The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hemiken, Nov 13, 2012.
I like it....
Lincoln tail lights?
Yeah they look like 49-50 lincoln cosmopolitan.
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My 40 Desoto coupe that I will display my 56 Desoto 330 Hemi in some day.
40 DeSoto's are very cool looking cars.
[my 48' desoto coupe..slightly altered though..
bucks county here,,, loooks great,,, do you do the sonic cruise nite in morgantown ?
As of right now, this is how my '40 Chrysler looks. Very slow going as I am dealing with the VA for surgeries and disability. I am saving up for a frame stub and new suspension.
Looking at pictures, they look it, but can someone tell me if Chrysler and Plymouth frames were the same in '40? Looking at a couple different companies but they don't list Chrysler in that year range.
I've noticed the similarities also, but cannot say for certain if they're the same enough to be able to get a IFS system that was designed for a Ply to fit the Chrysler.
The Chrysler's UCA is forged 1-piece whereas the Ply is (I think) pressed-steel
How they are mounted at the pivot to the frame looks the same, tho'
And, the companies that I've checked out don't list a 40 Chrysler either.
I may go a different direction with the 40 Royal Coupe.
With a lot of help from Mark Basile on the HAMB, one plan is to use '86 Jag components. Already made some new LCA mounting plate assemblies. Just trying to get the geometry.
Let me know what you find out. I'm not to the point of not being able to change directions, (again).
I'm looking into something like this. With frame stub instead of using the original front section. The front crossmember in mine causes clearance issues with my 383 including one section that I had to notch and box to clear my oil pump housing.
I've sent emails to a few companies requesting information, but haven't gotten any replies. For the price, I don't want a maybe.
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I put a 383, power rack, shock mounts, and discs into my '38 Chrysler. You are right about the oil pump housing and notching/boxing the original cross member, but it all fit & work, and ultimately is probably less work than the stub.
Nicely done. Are you boxing the frame for a filter, or are you going to run a remote filter? I'd have to recess my firewall 3" and put a hump in the floor just to set my engine back far enough to get a small filter on. I set mine up as far back as I could without firewall/floor work. Even there, if I had run a standard w/p, it would have been through the radiator.
I went out and did some measuring by using a plum bob and string then marking the floor. The measurements were the same as the ones listed for the plymouth frame alignment. So it looks like it will work.
Notching and boxing the frame has worked. Honestly, it was easy and my car is fun to drive, but it can be better. So, I think I will take on the task of the front sub with all new suspension and a recessed firewall. Time to start saving....
Yep, remote filter. The filter is on the right side of the firewall in the pic below. Milodon makes an oil pump cover that was crucial for getting it all to fit.
I used a standard water pump, but (obviously) an electric fan. The radiator is in the stock location, and the firewall is not altered at all. My Chrysler is a "Royal" so it came with the small 6. I think it should be the same distance between the firewall and radiator as yours.
this info may help, i have a moog front suspension chart, it covers ply/dodge/chry/desoto, im researching it because i have a set of N.O.S. moog upper control arms im going to sell,,and wanted to make sure my info was correct as to what they fit,,,these arms convert to the 1941 and newer upper outer pin,, moog chart is saying 1939/40 ply, 1939/40 dodge 1940 only desoto/1940 only chrysler and wont fit a 7 passenger ,,,, so im assuming the frames are all the same in the front clip area,,,
i didnt clip my 40 dodge i have a disc brake conversion, a fat man cavilere rack and pinion conversion and moved the upper shock mount to the frame,and fat man dropped spindles,, it rides great ,,,first and second gen dakotas frame stub is said to fit these cars pretty well,,,
Thanks for the info. The diagram I compared to was for the 40 Plymouth. Frame and body mount distances were almost identical, minor differences in the 1/32-3/32" range, but those are probably goofs on my part since I did the measurements with a full bodied chassis using a drop line.
I have an Omni R&P on a bolt in cradle that I built, relocated shock mounts, and the springs were shortened when I bought it (nice rake since I took the drop blocks out when I put in a 8.75").
Really, the only thing I don't look forward to is building another set of headers, but it would give me a chance to run them inside the rails.
my dodge had cut front coils when i bought the car,,, i replaced them with full size new coils from eaton, and fat man dropped spindles,,has a cavilere rack, and posies rear lowering leafs,,,it rode hard with the cut front coils,,
Anybody know anything about 46-48 desoto convertibles? Please pm me....
66Fish.....gidday from Oz..........I used a pair of those MOOG cast steel upper arms on my 1940 Oz Dodge when I rebuilt/hot-rodded it in the early 70's......as my car is essentially a 1940 Plymouth anyway they fit straight on where the original 1940 upper arms went but are a much better, stronger design and use standard 1941 to 1954 Dodge & Plymouth inner/outer pins and bushes......as far as I am aware they fit 1940-1954 Dodge & Plymouth, maybe 55/56 also.......they MAY fit Desoto & Chrysler 6 cylinder cars but I wouldn't know for certain...any mopar 7 passenger stuff is different again.......andyd
Rear Posies reversed eye springs,3" blocks. Front 3"Fatman dropped spindles,cut 1 coil
Nice car. Great stance. What did you do to lower it?
Any details that you'd like to share? Another photo or two?
Have you looked at the Jag IFS ? Likes? Dis-likes?
I finally got my 40 Windsor on the road. It runs great. It has discs up front now and stops great. I just got a new radiator, fan and am waiting on a new water pump. It runs at 240...I am trying to remedy that. It is extremely solid, and the weak spot on it is the dash. I am going to have to figure something out about that. All the Bakelite pieces are gone. The car sat in the desert for 25 years neglected after having paint, interior and a motor rebuild in the mid 80's. I am keeping the 242 flathead 6 and the 3speed o/d trans in her. I took it on the freeway and she cruised at 70mph. She is a keeper.
Re the '40 above:
A while back there was someone repopping the Bakelite dash pieces. He had an ad in the Walter P Chrysler (WPC) club newsletter.
Thanks for the heads up. I will research that, much appreciated.
Here's mine ol'48; It's mostly stock apart the B&W R10 overdrive unit installed behind the stock 3speed fluid drive. Stance dropped moderate (ca. 2") by blocks & cut coils.
The OD came from salvaged 1954 Savoy and is in excellent condition. The OD really upgraded the old D24 to a cruiser.
Full custom 1950 Chrysler from my home town; It was originally 4D sedan.
Lot's of hand crafted details by owner/builder, including grille & front bumber.
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