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Projects 1939 Pontiac 2 Door Sedan Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeremy Morrison, Feb 18, 2017.

  1. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Hello all, I have been slacking to post my 39 Pontiac from when I got it to what I've done so far. Mostly life and lack of time gets in the way. Thought I would share some photos and my ideas, then see what everyone has for advice/suggestions as I go as this is my first build.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Those are some pictures from the past year of the little work I have gotten done. I guess that's what is to be expected when having sold a house, bought a house, and moved in between temporarily have the car stored at a buddies for a couple months.

    The car runs great, and will move under its own power. It is 98% complete, and I have extras of many parts. A part of me wants to leave it original as the old flathead 6 is such a cool motor, however is very under powered and unreliable. I picked up a pontiac 400 to put in it, but haven't got myself to the point of taking out the old motor yet. So I have been picking away at the body as I enjoy doing bodywork, and know exactly how I want it. Biggest thing is the deep rust pits, and the rear panel below the trunk is roached, so saving to get a new panel to weld in. The rear fenders are as well reached, mainly where they mount to the body, which is pretty normal from all I have seen. So I will have to get creative or find replacements/used ones which is tuff for the old pontiacs.

    You can see from the pictures that the frame has the shock towers running through the frame, so a front stub will need to be welded in as there is no kits to fit it. I have seen another guy who got some Fatman drop spindles and then made new shock towers, and adapted the front end how he wanted it, which may be the way I go as I do not have the skills to graf on a front stub, or the heart to butcher the original frame.

    So that's where I am at for now, I plan to keep picking away at the rust and sheet metal work until I decide what I am going to do for sure. Seems financialy cheaper to update it though to a newer running gear, which would be more enjoyable to drive and reliable.

    Let me know what you think, and what advice you have!

    Thanks for checking it out!

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  2. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    If I did keep the front frame I would definitely paint it black instead of that ford blue;).....:D
    I recently looked at a 40 buick sedan that resembles your pontiac a lot but it supprisingly has coils in the back, closed driveline etc. and lots of rust so I passed for now anyway.
     
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  3. Barn Hunter
    Joined: Feb 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,515

    Barn Hunter
    Member

    Cool project. Especially like the grille.
     
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  4. kbgreen
    Joined: Jan 12, 2014
    Posts: 341

    kbgreen
    Member
    1. Georgia Hambers

    Thanks for your post. You can actually help me out. I see the electric sander, I think I am in the same boat with a low powered compressor. How is that sander working? On your primer, are you using an epoxy primer? Any prep in the work area to control overspray?

    I've got a small garage, small compressor but big ideas like yours. I appreciate your time to share the details.
     
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  5. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,310

    Toqwik
    Member

    Being your first build, before I would do a subframe I would try to find something with the same width and wheelbase as yours and do a frame swap. I know my first one was done with crappy tools, a compressor build from a GM a/c compressor with a scuba tank, etc. it was no beauty queen but I was proud of it. The number one reason projects never get done is people try to tear them down to the bare minimum and build them back. For what you can sell the running motor, trans, rear and frame for you could probably find a GM donor for the same money. Get it on the road and have fun. Good luck with your project and I look forward to your progress pictures.


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  6. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Haha, yes agreed! The previous owner had the body off and used that blue rust inhibitor paint on it. My thoughts exactly of it being ford blue!!

    The 40 buick is really similar, front clip is the biggest difference, definitely cool cars.

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  7. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Yeah, I have multiple sanders, including an awesome Ingersoll rand da sander however my compressor like you stated can't keep up with it. Been saving for a new one, but other demand keep getting into my garage fund.

    The random orbits work good for smoothing and removing old paint. I have a makita, a bosch, and a cheap skill one. The makita by far is my favorite, the Bosch is my second, they are also both variable speed.

