Projects 1940 firewall

i am working on a 1940 Ford Sedan and wanting to use a 327 but have heard I have to do some modifications to the firewall if you use an hei distributor does anyone know of a way around it MSD or anything else work without chopping up firewall

 

I had a 327 in a 40 Ford sedan and I didn't have to cut the firewall although I slightly modified the lip where the toe broad meets the firewall. HRP

 

you don't need to do anything to the firewall. I have a 283 tied to the factory 3 speed in my 39. just don't use an HEI. They are ugly as sin anyway. a factory points distributor will fit. its tight but it will fit. You can gain a little more space with A Mallory distributor as well. Just don't use an HEI and you will be fine.

 

Here's a pic of the 327 in my 40. An HEI would require some firewall modification.

Mick

 

Like Jason said, stay away from the HEI and you will be fine. I have a long waterpump 350 in my 40 with a stock firewall. Just modified the lip for the floor.

 

Thank you for all the help fellas much appreciated

 

Can someone explain the modification to the firewall lip? Have used sbc’s in four 40’s and never touched the firewall.

 

I have had 7 40's. I get new early 70's nova distributors non hei from napa for around 40 dollars and then I just install the petronix kit that fits in the dist with their stock looking coil so I have hei that fits and looks period correct

 

I could be wrong, but I think it depends on the bell housing or trans being used. in my 39 I used an old Wilcap adapter to go to the 39 3 speed and everything clears, but its tight. I could see a auto trans or GM bell housing being even tighter.

 

I’m wanting to use a t10 on mine

 

You'll just have to mock it all up and see. tons of people have done it. Once you put the T10 in with the motor and bell housing, make sure you have a shifter and all the shift rods handy. You'll see real fast that there is not much space between the X member's forward legs and the shifter linkage. Most end up getting hacked out, which is not the best way to do it. what ever you remove make sure you box it back together. Also another way to do it is to use 2 different trans adapters to make up the bell housing. If you use a Chevy to early ford 3 speed adapter and then put a flathead to gm 4 speed adapter on to that, you have adapters that make the bell housing, take up less space than the GM bell, and let you use all the original 40 Clutch linkage. works pretty well and you can find the adapters at swap meets pretty regularly, or just buy new ones.

 

I have had SBC with powerglide, TH350, 700R4, and currently 2004R in 40's and have never trimmed a lip. Curious as to what requires it?

 

Surely depends on how you mount the engine and trans. I've got a 348 in my 40, not a small engine by any means, with a T5, all cleared fine. (see avatar)

 

Flip,in my 36 ( which is very similar to a 40) no firewall mods were needed to slide the sbc in. I used Chassis Engineering mounts for the block and Muncie trans, didn't even have to notch the front cross member for the fuel pump like others had said. If you're going to run a T-10 you wont have to severely modify the X member, just box it out for shifter clearance. I didnt split my bones because the Muncie fit like the stock 36 trans. The only thing I did that I would do differently was I used a 3" core Walker radiator, it left me no room for a mechanical fan and I ended up putting a pusher in front of the radiator, you can see it through the grille and I think it looks like crap. Mitch

 

If you use the CE mounts you can pull them forward an extra 3/8" to 1/2" before you hit the front spring Xmember. Just be sure and do the extra math with the instruction sheet so your center to center motor mount spread is achieved.
You still cannot use the large HEI but it just gives that little extra clearance for a old style distributor base.

 

Use a Hurst style sbc to early ford mount

 

I have a Lakewood bell and just barely cleared the lip. ( the engine /trans sits 1/4-3/8 in ) lower than most. I had a t10 in my coupe and made a new mounting plate for the shifter to minimize the trimming. It moved the shifter forward and up. I used C.E. center cross member kit for the turbo 350 which should line up to the T10 mount IIRC. I'd post pix but I changed it over to a Richmond 5 speed.

 

There's plenty of room to run a small block with an HEI without modifying the firewall. I'm running a 350 with an HEI, short water pump with a mechanical 18" flex fan, shroud and the thickest radiator Walker makes. Also using a 1" spacer between the water pump and fan. You just need to make sure you place motor mounts far enough ahead to allow for clearance of the HEI.

 

Wow thanks. I would have never dreamed you could get any distributor for around fourty bucks nowadays. That is some refreshing news the way parts cost these days.