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Projects 1938 Chevrolet Pepsi Truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by the metalsurgeon, Jan 15, 2012.

  1. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    thanks guys much appreciated...

    Wanted 36 3 or 5 window coupe body shell or parts
     
  2. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Hi metal surgeon
    Would u be able to advise?
    What would you do to fix these little bumps? or what can i do in my garage to remedy?
    Also what do u do on the underneath sides?
     

    Attached Files:

  3. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,866

    CGkidd
    Member

    Damn that is some awesome work.
     
  4. matt mcnamara
    Joined: Mar 9, 2012
    Posts: 6

    matt mcnamara
    Member
    from The UP

    How long did it take you to complete that task, just out of curiosity?
     
  5. JYPSEA
    Joined: Dec 11, 2007
    Posts: 193

    JYPSEA
    Member
    from Florida

    You should change your name to Metal Genius.
     
  6. Big Nick
    Joined: Sep 7, 2005
    Posts: 847

    Big Nick
    Member

    Down right amazing and very inspirational! Thank you for taking the time to post up all these pictures!
     
  7. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    Media blast first then re access



    Wanted Ford 36 3 or 5 window coupe
     
  8. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    We did that and got all these little bumps about the size of the ends of my fingers
    Really did not know what next? So we primered them
    Once again pondering what to do?
    cold hammer them out or heat?
     
  9. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    no heat. you need a spoon,dollies and a flat file

    wanted 1936 Ford 3 window or 5 coupe
     
  10. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    What size would you recommend? It seems that the local supply shop has "small" sizes. I do not think it would work with 1936 steel maybe the newer years.
    I would like to learn this but no locals I know of? Anybody?
     
  11. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver


    i make my own spoons from old files.Not sure what you mean by 'small' sizes .Typically old panels are pressed out of 19 swg material thickness.New cars are 22 swg, thinner material.I use 18 swg pretty much for everything,doors ,roof skins etc

    wanted 3 or 5 window 36 ford
     
  12. BAILEIGH INC
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,623

    BAILEIGH INC
    Alliance Vendor

  13. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    Updates on truck.Running boards re designed and modified.Cab valance changed from bolt in to one piece with the cab.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. blue57ford
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 490

    blue57ford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    WOW! Incredible work.
     
  15. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

  16. Very nice work!
     
  17. BAILEIGH INC
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,623

    BAILEIGH INC
    Alliance Vendor


    x2 :cool:
     
  18. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Hi Metal Surgeon

    I need to fix/replace my lower cowls as well. Would you be able to give me the dims of the little detail (pointed arrow?) like you did.
    [​IMG]
    that seems to be on the lower cowl area. You can see in this pic someone patched over it.

    [​IMG]

    I can understand if your to busy. Can anyone else help?
     
  19. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Hi Jon

    Where did you place the battery?
    Any pics?
     
  20. Beautiful work as always Jon.

    I have been thinking of doing the same thing with my cab valance(never knew what it was called) I can't tell for sure in your pictures but did you leave the seams (where the door line runs into this panel) on the outside. I was considering welding those up as well but worry that with the two piece design of the floor near the front of the door opening might flex too much in that area to weld the front seam up solid. Any thoughts?
     
  21. jesse1980
    Joined: Aug 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,355

    jesse1980
    Member

    That's a cool job you have for sure. The truck l
     
  22. Zoomzoooie
    Joined: Feb 10, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Zoomzoooie
    Member
    from BC Canada

    What metal wizardry!

    I too have a 1938 Chevy pickup I am slowly working on. Luckly mine is much better shape, but for a few parts needing a little repair. The worst however is a very badly rust pitted rear fender with some metal missing. I will trying to replace the worst of it myself, learning as I go. I will be electroliticly removing the rust to start with once the weather is warm enough. I will be using hand tools since I don't have the budget or space for larger tools.

    Following along on this tread has help emmensely! Just seeing what is possible gives me ambition to try to repair my fender.

    I have one question though.
    I notice some of your panels are baddly pitted too. I wanted to use as little poly filler as possible on my truck. Methods I have thought of is body solder, but both sides of the fender will reqiure filling and how will it stick when heating to apply the other side? Another method which looks possible, but may be expensive is flame spraying zinc or steel, grinding down between each coat.

    So my question is:
    What do you recommend for the best rust pit repair on the fenders?

    Regarding the cab seam, how did you clean, neutralize or treat the rust between the panels before welding?

    I know it was requested, but personally I think its sacrilege to change the hood and dash in these vintage vehicles. These are what give them character and nostalgia.

    ZZ
     
  23. ownerizer
    Joined: Aug 4, 2012
    Posts: 81

    ownerizer
    Member
    from Parker, Co


    yes!!!
     
  24. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    Sacrilege ! thanks !
     
  25. Haha I am part of the sacrilege club as well:D. Great work as always Jon!!
     
  26. billsill45
    Joined: Jul 15, 2009
    Posts: 784

    billsill45
    Member
    from SoCal

    How about an update ??
     
  27. 4444Design
    Joined: Aug 25, 2012
    Posts: 292

    4444Design
    Member

    you have stunning skills in fabbing those sheetmetal parts

    congrats for that
     
  28. gwarren007
    Joined: Apr 3, 2010
    Posts: 381

    gwarren007
    Member


    x2 :)
     
  29. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,238

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

    Aluminum hood build.We decided to head in a different direction with hood as we felt the hood was a little on the weight side,so we made an aluminum one instead including inner structure panel.Same deal forward moving hood.Here's the work in progress...
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  30. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    I guess these pics reflect why your the metal surgeon.

    Looks fantastic
     

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