    If you are working at stripping off old paint and rust to get to bare metal, my new favorite is the rust and paint removing disks that will attach to you angle grinder. So quick, in comparison, leaves a smooth finish and little effort. To get through heavy rust spots, you can also get a sanding disk for the grinder and it rips right through the rust to bare metal.

    I am just spraying on an epoxy primer as I go to prevent new surface rust. Once I have the main shell how I want it, I will sand that down then top the epoxy primer with a high build, block it, then paint.

    For over spray, my wife does furniture work so she is always painting too[​IMG]. You can kind of see an example on the far right of that pic, What we do to keep over spray off each other's projects is just cheap tarps wired to the ceiling. I have a spool of old wire, from an underground dog fence I use to hang it to the ceiling, then I can slide the tarps so they are out of the way when I am done.

    Let me know if you have any other questions! Definitely learning as I go

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  8. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    I appreciate the reply and incite. I have had doing a frame swap cross my mind, however never thought to much into it. After reading your reply, I have put almost a whole day of thought into it and am starting to like the idea more and more. I have not had a chance to measure, but from reading online have found it to be about a 115" wheel base. I also found a website roadkillcustoms.com that referances vehicles by wheelbase, which is pretty cool. What has been the biggest obstacles you have found when doing a frame swap? Thank you!

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  9. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,312

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    Looks like a neat car to build.
     
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  10. The Pontiac body shell has a lot in common with Chevys of the same vintage. Are Pontiac rear fenders different from Chevy? If they are, would easier to find Chevy fenders be close enough to get by with? I don't know, I'm a Ford guy, just asking. '39 Pontiac gets my vote for the best-looking GM car of the '30s, although I do like the styling of '37 and '39 Chevys a lot.
     
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  11. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Your exactly right, the body's for the Chevy, pontiac, olds, and buicks where all built by fisher body and not much differences besides the front clips. The chassis on the Chevy is completely different, the bop's are all simular. From what I have found in pictures the rear fenders seem to be the same between them, however I cannot completly confirm. Chevs of the 40's has fiberglass replacements for the Chevs, but I may hold out and see if I can find originals. I guess I need to confirm they will fit, or easily modified to be.

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  12. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,188

    55chieftain
    Member

    Hi, great project and nice to see your going to stay with Pontiac power. I think in your subframe deal may want to look into a rear steer setup. Your suspension is all the way up front almost to the edge of the frame and a front steer won't work. I doubt you will find a full frame that will work. The only one that comes to mind is the gm f and x body subframe. 67-69 camero firebird or 68-74 nova.
     
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  13. southerncad
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 958

    southerncad
    Member

    When I built my "39 Poncho, I rebuilt the front end, instead of a clip and much easier than a frame swap:eek: all you need to do then is upgrade the brakes....also don't forget when getting body parts that the 8 cylinder cars are larger bodies than the 6's.
     
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  14. cshades
    Joined: Sep 2, 2011
    Posts: 557

    cshades
    Member
    from wi

    I have a friend that is building one of these, he used a 69 firebird stub on it. After it was done he commented that it probably wasn't the best choice in the end. It was too wide and had to be narrowed to get the track correct. After spending all that time and then rebuilding the suspension, he would been farther ahead with something aftermarket that was the correct width and new.
     
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  15. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,915

    BJR
    Member

    Don't try a frame swap, there are lots unfinished projects laying around because of a failed frame swap. Rebuild the stock front end, Kanter may have the needed parts, then add disc brakes and done.
     
  16. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,188

    55chieftain
    Member

    California Pontiac Restoration has a lot of parts for early Pontiacs
     
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  17. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,144

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    ponti stuff 001.JPG ponti stuff 007.JPG ponti stuff 005.JPG ponti stuff 009.JPG ponti stuff 001.JPG [ IMG_5851.jpg I did a clip on my 40 Pontiac coupe and used a 1978 Elcamino clip. The width works good and it came out great. A rear steer would be easier but it works and that is what I had. Gary
     
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  18. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    NO FRAME SWAPS. # 1 way to screw up an old car IMHO. Might be alright done right but that would be a lot of work, most times it's done because it's "EZ" and it shows.
    I built a 39 Pontiac like yours a few years ago for a customer. It had a Mustang II front suspension in it, took a little more fab work on the frame rails and a universal cross member ( I don;t believe anyone sells a kit for them) but it worked out well. Rear we used a 69 Mustang 9" on rebuilt stock springs. 454 with a 700r. Been on the road 7 years, been a great car.
     
