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1936 Ford Flathead V8 build thread

Discussion in 'The Antiquated' started by Christopher Miller, Dec 26, 2019.

  1. Started to take apart the steering box after doing some research because it never turned smoothly at all.... and let’s just say it’s not looking good. This is a detour I was not wanting.

    Shot bushing, slightly bent horn rod, and a whole lot of mess

    IMG_2983.JPG IMG_2984.JPG IMG_2985.JPG

    Here’s the shot bushing

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    Horn rod

  2. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 38


    I can't tell from the pic of the horn rod but and that is a big may be able to interchange with a car horn rod or even an 'A' horn rod. The crank pully has a ratchet nut on it (why they still have it on there I don't know) and you can back it off and the pully comes off with a woodruff key if I remember right.

    Christopher Miller likes this.
  3. Thanks!
  4. Been inactive the last few days due to a lot of body work being done on the Cab and it not being a very interesting report.

    Things I got done today
    -started the alternator fan mock up
    -Body work on the cab (almost done)
    -looked into the floorboard pieces and made a new one

    Dad helped me a bunch with the wooden floorboard as I’m not too experienced with it and he loves wood pieces.

    IMG_3051.JPG IMG_3053.JPG
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    Still have a good amount of work on it but it’s cut out and fits which is a good improvement
  5. Also the firewall got painted today

    Surfcityrocker and 34 GAZ like this.
  6. Cowl vent was filled with a liquid rubber that should solidify over night. I tilted the cab to have the cowl level. That way when I drop the cab back down the rubber will be at a slant therefore allowing water to flow to the front instead of sitting in the cowl. Still have to add a new drainage tube
  7. Chose varnish today and was looking for a dark brown so I went for the middle color

    IMG_3115.JPG IMG_3110.JPG
  8. Finished up the weld work on the passenger step up. It’s been a while since I could get back to it but I’d say it turned out well. Still a lot needs done, but the solid foundation is there now

    IMG_3121.JPG IMG_3125.JPG
    simplestone likes this.
  9. Got some small stuff done today.

    -Finished some small body work things on the Cab

    -painted the inner fender walls to match the firewall

    -removed the old front motor mounts

    IMG_3140.JPG IMG_3141.JPG IMG_3143.JPG IMG_3145.JPG IMG_3146.JPG IMG_2629.JPG

    A bunch of parts I ordered came in as well so that will be a journey of new tasks such as installing the pin in the clutch fork

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  10. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 681


    Nice job. You're really working on your skills. MIG welding isn't a job for a breezy day outside though!

    With regards to the small stuff, go grab a jug of Evapo-Rust, they got it at places like Auto Zone. It's ascorbic acid solution and works very well to get into the pits your grinder can't on things like the washer plates and other non critical steel items. Drop the metal in, leave it a few hours, lift it out, give it a quick scrub and rinse and dry and then prime and paint. I've found that is a modest alternative to sand blasting if you can't get, afford one or just don't want the mess involved.

    Keep at it, keep learning. There's a lot of people here willing to help with good advice and experience, too.

    Christopher Miller likes this.
  11. Anyone know the best way to peen this pin over? It’s not as soft of a metal as the pin that originally came out so we couldn’t just hit it and it fold.

    My dad and I thought heating it then trying to peen it was the best option. Would love to hear ideas.

  12. Painted some of the wood pieces with some spar urethane, really brings out the dark tone in the floorboard IMG_3154.JPG IMG_3155.JPG IMG_3156.JPG
  13. Did some metal work then painted it to protect it from further rust damage

    IMG_3164.JPG IMG_3166.JPG IMG_3167.JPG
    IMG_3168.JPG IMG_3169.JPG

    Only had to patch up two spots. Here’s the other spot. Came out really well
    IMG_3170.JPG IMG_3171.JPG IMG_3172.JPG IMG_3173.JPG IMG_3174.JPG

    Here’s painted with some POR-15

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    I’ll probably do some mild Bondo work to mate that weld seam a little better before I put primer on it
  14. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,146


    Nice work.
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  15. Here’s another piece I got done. This is the transmission cover.

    IMG_3185.JPG IMG_3186.JPG IMG_3187.JPG IMG_3188.JPG IMG_3189.JPG

    This picture helps to show the great penetration of the welds ensuring a good connection of the two metal sides

    Here’s another area

    This last area was almost like the first but hard to replace or make up a piece for it so I tried just filling with weld and see if I would just end up blowing holes but it actually went well



    Did a II last clean then a sand blast and here it is painted with POR-15

    IMG_3194.JPG IMG_3195.JPG IMG_3196.JPG
  16. Also wanted to show this. Crazy to see it all start to come together even just a little bit


    After all the body work that’s happening the cab needs washed inside so much dust makes the black shine disappear
    Surfcityrocker and simplestone like this.
  17. Next major project will be the weld work on the driver’s side fender.

    First thing was to remove all this black stuff under the fender which I assume was maybe tar to help protect against rust which worked.... where it was still there. If it hadn’t peeled I bet it would have been a real blessing. This truck is 84 years old though so it’s inevitable.

