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1936 Ford Flathead V8 build thread

Discussion in 'The Antiquated' started by Christopher Miller, Dec 26, 2019.

  1. lothiandon1940 likes this.
  2. lothiandon1940 likes this.
  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,668

    rusty valley
    Member

    good work on the old truck, you will be a fine fabricator some day. now, lets talk pto's and dump trucks. many of the older hoists had the pump and the control mounted right on the cylinder. they had a big enough cylinder housing to hold all the oil necessary to extend the cylinder without the need for a separate oil tank. scissor type hoists mostly, as a long modern telescopic type needs more oil, thus needs an oil tank. so, if you find an older type hoist its just a matter of hooking a drive shaft to your pto, and make a mounting bracket for a lever, and a rod going back to the control on the pump. a short drive shaft will usually run fine alone, but longer than about 4' should have a bearing in the center. and the shaft will need a slip yolk at one end to allow for frame flex. both ends of the drive shaft will need a u joint and the proper size yoke to fit your pto and pump. all this stuff is expensive if you have to buy it new. do you have an old time junk yard near home? they always save this stuff for building tow trucks. i have it all sitting here doing nothing, if you were closer i'd give it to ya. when looking for a hoist, if it has a yoke and shaft included thats a plus. for the lever we just make a bracket out of angle iron that mounts on two of the bolts that hold the trans shifter top on, use a piece of 1/4" x 1" flat stock for the lever, and cut the proper hole in the floor to make it work. let me know if you need a part or two, best wishes
     
  4. This was very helpful thank you so much for the input. I don’t actually have any of the things to do this and that’s why I inquired. We don’t have a ton of money so nothing for it would be bran new. There is a junk yard that I know of that’s about 45 minutes away and after this whole “stay at home” order lifts up I’ll be able to take a visit down and see what’s there. I really appreciate it because this all explained it so well. If I get going on this I’ll definitely ask for some parts but still not sure yet
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  5. lothiandon1940 likes this.
  6. I think this is the last metal replacement I made for the cab. It’s been a long time coming to be able to say this
    IMG_1785.JPG IMG_1786.JPG IMG_1787.JPG IMG_1788.JPG IMG_1790.JPG IMG_1791.JPG IMG_1792.JPG IMG_1793.JPG IMG_1784.JPG


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  7. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,668

    rusty valley
    Member

    you have some grinding to do now !
     
  8. For sure. This is my plan for tomorrow. Depending if it all gets grinder down I plan Thursday to be able to lay down a simple primer layer down just to be able to see all the imperfections I’ll need to further address


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  9. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,146

    Mart
    Member

    Your welds are improving. Still room for improvement, but definitely better than when you started.
     
  10. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,127

    NoSurf
    Member

    Awesome thread.

    And if @Mart is giving you props, builder of "Ol' Rusty", you know you are doing good.

    Keep at it. It will all be worth it in the end!
     
    34 GAZ, Christopher Miller and Mart like this.
  11. Getting a ton done. It’s so nice I can just be in a tee shirt, its a good feeling. It’s all starting to clean up IMG_1798.JPG IMG_1799.JPG IMG_1800.JPG IMG_1801.JPG IMG_1802.JPG IMG_1804.JPG IMG_1805.JPG IMG_1807.JPG IMG_1808.JPG IMG_1810.JPG IMG_1813.JPG IMG_1812.JPG


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    34 GAZ likes this.
  12. Also anyone know if these pins are threaded? Or the best way to get them out? IMG_1814.JPG IMG_1815.JPG IMG_1816.JPG


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  13. Boryca
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 663

    Boryca
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    There's a press made for pressing out the hinge pins - this is what they look like. You can do it yourself with a C-clamp and some ingenuity though. Deep well sockets make pretty good supports for something like that.
     
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  14. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,146

    Mart
    Member

    I made a pusher for one of those pins. It was very very difficult to get out. (I only did one).
    As your cab is not fixed down, would it be possible to have it upside down with a piece of strong tubing supporting the hinge, solidly grounding it to a concrete floor. Then you might stand a chance of drifting the pins out by hitting them downwards backed up by the floor.

    Purely theoretical, never tried it.

    Mart.
     
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  15. NoSurf
    Joined: Jul 26, 2002
    Posts: 4,127

    NoSurf
    Member

    Looking good!

    I didn't catch what your plan was for slowing down future corrosion, but I prepped and used Zero-Rust on the inside and bottom of the body on my coupe and my '48 AD pickup.
     
