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Technical 1939 Mercury Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by swissmike, Jun 28, 2015.

  1. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Welded the inner door post structure solid.
    Then the outer..

    [​IMG]




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  2. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Before welding in the quarter patch panel, I decided to fix the wheel well. This way it will be solid on both sides when I weld in the panel.

    [​IMG]

    The patch has some crown so I used the plastic mallet on the sandbag and followed up with my new English wheel. It's the bench top Eastwood unit and it's nicely made and sturdy and doesn't take up a lot if space in the shop. The pic is out of order, but I wanted to show the finished patch.

    [​IMG]

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  3. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Making the corner piece from the quarter to the wheel well, by using a couple of inches cut off from the new quarter panel.

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    By now the outer contour needs a little tweaking..

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  4. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Welded and trimmed

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    The rotted panel behind the patch is cut out and the new piece is scribed from the back side with the correct outline.

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    Welded in place.

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    Ready to cut the quarter panel and install the new metal.


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  5. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,105

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    I love seeing this kind of work. It is this kind of dedication that will keep your ride on the road long after others have fallen apart from neglect.
     
  6. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Patch panel welded in. The casual observer might notice a second cut line half way through the panel. This is what happens if you start cutting a the wrong scribe line, followed by a sickening feeling in the stomach, ha...

    Now on to the wheel wells. The lower couple of inches, especially where the spot weld with the floor pan are, is rotted pretty badly, so patches are cut and get a flange with the bead roller.

    [​IMG]


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  7. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Welded in as well. All the patches are 18 Ga and the difference in thickness between the old metal and the patches makes it easy to burn through. I welded from the inside, where the surface was cleaner.

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    The last 10" or so of the new patch will be cut off again as it is not wide enough to cover all the rot.

    After some more grinding and massaging. It came out ok. It will still need a little more attention, but good enough to move on.

    [​IMG]





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  8. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    This is the rear corner, which needs complete replacement. It has a reverse curve to make it more interesting ...

    I think I will do a corner piece with maybe 1/2" legs similar to the wheel well again, then do the rear panel and only then go back and finish the inside of the wheel well. Project for next week.


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    Last edited: Jul 24, 2016
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  9. Hansa1100
    Joined: Jun 7, 2007
    Posts: 97

    Hansa1100
    Member
    from Norway

    Loving this thread, exactly the things I need to address on my own car. With the same tools...
     
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  10. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Corner piece made on shrinker and stretcher.

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    Cutting out the rotted section after tacking the corner

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    Shaping the replacement panel

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    Tacked in place

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  11. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    This piece had some rust where the trunk floor was spot welded, as well as where the bumper brackets hit as a result from the body settling over the frame due to the rusted out body mounts.
    There is quite a bit of lead, possibly from the factory.

    I made a paper template and shaped the flange for the bumper slot first, then tarted shaping the panel little by little.

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    After I had the shape close, I tacked it on top and used a thin cut off wheel to cut through both layers

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    Welded in. Still needs a little hammer and dolly work to get the flow just right.

    [​IMG]


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  12. FlatJan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2013
    Posts: 279

    FlatJan

    incredible.. tried myself some metal shaping and it's not as easy as you make it look.
    keep up the great work (weiter so)!!
     
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  13. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,155

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Excellent work as always! I like your one area at a time approach as you work your way around the car.
     
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  14. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Thanks! Doing one area at a time greatly reduces the risk ending up way off dimensionally when doing a complex part, without making fancy templates and bucks IMO.


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  15. barry mazza
    Joined: May 18, 2006
    Posts: 130

    barry mazza
    Member

    Well Mike have been watching your progress and I must say you are doing a remarkable job of it, really with out the use of heavy duty metal forming tools, using your head to devise ways to get the job done, I say you have really done a great job, your skill is really showing my friend and I hope you continue to make good progress as winter comes to us and things cool down in the garage...Barry
     
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  16. stinkity stoink
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 204

    stinkity stoink
    Member
    from new jersey

  17. barobert
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 104

    barobert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hallo Mike
    Das gseht würkläch guät us wi das hesch gmacht. Fahrsch im Septämber de scho mit äm Merc vor?

    Bis gly
    Nöru
     
  18. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Thanks Barry, very much appreciated!

    Nöru: Geduld, das wird nu chli ga..



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    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
  19. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Made some progress in the meantime and the second side went easier thanks to the templates I had and what I had learned.

    First was the toolbox, which had some small holes and rust from sitting water.

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    I replaced the bottom a few inches into the curvature in the rear.

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    I meant to save the front of the box, but ended up replacing it as well when I ripped off the seam trying to separate the panels.

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  20. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Other corner..

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    Tacking the replacement on top and cutting through both...

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    I think this area was a factory spot weld which was recessed and filled with lead. It was mangled by the bumper irons when the body settled and I patched both sides.

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  21. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Back end is done...

    [​IMG]

    Moving on to A-pillar. Bottom is completely gone and I'm glad for the templates I made on the first side.

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    Inner structure had to be built as well

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    Forgot to take a pic from the outside after I was done.


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  22. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Bottom of B post. This took multiple individual 90 degree profile pieces shaped with shrinker and stretcher, then welded together. I usually try not to weld along corner edges, but made an exception and welded from both sides before grinding.

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    Finished, ready for the replacement quarter panel once I replace the rear edge by the fender.

    [​IMG]


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    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
  23. Loving all your progress. As soon as the smoke clears, I will take a ride down. Will bring some coffee from IKEA :)
     
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  24. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    One more from the finished cowl area. Still needs the bottom caged fender nut welded in.

    [​IMG]




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  25. MIKE STEWART
    Joined: Aug 23, 2016
    Posts: 273

    MIKE STEWART

    nice info - thanks for posting!
     
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  26. Just found this, and need to do most of the same, with much less skills! Swissmike, how are you welding this? I've got an old mig welder, but I don't know what's available, nowadays! Everything you've done looks great...thanks for sharing!
     
  27. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Everything is MIG welded. I have a 220v Hobart Handler, but even a 110 unit will do for sheet metal and most fabrication on a car. I use .023" wire for sheet metal (18 gauge steel for all body and floor panels). Ford used 19 gauge, but it's hard to get except special order at most metal supply places. 18 is more forgiving to work with than 20, which is too flimsy IMO. Just start with simple parts and keep practicing.


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  28. Bruce A Lyke
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,249

    Bruce A Lyke
    Member

     
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  29. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    I replaced the corner edge on the left first, then cut the previously made panel to fit. I do it in several steps, starting with one edge, then overlaying again, tacking if necessary, then moving on the the next edge. With every edge the panel will fit better and result in a better fit.
    I use the thin 3/64" cut off wheels after tacking if I feel I don't have enough gap between the panels.

    [​IMG]




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    Last edited: Sep 13, 2016
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  30. CURSED GEARS
    Joined: Jul 21, 2016
    Posts: 149

    CURSED GEARS
    Member

    Love this thread. If I had a fifth of your talent, I would be 100 percent better! Keep it up, good stuff.
     
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