Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 1937 Dodge Pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The Rezerend, May 21, 2013.

  1. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Well I traded what was left of my 72 duster for the 36 Dodge below.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Took the cab and box off the frame and bout to roll it into the garage.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Not sure what the end result will be but thinking bout movin the front axle forward to a transverse spring mounted somewhere on the front cross member with a hairpin system. Kinda like more of the high boy look than the slammed, but we'll see once things come together whether or not I Z the frame. Since I'm mopar through and through run as much dodge/mopar stuff as possible. Planning to channel it so the bottom of the cab is even with the frame. May chop it but thats later on down the road. The frame will get an inset box. I have my old 340 race motor slated for a power plant right now but always thought an old hemi or 440 with a long ram intake. Hoping to run an overdrive auto cuz once finished its gonna get miles. Lots of plans we'll see if they all get done before the wedding next summer.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  2. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    Good luck,it looks like afun project! Keep us posted. Normal Norman
     
  3. 36DodgeRam
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 502

    36DodgeRam
    Member

    Nice truck there, but i don't think it's a '36. Mine has a flat firewall, and the gas filler is inside on the floor, not thru the cab side. Mine has lever shocks, not sure when they went tubular. Maybe a '37?
     
  4. old-idaho-iron
    Joined: Jul 1, 2011
    Posts: 88

    old-idaho-iron
    Member

    Wasn't this the same one that was on craigslist?
     

  5. Jen......
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 521

    Jen......
    Member

    37 or 38 is what that is due to recess in firewall


    Jen
     
  6. 36brothers
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 109

    36brothers
    Member


    Yep.. ^^^^
     
  7. 36brothers
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 109

    36brothers
    Member


    Yep.. ^^^^
     
  8. Also top of windshield on 35-36 is straight, while 37-38 has an upward curve.
     
  9. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Yep, I got it not long after it was posted on there and I'm finally getting around to rollin it into the shop. Thanks everyone now I know i'm lookin at a 37 or 38 I'll have to dig around and find some numbers and look it up. The shop is getting cleaner as last night I got the snomobiles out and of course it snows today. Gotta repair the radiator in the CJ7 then its grinder time on the frame. Starting with the welded on front bumper. Hopefully the front frame horns can be salvaged. Then its on to the fender hangers and other misc stuff that won't be used again.
     
  10. cool project, like your powerplant ideas :D
     
  11. AkBillyBow
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 23

    AkBillyBow
    Member
    from Alaska

    Nice looking truck!! I have a 56 Dodge and found the serial numbers (they didn't call them VINs back then) stamped on the outside of the frame rail, drivers side, forward of the front axle. I don't know much about the era of your truck, but I would start looking there for your numbers.

    Cool truck and enjoy the project!!

    AkBillyBow
     
  12. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,317

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    I don't get why you would trash perfectly good parallel leaf springs (a design that is still used on real trucks today) in favor of a Model T design borrowed from horse-drawn buggies? Stay Mopar through and through. Don't give in to Ford-transverse-spring-envy.

    Here's a pic of a '36 for comparison.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. old-idaho-iron
    Joined: Jul 1, 2011
    Posts: 88

    old-idaho-iron
    Member

    Yeah I had seen it on C/L, and thought it would be a cool project, glad to see ya ended up getting it, have fun with he build!
     
  14. 4444Design
    Joined: Aug 25, 2012
    Posts: 292

    4444Design
    Member

    seems to get a interesting project

    keep the updates comin'
     
  15. mcmopar
    Joined: Nov 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,609

    mcmopar
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Strum, wi

    I was in WI dells this last weekend for a car show and a guys 36 dodge pickup was the vechical on the shirts for the show. I saw the truck the guy had it for 43 years, original grill with the crank hole cover. Good luck on your project, I have a 37, and the firewall is recessed.
     
  16. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Well got the garage cleaned out and started work yesterday. My pinky on my left hand has a question for everyone. Is there an easy way to remove the rivets. Right now I'm cutting the heads with with a cutoff wheel careful not to cut the frame then chiseling the remaining flange before trying to use a punch to send it through the frame hole. :)eek:smoked my pinky with a mini sledge and now its kinda out of commission:mad:) Anyways only have one more running board mount to remove but there's plenty of rivets left that may need to be removed. My left fingers thank you for any help.
     
  17. 36brothers
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 109

    36brothers
    Member

    Drill through to weaken the rivet then hammer out with a round punch. This is easier however fingers are still in danger.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2013
  18. 56 Dodge Pickup
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,814

    56 Dodge Pickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    air hammer the head of the rivit with a chisel then use the punch to drive the rivit out
     
  19. 35desoto
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 764

    35desoto
    Member

    I agree - I have a friend with 47 Ford and he reckons Mopar mechanicals are way ahead of his ford esp in the ride quality and the dependability in the diffs motors etc. My .02C is stay with the existing front suspension but make it ride a little smoother - Teflon and Poly bushes sure help in those old springs plus its easy to remove some of the springs to assist in lowering and taking the "bounce" out. Plus with the weight of a 440 or early hemi will make it sit down a bit. Enjoy the truck - its a good start on relatively rare model

     
  20. Poor Boys Garage
    Joined: Sep 3, 2011
    Posts: 22

    Poor Boys Garage
    Member
    from Kansas

    Hello, heres some ideas from our 1937 Plymouth Pickup. We cut the frame off right after the front cross member and rounded the ends to make nice looking frame horns, we're running a 29 Model AA cross member with a 40 Ford frontend. If you have any questions feel free to send me a message. Oh and as for the previous statement of why would you trash a parallel leaf spring frontend, you trash them when running a fenderless truck, cause there is nothing more ugly than a exposed parrallel leaf spring frontend. Also, its tough to lower a parrallel leaf spring frontend.

