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Projects 1937 Ford truck hot rod roadster build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Todd M., May 26, 2014.

  1. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Years ago I convertiblized an o/t mini truck. I cut the window frames where they met the cut in the roof and at the back of the door. I. attached the removed frame to my metal roof. I left the forward part of the window frame attached to the door. It provided additional support to the window when up. The part I attached to the roof I moved up and back enough to barely clear the door glass. I used frameless window rubber (camaro/firebird) attached where glass met roof so it would 'wrap' over slightly when door was closed. Good luck. I'm subscribed and following along!

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  2. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,625

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    I agree, +10. Proportion is everything. Stock 'flanks' without top would make profile appear to be 'All Body'!
    (I chopped my '36 Ford 3 window 5-1/4" front, 6" rear when just a lad of 13. My Mom was aghast at my lack of foresight and ratio of proportion...)
     
  3. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I agree, the only thing I can see as a benefit with option one is the top will be stiffer with the front post.
    Still haven't decided yet. Need more opinions
     
  4. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    What your describing sounds like option two with the front door post welded back on the door.
     
  5. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I did a little welding today to the Carson style top at the rear section. Still got more welding to go, but she's rock solid and lines up perfect to the roadster body. I've decided to split the roof in the middle and spread it adding 1 1/4" section.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  6. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I did think about it and ruled it out on this one, as I will work with the bottom of the bed for over all profile when I get one. I'm pretty sure I will channel the body over the frame by 4" to give it a lower profile.
     
  7. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    One more photo from today. It should be a crime, " I'm having way too much fun with this build!"
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Cut the weld tacks and removed the top. It wasn't so bad, not too heavy or awkward to remove. Hell, I might even get ambitious and design a hinge system to recess the top into the bed.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2014
    sko_ford likes this.
  9. I was a little unsure of how this was going to go but I'm really starting to like it! Can't wait to see it come together.


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  10. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Thanks man, I can't wait as well.
     
  11. Love it without the top.
     
  12. Quintin
    Joined: Mar 19, 2012
    Posts: 172

    Quintin
    Member

    Good start, can't wait to see more. Kind of halfway similar to mine.
     
  13. johnybsic
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 612

    johnybsic
    Member
    from las vegas

    Yea, this is gonna be cool. Im in dude
     
  14. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    If I can find all the parts at reasonable prices, I should be able to debut it at the Turkey Rod Run Thanksgiving weekend this year.
     
  15. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Ok, It's Friday the 13th right, I thought this would be a good day to tackle the drivers side door. Seeing it's got 13 bullet holes in it. Well I haven't met a door pin that hasn't given me grief! 4 hours into it, I should have just stayed in bed!
     
  16. Todd
    You chop is spot on dude, you got it in spades. I am watching this truck come together and drooling.
     
  17. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Well, after couple more hours I finally showed the door pin who's boss!....... Ya... that's right.... my wife stopped by...... Anyway, it turned out to be a brilliant idea from some rocket scientist to weld through the mirror key hole to hold the pin in, once I figured it out it came off in 2 seconds.
    1st photo showing 12 bullet holes the 13th one is at the top of the door next to the hinge.
    [​IMG]

    This is a dent I pulled out a couple days ago and a little bit of the edge still needed a bit of work. I clamped 1/8 steel bar to give reference and strength along with the hammer and dolly, came out with no problem.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
  18. Here's a 32 shell on a 36 cab.
    Sorry its a Cell phone pic of a magazine.

    X2 on what beaner said!
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Thanks for the pic, and thanks guys!
     
  20. Profile, 32 shell
    Needs to come down a schoatch.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I'm leaning more towards going with a 37' truck grill, if I can't find one then I know the 35',& 36' will do as well.
     
  22. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Working on the LH door repairing the bullet holes, small rust spot, and starting the body work. I took a break on the Carson style top and will get back to it soon splitting it down the middle and adding 1 1/4" section.
    [​IMG]
     
  23. shadams
    Joined: Mar 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,492

    shadams
    Member

    Really looking good. I dug it from the intial write up. Not sure what was so confusing about the bomber leather bench seat, I knew exactly what you meant...:cool:

    As a side note, how the hell are you getting all that done in that little corner of a garage, haha....
     
  24. I saw this when you originally posted, I held of on commenting because I wasn't sure what you were building.

    I have to say, now that I have a clearer picture of what you're up to it looks like it will be pretty awesome!
     
  25. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I use to have a restoration shop with 18 on going projects rotating all the time with a 3 year waiting list. I was use to working in very tight places.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2014
  26. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Thanks
     
  27. deuce1932
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 123

    deuce1932
    Member
    from Australia

    [​IMG]
    one I did about 8 years back with a 32 grille
    I like the look
    cool build
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  28. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    I like what you did with the lake pipes just at the body line. Do you have a front view of the grill?
     
  29. Back on that door top character line discussion. Are you going to have roll-up windows? If so your caps on the ends will require some type of filler above them since the glass can't go to the ends. The logical filler is the door top sections as they will also continue the character line.

    If you want no filler pieces above the caps, you need to make the window slot longer, which means modifying your caps. You still need to resolve the window seal to the top.

    If you want a pure roadster, with no windows, then to fix the character line problem you can make the door tops smooth. In other words eliminate the character line. This may be the easiest solution to your problem, and avoid heavy thick filler pieces at the ends of the doors.
     
  30. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 509

    Todd M.
    Member

    Yes, I will have working roll up windows. I've got it figured out with a solid plan involving the door post being welded to the top. As for the top seal, once I fab some metal at both edges of the top and windshield post. I will make a flat seal for the top so when fasten there will be a very fine line with minimal gap. Wait and see......... Thanks for your impute.
     

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