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Technical 1939 Mercury Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by swissmike, Jun 28, 2015.

  1. Is that a 5 window Coupe, with the roof whacked off???
    Not for the faint of heart.
    Than again, none of this old car shit is.
    Cool project
    Brother Mike has Mad Skills
     
    swissmike likes this.
  2. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 682

    oliver westlund
    Member

    awesome project, great metsl work! im taking notes!
     
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  3. Ed Angel
    Joined: Nov 17, 2015
    Posts: 121

    Ed Angel

    It’s a 1936 Club cabriolet


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  4. quickrack-alan
    Joined: Dec 25, 2012
    Posts: 66

    quickrack-alan
    Member
    from Ireland

    Seriously impressive work and you still have to actually Hot-rod the thing!
    Wow!
     
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  5. Toyjunky
    Joined: Jan 11, 2014
    Posts: 10

    Toyjunky
    Member
    from Gilroy,Ca.

    Thanks for sharing, great workmanship !!!
     
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  6. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    Hey I recognize that car!
    Love to see it back on the road again.
    I wonder if it ever spent time with mine on the streets of Fairbanks.
    [​IMG]


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  7. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    I’m back for more..

    I seam sealed the body and all floor joint and subrails using 3m products (will post later).

    I decided to strip the frame and suspension parts. I made an axle puller for the rear drums but the first iteration deformed like taffy due to the insufficient thickness of the bottom flange (had suspected as much but gave it a try). Had success after making a 3/8” flange which was welded from both the inside and outside.

    [​IMG]

    I also bought a NOS axle knocker, basically an oversized Acorn nut which bottoms out on the axle and can then be hit with a sledge to break the bond between axle and hub.
    After a couple of whacks the puller made short work of it.

    [​IMG]

    The axle bolts / perches were extremely stubborn and repeated heating, penetrating oil,etc. only let me remove one nut with the impact wrench. The second ended up rounded and mangled beyond hope. I ended up chiseling out little pieces and cutting the perch flush. More heating and banging finally drove the perch out. With the first perch out I could rotate the axle to break the bond in the radius rod. But it took a come along - no chance by hand. Now the perch still held to the axle, but some creative hammer work finally got it out.

    [​IMG]

    Everything was pretty crusty, but the cotter pins were the worst part of getting everything unbolted.

    The brake pedal assembly had about 1/4” of hardened grease and dirt buildup, but cleaned up nicely with the wire wheel.

    [​IMG]

    The frame mostly only has surface rust, except where the rubber ball of the front radius rod sits in the crossmember. The rubber trapped moisture and partially rusted out the cup. I will remove the entire plate prior to sandblasting and replace the cup.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2019
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  8. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    I was pleasantly surprised that the rear axle bearing races and axle tapers are in nice shape the axles rotate freely.

    I am still debating whether to drop the original axle or to go with a new one. Anybody have any recommendations? I am considering Kohler Kustom or Sid’s.

    https://www.droppedaxles.com/axles



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  9. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Found a nice 40 dash which I will use....


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  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,089

    alchemy
    Member

    Drop the original axle. Kohler does good work, I've had him drop an axle of mine.
     
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  11. Just found this thread and spent the last few hours reading through it. Inspiring, great work and very well documented!
     
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  12. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Lines, brEad, Shadow Creek and 3 others like this.
  13. Lines
    Joined: Jun 11, 2018
    Posts: 170

    Lines
    Member
    from Germany

    Loopking good. Nice to see how you solved the door gaps.
     
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  14. 392
    Joined: Feb 27, 2007
    Posts: 897

    392
    Member

    Great work and your eye for details show.
     
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  15. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Removed the spacer from the rear crossmember.

    [​IMG]

    Interesting to see that Ford used their own version of pop rivets.
    [​IMG]

    The problem area is the socket of the wishbone, where water accumulated between the rubber ball and the metal and rusted out the metal.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I removed the crossmember plate to fix the rust through an d found the underlying socket to be rusted as well. I got a model A stamped cap, but it uses a larger 2.2” rubber ball, compared to the 39/40 Merc with two diameters.
    I decided to try to use the model A cap inside the frame, and make a new thicker crossmember plate to take up the space. The problem is obviously how to make a socket to reduce the diameter from 2.17” to 1.8” of the Merc rubber ball.