    Poor Boys Garage,
    Jon
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 26, 2013
  21. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    How big of drill bit? As close to the size of the rivet but not big enough to drill the frame or a little smaller? I don't have an air hammer so thats probably not going to work for me.

    As for the overall direction of the build nothing is set in stone yet. Call it envy or whatever but I like the looks of the transverse set up. Everything that can be will be Dodge. I'll be using the stock Dodge axle, hand built batwings, aftermarket/universal hairpins, and all dodge powertrain. May end up using a quick change rear end since I have one but probably run a rearend out of a dodge police car that I have until I rebuild the quick change. I like the idea of moving the axle forward. If I could get the front end low enough and with the right look I may keep the parallel leafs but I doubt I'll like the mock up. As for now its just plugging along cleaning the frame up.

    Hey Jon, did you have to relocate the cab at all to get it to slide down over the frame or does it fall down in the stock location.
     
  22. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Also does anyone know how to rename a thread or do I need to start a new one. Since we've established this is a 37 or 38 just figured it would be nice to have an accurate title. Haven't found the serial number yet though anyone have ideas as to where it should be?
     
  23. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Made some headway tonight. Bout time to re arrange the 1 car garage so I can work on the other side of the frame. Found the serial number, I believe it is 8179755, any help? Also I found elsewhere that the combination of inset firewall and the crank out windshield that I most likely have a 37, at least a 37 cab. Maybe the serial number will help with the frame. Anyways I have some ideas as to how to make the transverse spring.
    [​IMG]
    What do people think about using a shackle through the stock shock boss in the axle. It's bout 1.75" so depending on the spring I choose I may or may not need spacers.
    [​IMG]
    From here I would make a flat plate steel to match the four bolt holes of the spring mounts with a batwing coming off the outside of the plate. The springs were directly inline with the frame so the hairpins will be pretty close to the frame. I was hoping to use clevis's to attach to the batwings and tie rods into the frame instead of heims everywhere. I kinda had an idea to use piston rods to make the batwings but unsure of their strength. Anyways just a few more pictures for everyone.
    [​IMG]
    Does anyone have the frame end cap with the bolt hole in it to mount the bumper? One of mine had the bolt welded to it.
    [​IMG]
     
  24. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 7,082

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Replacing the parallel leaves with transverse spring is the worst idea ever. What are you thinking?
     
  25. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Well I'm glad to see that there are some real helpful people on here.
    Again nothing is set in stone but transverse has always been a look I like. 35desoto, thanks for a worth while post with information, this is the type of "constructive criticism" that I was hoping to get from this forum. I haven't been able to find lowered springs for under $600 plus bushings and when I can build a transverse for well under $300 and it'll give me the stance I want its hard to pass up. If I do end up going with a transverse spring nothing will be cut or butchered beyond repair. Everything would be bolted on and easily returned to parallel leaves if I find a set that would give me the look I want.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  26. 36brothers
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 109

    36brothers
    Member

    Just drill through with a 3/16th or so bit, it will relieve some of the pressure then you use a drill that is bigger than the rivit body to remove the rivit head. Of course you drill just deep enough for the head to pop off. Yes you may damage the hole some. It will not be perfect, nothing on these old trucks ever was and I don't think you are building a points truck.

    Dan


     
  27. MoparJoel
    Joined: May 21, 2012
    Posts: 860

    MoparJoel
    Member

    X2! ;) Sounds like thats on the right track. Cool truck I will be following it.

    "Lowered springs?" why not just take a leaf or two out or flip the top spring up side down and reverse the eyes and lower it for free?
     
  28. The Rezerend
    Joined: May 21, 2013
    Posts: 16

    The Rezerend
    Member
    from MT

    Thanks Dan. Ya this is definitely not going to be a points truck. Its most likely going to be rode hard and put away wet and after I've done that for a few years and get a few other honey do's done it may come back apart and done right. But for now I'm just trying to get it on the road for my wedding next summer. I was planning on getting some circles punched out of steel and try and weld up a couple of the unused rivet holes so too oblonged isn't a huge deal. I'll start under the cab where noone can see. As much to get used to my new welder before I box the frame as anything.

    I may have to look into this more. This is my first street car/truck that I'll have built. I've built asphalt circle track cars but his is a whole different ballgame..... no rules:cool: Taking leaves out wouldn't be a huge deal as it looks like there are plenty of them but not sure bout how to reverse the eyes. I'm all about free.
     
  29. MoparJoel
    Joined: May 21, 2012
    Posts: 860

    MoparJoel
    Member

    I may have to look into this more. This is my first street car/truck that I'll have built. I've built asphalt circle track cars but his is a whole different ballgame..... no rules:cool: Taking leaves out wouldn't be a huge deal as it looks like there are plenty of them but not sure bout how to reverse the eyes. I'm all about free.[/QUOTE]

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225377
     
  30. 35 Dodge Hot Rod
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 182

    35 Dodge Hot Rod
    Member
    from Mecca

    I definitely agree you're making the right choice ditching the parallel leaf springs in favor of a buggy spring setup. I don't foresee the ride quality being any worse for the wear because of that choice.

    An interesting note about old Mopars being ahead of the time, Dodge Brothers vehicles had hydraulic drum brakes in 1928. That's well over a decade ahead of Ford.

    You're biggest problem is going to be coming up with a nice grille for the truck if you want to keep it all Mopar.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.