOL
    You've done a fantastic job and I look forward to following your progress in the build.
     
    The 39 guy likes this.
  11. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 41

    BFXJason

    Great job on the table Chris. It will make things MUCH easier!
     
  12. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Thank you Jason!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  13. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Today I decided that the front cross member has to be removed in order to be able to reach the rotten X-member.

    So I removed some 30 rivets in every conceivable way. Mostly drilling hammering and drivers and grinding.. I’m no longer a boy now.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    With the cross member out of the way I can now reach the rust holes on the inside.

    [​IMG]

    However it seems that the steering mount is spot welded to the top of the inner frame rail.

    [​IMG]

    It has also become clear that some anti rust measures were taken by a previous owner. There is some rubber/glue-like stuff in between the frame rails. I think I should remove the entire front X-member or the outer frame rail. To be continued..

    [​IMG]

    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  14. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 41

    BFXJason

    Yep - those things will make a man of ya! Working on mine for the first time was a real eye opener...
     
  15. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Today I started to repair the chassis. In order to repair the left inner rail at the front I decided to cut it out.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I used long crow bars to remove from the outer rail..

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    A solid 2 pounds of rust came out.

    At Koops in Middenmeer I had new steel bent to the original bending radius. Modern press brakes bend steel too sharp so I had deviced a way to extend the bend radius a bit. Instead of bending a single sheet of steel I had the press brake bend the target 2.5mm steel with a 2mm sheet on top of it. A kind of sandwich. This results in the right inner radius for the X member.

    [​IMG]

    Then I started making molds of 1mm sheet metal. I planned on using cardboard first but fellow HAMBer HiSpoke made me change my mind and use sheet steel. I marked all holes in the Xmember and its contours.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Then I started cutting up the old steel.

    [​IMG]


    And then I started making new repair sections using the newly bent steel. I will need several sections to repair the left front X member. Its rust follows bends in 2 dimensions so it is a small puzzle to keep it simple.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    The first repair section is coming along.

    IMG_6391.JPG





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  16. BFXJason
    Joined: Jan 2, 2018
    Posts: 41

    BFXJason

    Intense work but coming a long nice...

    I suppose dinner is postponed while working at the table...hehehe :)
     
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  17. cjtwigt
    Joined: Dec 23, 2017
    Posts: 87

    cjtwigt
    Member

    Hey Jason,

    Please don’t tell my wife. She was out while I used the table.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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