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Projects 1937 Ford truck hot rod roadster build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Todd M., May 26, 2014.

  1. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    I cut the windshield post today 3” chop. Taped it on to get an idea. I have way too much fab work to do before welding it in. The hinges need to be cut down and build a inner structure for the Carson style top to sit flush with the post. If it was just going to be a roadster I would eliminate the hedged windshield, but I like a challenge, and when the top is secure it will be cool to have a working windshield.
    [​IMG]

    The top inner still needs cutting out and brought down.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 20,962

    Roothawg
    Member

    Interesting. I am curious how this will turn out. I am not a big fan of home made roadsters, but if done right it could be an interesting piece. I would still shoot for full fenders and hood with 37 grill. It's too big of a profile for a 32 shell.
     
  3. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,167

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    I think a 35 or 36 truck grille shell could work out
     
  4. Here's a 33 grille ( narrow narrow) and a '36 cab. It will take a bit but I have a pic or two with a 32 grill and 36 cab also.
     

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  5. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    The 33' grill looks good.
    I agree 35'-36' grill would work as well.
     
  6. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    I did a lot of metal fab today mainly the lower part of the roadster Carson style top. Reinforcing and fabricating a bracket to sit flush with the roadster body. Worked on the windshield post as well. A little more fab on the windshield post and rust repair and it will be ready to weld in.
    I wanted to build a period hot rod with original parts from the mid 50’s and earlier. I know you didn’t see 1937 roadster trucks driving around back then, so this build would be what I consider a “what if”. When I get done the body will be strait, the paint will be flawless, and the roadster truck will be highly detailed, so I don’t think that would fall into the Rat Rod department.
    I welcome comments and criticism, the only thing I ask is write what you would say to me in person or I will just ignore what I consider troll comments “your honor” way out in left field my 2 cents.
    I’m having a lot of fun with this build and all ideas are welcome. No pics today, I forgot to take some.
     
  7. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,038

    fortynut
    Member

    We both know that what you're doing puts you on trial. In my sarcasm, I was testing to see if you, or anyone else would have the balls to stake a claim on your intentions. The very fact you are willing to stick with your convictions, and are working full-tilt on your build makes me realize most of my comments were unfounded. (Just call it a bench seat. Pretensions are often misunderstood.) As far as what it turns out to be, I would call it a 'Phantom' and not a 'what if'. An alternative to mixed year grilles would be a track style nose built using the fenders you didn't use, or something that does not reflect year, make, model. As far as precedents don't forget the most outstanding phantom convertible of the era that was done by the creator of the Duvall windshield. It had a Carson top, an idea that would be useful to consider, in conjunction with a folding version for emergencies and jaunts. [​IMG]
    As you will note, in this stolen image, what you see is a topless, open container with flourishes. It goes where no man had gone before, and did so with such style, those of us who admire weird still stare at with mouths agape.
     
    Hitchhiker likes this.
  8. bartmcneill
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 386

    bartmcneill
    Member
    from Ada, OK

    Cut the top, put a 37 car grille on it and drive. It will look good as long as you do quality work.
     
  9. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,333

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    I'm anxious to see how this turns out because it's something I've considered for my '36. I wouldn't do the lift off top for mine though.

    Blue
     
  10. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Spent a couple of hours today on the rust repair of the upper windshield post. I will weld it in tomorrow as well work on the Carson style hard top. I'm about a half a week away from cleaning all the metal, sand blasting, and starting the body work. I have'nt decided to channel the body over the frame or have sit on it yet.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    AntiBling likes this.
  11. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Finally got the windshield post welded in. After cutting the rest of the Carson style top I went ahead and laid it on to have a look see. It’s lining up pretty well. I've got some metal prepping to do tomorrow, not sure if I’m going to cut the middle out and stretch the top 1 1/4” or work with the front since all of the fabrication will need to be done for the top to clamp and sit flush with the windshield post, ideas please.
    The plan is to use the door post welded to the top for the look I’m after, along with keeping the theme- split personality chopped top pickup/roadster.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  12. Are you going to reshape the top of the doors so the body line doesn't just look like a truck door with the window frame cut off like it does now?
     
  13. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Good question. The plan is to weld the door post to the Carson top so the lines will match up to the bottom of the door with an 1/8” cap or smaller for clearance when opening and closing the doors when the top is on. If there are other ideas, I would like to here them as I’m going to hold off on the door post for a little while.
     
  14. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    I decided to go with a 5 1/4" back window, rather than go through all the extra work for one more inch.
     
  15. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Looking at the pics tonight, maybe I should chop it harder?
     
  16. jamesgs4
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 253

    jamesgs4
    Member
    from denver

    Yes! more chop!
     
  17. this is 4 1/2 in the back 039.jpg
     
    rc57 likes this.
  18. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Great looking project you have there. I like!
     
  19. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Still thinking about it. Haven't made a decision yet. I know the more taken out would make it easer to lift the top off, I like the look of a hard chop, but I don't want to have limited visibility.

    does anyone have pics of the windshield area with 4 1/2" - 6" chopped to share from 35' through 37'?
     
  20. Take this as advice. To make this appear a lot better and not just as a pickup with the top cut off, you should study real convertible car doors and see how they are shaped where they meet the A-pillar. Also see how they deal with the back of the window at the B-pillar. Your door character line for the window area looks out of place now without the window frame to continue the line.
     
  21. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    I agree, that's why I'm thinking of welding the door post to the hard top to keep the lines flowing rather than looking like the top of the door post is just lobed off. I am looking for alternative suggestions as well. If I don't use the door post the plan would be to round off the top of the doors for a better transition.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014
  22. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    I found this photo on the net today. kind of what I'm going for. Can you imagine it as a roadster as well?
    [​IMG]
     
    Hitchhiker likes this.
  23. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Ok, looked at the door frame further, I have a few options. I would like to here from members what would be the best going further?
    option one weld the door post to top 2nd photo.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    option two weld lower front door post back to door with cut to the front top of door post.
    [​IMG]

    closer illustration
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014
  24. I wish Someone would have told Henry he was doing it wrong
     

    Attached Files:

  25. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Thank you for this photo, it really helped.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014
  26. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Photos speaks louder than words, so here is a photo of the type of leather bench seat I'm going to make from scratch. The top of the bench won't be split like the one in this photo. I have this thing about WWII Leather bomber jackets A-2 and G-1 types. There is nothing that looks better (to me) as leather that will develop some really nice patina earned over time (battle scars). This is the look I'm going for.
    [​IMG]
     
  27. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member


    Any suggestions on this before I get into this tomorrow ?
     
  28. Todd M.
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 484

    Todd M.
    Member

    Plan on cleaning and welding up the Carson style top today. Any suggestions on above illustration of the door post fab?
     
  29. i like option 1, i think it will "lock" the roof on better but......getting the top on and off might be harder.
     
  30. Have you thought about a mild section job? If you thin out the flanks a little bit (not a ton) it will look a little smoother with the top off, not so much like a truck with the top whacked off.

    I'm just thinking out loud here, OK?
     

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