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  19. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Looks great Gary! Thank you for sharing the pictures for a visual, and your insight!

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  20. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    No frame swap it is! I have looked all over the Web for kits, and does not seem to be any for them as you stated. I have thought about doing what you stated, probably one of the easier ways to go.

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  21. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Thank you for your feedback, frame swap is outta the question with the feedback I have received. There is a guy on YouTube with a 39 pontiac I have spoke to him a few times. He put Fatman drop spindles on it, converted to disk brakes, and power steering. Honestly price seems to be reasonable that route too. Kanter has been the only place to have stock parts for that car.

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  22. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Awesome, thank you for your feedback. What motor did you put in yours, and when you rebuilt the front end, did you upgrade to power steering?

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  23. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    Yeah, definitely wanna keep it all Pontiac! I appreciate the insight and feedback, I honestly never put a thought to having front or rear steer, but totally makes sense. Thank you for the heads up.

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  24. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 737

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Yeah money and time would be better spent elsewhere if you've already got something to work with.

    That being said I do have a 69 Camaro front clip on my 37. The person who did the swap seemed to do a decent job. The track width seemed to be ok when I threw the fenders on for a test fit. So if you're considering it, Camaro subframe may work alright. Haven't finished putting the car together to see what other issues arise though lol

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  25. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,802

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    I agree with not swapping the frame.

    If you want a killer IFS, there are some HAMB threads on swapping in a Jaguar XJ6 / XJ12 / XJ-S front end into almost anything with frame rails.

    Jag IFS units mount easily, are simple to rebuild, and have killer disk brakes. Plus, rack and pinion power steering. They are available for scrap value, too.

    If you really want to get crazy, use a Jaguar IRS from the same vehicles. Dana 44, inboard disks, limited slip in all V12 models, and mounts with 4 bolts in the center of a flat panel crossmember right above the unit (no trailing arms needed if solid mounted). There are threads on them here, too.
     
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  26. bubbarawn
    Joined: Mar 8, 2009
    Posts: 5

    bubbarawn
    Member

    FB_IMG_1486851518390.jpg Cool project I picked a 37 up last year have been tinkering at it. Mines all stock except 68 gm straight6 and 3 speed auto FB_IMG_1474201917202.jpg FB_IMG_1474201917202.jpg FB_IMG_1486851479603.jpg
     
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  27. southerncad
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 958

    southerncad
    Member

    Didn't upgrade to P/S just adjusted the box and lubed everything well, put a 350 pontiac & 350 turbo in is with a 70's Cutlass rear end. Good lookin' ride, & keep the pics coming.
     
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  28. mrhp
    Joined: Nov 19, 2006
    Posts: 236

    mrhp
    Member
    from MICHIGAN

    Did a 40 Pontiac coupe years ago with a nova front frame. Piece of cake, and rode and drove like a dream with power steer and front disc brakes. Would do again.
     
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  29. Jeremy Morrison
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 21

    Jeremy Morrison

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Haven't gotten to much done as of late. Stripped the paint off the door and have been wire wheeling the rust pits. Kinda got frustrated with them as the car is covered in them. Nothing rotted through, but tedious work to get all the rust out of the pits. Anyone have suggestions, or should I just plan on saving to have the car blasted?

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  30. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 737

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    You can try metal conditioner. You apply the chemical and wash/ wipe off. It may not remove everything, but given it's washed off with water and a rag, it may help with getting inside the pits


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