    I had a 3/16” plate which is the right thickness, but without a BIG press or forge there is no easy way to shape the cup.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    I pie cut the area to be able to hammer small section against the stamped piece. I made a separate piece for the center and started tracking everything in place. Now I wouldn’t have done this if it were not just a spacer. The overall thickness of the cup will be 3/8”, about double the stock thickness, once the model A cup is welded in place. There will be a lot of welding and grinding. But I’ll give it a try. It’s only metal...




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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
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  16. Grandadeo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 777

    Grandadeo
    Member

    Mike, glad you took time off from the Merc build to join us at the Black Dog yesterday. 20190302_111812.jpg
     
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  17. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Thanks, Lee!


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  18. Black Clover Custom
    Joined: Dec 20, 2014
    Posts: 499

    Black Clover Custom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice work on your car!
    So maybe heating it up with a torch... and getting a ball from a trailer hitch/reciever in the right size and hammer that down on the plate would save the grinding time. Just a thought.
     
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  19. 59Tele
    Joined: Feb 5, 2016
    Posts: 128

    59Tele

    What about using a piece of a trailer hitch that fits over the ball?
     
  20. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Good ideas, but I don’t have a hitch laying around. I found metal places which make half spheres, but only in .120“ thickness.


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  21. 40two
    Joined: Feb 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,684

    40two
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    fantastic work, Mike, a pleasure to watch your thread.

    Cheers, Carsten
     
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  22. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Grinding and welding inside and outside...
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    After cutting out the stock inner socket, fabricating the new piece using the model a cap.



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  23. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The bolt pattern of the Merc cap is smaller so the holes had to be filled and redrilled. I temporarily tacked the inner and outer pieces together to make sure everything is lined up.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Welding in the nuts and using weld through primer before welding the inner plate in place.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I added slots in the top plate to bend the sides down so they contact the crossmember. The two vertical pieces are about 1/8” taller than the crossmember. I suspect this was done to register the stock plate side to side during assembly. Anyway, I wanted to keep the socket at the same height so I will bend the ends down before welding the plate in place. I will use JB weld to fill any irregularities and gaps between inner and outer socket and to keep rust from forming.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


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  24. CURSED GEARS
    Joined: Jul 21, 2016
    Posts: 146

    CURSED GEARS
    Member

    Pretty smart repair on that cup, but I would expect no less from you.
     
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  25. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Thanks but I probably would do it differently now. This was a total overkill, but once I dipped my toe in it I had to go down that road. The top plate would be plenty strong by itself and I should have just turned a half sphere on the lathe and welded it in the plate and be done. Unfortunately the lathe at my work was just moved and has no power at the moment.


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  26. Amazing repair on that cup! It looks original. Very nicely done.
     
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  27. Andy Kohler does killer work, and is the go to guy on the east coast. He does beautiful work.
     
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  28. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Final fitment; applying some jB weld to fill any remaining voids between the spheres and clamping in place. I will weld the plate solid after cure.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




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  29. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Moving on to popping some frame rivets where rust developed between x member and frame rail at low spots on the lower rail.

    I drilled out the rivets and use an HF oscillating tool with flat carbide burr while keeping a gap open using a chisel and whatever I had laying around, working on small increments.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After getting all loose rust out I used metal prep to neutralize the remaining rust and prepare for Por15 application next week.

    Letting everything dry out now...
    [​IMG]

    Starting to straighten the frame rails and crossmember using whatever fits in addition to the trusty BFH and dolly.

    [​IMG]

    I will use 3/8” carriage bolts with the heads slightly ground down to mimic the stock rivets. Thought about welding the frame and x member along the seam but decided against. Don’t want to trap water in the seam and also don’t want to locally change the springiness of the frame. There are cracks in the frame where the rear lever arm shocks were mounted. Work hardening of the frame eventually led to material failure. Will be easy to fix, but don’t want to provoke a similar result by welding in boxing plate/ x member.


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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    brEad and The 39 guy like this.
  30. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,269

    swissmike
    Member

    Duplicate post deleted...
     

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