    Christopher Miller likes this.
  16. Just now noticing I didn’t share this info yet. Here it is!

    I intend to do the same but with this product below. I plan on spraying all the inside with it as well as under and probably the step up as well. I may go a few inches up from the bottom but still debating. I know where the rust damage was before and would like to paint all parts that were previously hit bad with this.
    IMG_1148.JPG IMG_1148.JPG

    The outside and top will just be painted with a simple grey filling and sand-able primer




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  17. Busted out the sand blaster today and while it’s not very efficient I used it on the areas needed it best. Granted I’m not doing this as a final primer, just a first layer so I can get an idea for where I need to address more carefully. Still wanted to get as much cleaned up now so I’m not just painting over potential problems later.

    IMG_1849.JPG IMG_1850.JPG IMG_1852.JPG IMG_1853.JPG IMG_1855.JPG IMG_1856.JPG IMG_1857.JPG


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  18. So I painted today. Not perfect but pretty descent and good coverage. This is the rust protector and I’ll put the primer on next when this drys well. A few runs but this is only the first layer so I can get a feel for what body work needs done still. My dad smiled to see his old truck coming around which was a good feeling

    IMG_1924.JPG IMG_1925.JPG IMG_1922.JPG IMG_1926.JPG IMG_1929.JPG IMG_1930.JPG IMG_1932.JPG IMG_1933.JPG IMG_1936.JPG IMG_1939.JPG IMG_1940.JPG IMG_1916.JPG
    IMG_1915.JPG


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    Attached Files:

    simplestone and NoSurf like this.
  19. Just fit up the dash and headboard to see how it would look. It’s come a long way [​IMG][​IMG]


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  20. Getting a lot of Bondo work done. It’s not done yet just roughing in. I’ll do the fine bits another day and really get into the nitty-gritty imperfections
    IMG_2094.JPG IMG_2093.JPG IMG_1289.JPG IMG_1289.JPG IMG_1289.JPG IMG_1289.JPG IMG_1289.JPG
     
    NoSurf likes this.
  21. Prepping for a coat of primer so I can really see all the imperfections
    IMG_2113.JPG IMG_2114.JPG IMG_2115.JPG IMG_2112.JPG
     
    NoSurf and simplestone like this.
  22. Painted some primer just to see all the imperfections I was dealing with and what a difference. It’s obvious the difference between step ups that I had started to work on. I ran out of primer for the top left and that’s the only one I couldn’t get to. The last picture really shows all the imperfections on the back
    IMG_2117.JPG IMG_2118.JPG IMG_2119.JPG IMG_2120.JPG IMG_2123.JPG IMG_2124.JPG IMG_2121.JPG IMG_2126.JPG IMG_2127.JPG IMG_2129.JPG IMG_2130.JPG
    IMG_2116.JPG
     
    NoSurf likes this.
  23. sliceddeuce
    Joined: Aug 15, 2017
    Posts: 2,982

    sliceddeuce
    Member

  24. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 38

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Looking really good! Keep at it and in no time flat you will have a gorgeous truck to drive round town!

    Mike
     
    NoSurf and Christopher Miller like this.
  25. IMG_2203.JPG
    Starting the long haul
     
  26. These tiny holes have to be the most annoying
    [​IMG]
     
  27. Before I had applied some Bondo i really made sure to mark up everything I could see. After all this is done I’ll do another coat of primer and hopefully have gotten it all, if not I’ll do one last run of Bondo work and prime a 3rd and final time
    [​IMG] IMG_2199.JPG IMG_2200.JPG IMG_2201.JPG IMG_2202.JPG
     
  28. Got a ball grinder today to really get into the tight spots on these door step-up areas

    IMG_2215.JPG IMG_2219.JPG IMG_2217.JPG

    My current project up against a past project

    IMG_2222.JPG
     
    Boryca likes this.
  29. Started to get rid of rust damage on the splash guards
    IMG_2386.JPG
    IMG_2388.JPG IMG_2392.JPG IMG_2394.JPG
    IMG_2398.JPG

    This is the other one, pretty proud of this piece, while it’s not perfect i think I did a decent job of getting a good amount of the curvature into the piece.
    IMG_2405.JPG
    IMG_2406.JPG IMG_2407.JPG IMG_2409.JPG IMG_2412.JPG IMG_2414.JPG

    I’ll still need to grind down some welds and clean up some edges but for the most part I think these are done. They aren’t very visible so not crazy concerned about how amazing they look but still good enough to not look like a pile of rust
     
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