    IMG_3201.JPG IMG_3202.JPG IMG_3203.JPG IMG_3207.JPG IMG_3208.JPG

    Here’s the process as it unfolded

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    Haven’t started the welding or even where to start but here’s some interesting previous weld “repairs” as well as the rust damage

    IMG_3212.JPG IMG_3213.JPG

    I’m guessing these bolts where to add some sort of stability after damage had happened

    IMG_3215.JPG IMG_3214.JPG

    This I’m guessing was just a hole filled with weld and you can see the plate behind that helped that process
    ...and here’s all the damage

    IMG_3217.JPG IMG_3218.JPG IMG_3204.JPG IMG_3205.JPG

    Not nearly as bad as the previous fender though which is satisfactory
  18. Got the weld work done tonight. Extremely tired but it’s another thing off my list.

    IMG_3221.JPG IMG_3222.JPG
    IMG_3225.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG IMG_3231.JPG IMG_3232.JPG
    Petejoe and simplestone like this.
  19. Worked on the pedals today. I debated rebuilding them but it’s really not that big of a deal so i decided not to. They have a little play so I’m assuming the brass bushings are worn a little. I’ve done a little bit of this process already but here’s how it all went.

    IMG_3258.JPG IMG_3259.JPG IMG_3262.JPG

    Took the old pedals off to properly shine and sand the metal to get that chrome look. If anyone sees this and is interested in some metal petal inserts to mold your own rubber and potentially use them for your project let me know and I can “pay it forward”. I know people are trying to save money and these aren’t cheap. Also anything on this build that I’ve replaced you can always inquire!


    Looking good!

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    I know it’s not right now best of a job lower down but it doesn’t show so it wasn’t as important to me. It got two coats of clear coat.

    IMG_3271.JPG IMG_3272.JPG Adjustments.JPG IMG_3276.JPG

    Tape comes off!

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    Surfcityrocker and simplestone like this.
  20. Did something today I’ve been waiting to do for a long time which is put the transmission in for the last and final time. I needed a pin put in and the order came in so here’s how that went

    IMG_3299.JPG IMG_3301.JPG

    Also in this picture the fork was backwards and sadly I had to take it all apart after having it together to flip the fork back around. So for anyone seeing this in the future, make sure it’s the right direction! It will save you a BUNCH of time and energy.


    New bolts for the transmission to engine, pretty much everything got new bolts


    It’s very dusty so it almost looks back but it just needs washed, which will happen as soon as this thing is rolling again

    Surfcityrocker and simplestone like this.
  21. Looking to put the drive chain together tomorrow but don’t have two bolts. We tried to buy new but nothing was right so I’ll just make them. One I stripped out of thread size confusion and one I straight up lost sadly.

    Here’s one style I lost that’s not cheap or found easy


    It’s like a half circle type head on it
  22. Got the drive chain assembly sealed up with new gaskets everywhere and it’s done!!! So glad this happened!!!

    Had to make a bolt so I could finish this process of assembling



    IMG_3322.JPG IMG_3323.JPG IMG_3324.JPG IMG_3326.JPG
  23. Also got a friend to come over and help me put the cab on, Isn’t this crazy?!?!???

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    It’s fully bolted down and ready for whatever happens next. Haven’t really thought of where I’m gonna go from here but it’s either the fenders and fender inside walls will get a lot of work to go on


    I’ll work on some of the interior pieces to get them put in. I need to drill and tap holes for attachment as well as a little bondo work to areas I had welded.

    We’ll see. I have all my months planned out in notes so I’ll probably just do the next thing on the list
    Surfcityrocker and rusty valley like this.
  24. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,668

    rusty valley

    starting to look like a truck again! great job.when trying to fill pin holes and thin spots a piece of copper or brass as a backup will help to cool it faster so less burns thru, and it leaves a sorta smooth surface on the back thats easier to finish grind than a bunch of weld bumps. sometimes old electrical switch boxes or dead welders will have a nice chunk of copper. keep up the good work!
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  25. I actually never thought about a plate helping create that smooth look but makes total sense. I don’t have much left to weld but if I can use this technique I will and post it on here to show.

  26. 6V to 12V questions.

    I have plans to convert this V8 Flathead Ford to a 12V system and already have a 12V generator. What else is needed? I know bulbs will need to be 12V but what about a 12V coil, is that needed? What all do I need to do this conversation?
  27. Chris your gauges are 6 volt so you will most likely need to step the voltage down here and you will need a 12v voltage regulator to go along with the generator. Lots of threads on here about stepping the voltage down so search that out
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  28. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,668

    rusty valley

    if you use the bosch blue coil, then no ballast resistor is needed for the ignition system. then just 12 volt bulbs and you're done
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  29. Thanks everyone. Looking into all the stuff and I’ll show you all before I buy to make sure it’s all right
  30. IMG_3355.JPG

    What’s everyone’s thoughts on getting this?

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