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Projects 1936 Chevy build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lucky-13, Sep 11, 2013.

  1. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    That's odd loaded the page 5 times it worked 4... well ill upload them later again

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  2. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    Great build!!!
    What did u use for the front end?
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2013
  3. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Thanks its just a superbell 6 inch drop kit from speedway

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  4. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,918

    CoolHand
    Alliance Vendor

    Yeah, they all just show a gray box that says, "Sorry, the person who uploaded this photo has moved or deleted it."

    Very strange. :confused:

    Love the color though. :D
     
  5. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,223

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  6. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Ya the color is one shade darker then the original there was still glossy original paint under the window frame :eek:

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  7. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,883

    indyjps
    Member

    Interesting on the wrinkle paint, when I saw the pics I was thinking bedliner.
     
  8. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    How or what determined a 46 or 48" wide? Which would
    you recommend for my 3/4 ton frame (seems a little taller in C sect)
    looking to do a similar front. Steering box?
    How do you like the handling?
     
  9. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    The way i did it (i may be wrong) was to measure out and stand up some old tires and just eye ball it. The 46 inch leads to 54.5 wide hub to hub. I would just do the same see what you like. for the steering it is a vega box, dont skimp on it bite the bullet and buy a good one flaming river has got a lot of good reviews, i have cheapo box and it always needing adjustment. And the handling is really nice, but dont forget the front pan-hard bar helps a ton keeping the axle walking side to side.
     
  10. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    sorry 54 1/4 track width for the 46 axle and 56 1/4 for 48
     
  11. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    The way i did it (i may be wrong) was to measure out and stand up some old tires and just eye ball it. The 46 inch leads to 54.5 wide hub to hub. I would just do the same see what you like. for the steering it is a vega box, dont skimp on it bite the bullet and buy a good one flaming river has got a lot of good reviews, i have cheapo box and it always needing adjustment. And the handling is really nice, but dont forget the front pan-hard bar helps a ton keeping the axle walking side to side.
     
  12. jegbflat
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 28

    jegbflat
    Member

    Lucky-13....here's a pic of my brown "wrinkle" dash. Anything close to what the Eastwood paint can do?

    Thanks again, Jerry

    P4100244.jpg
     
  13. nhmikel
    Joined: Jun 29, 2012
    Posts: 308

    nhmikel
    Member
    from NH

    I just checked my Speedway catalog and could not find a 46", 6" drop with drilled holes??
    It looks like you welded in the 33-34 Ford cross member?
    Are you using ford or chevy spindles?
    It all looks sweet.
     
  14. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    I drilled the holes myself and I just realized its a 4 inch drop, and yes that is 34 crossmember also its ford spindles
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  15. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    jegbflat
    i just looked again at your pic and i think the east wood is pretty close, but just a heads up its easier to paint the whole piece my dash took 3 cans then just try to fix a portion
     
  16. jegbflat
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 28

    jegbflat
    Member

    Thanks - after the gauge mod's my dash is now half brown wrinkle and half smooth primer. so I'll definitely have to paint it all at once. I'll test it on some scrap metal first and see how it looks.
     
  17. 1 Hotrod
    Joined: Jul 18, 2002
    Posts: 128

    1 Hotrod
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Looks good, how much did you take out of the top? How long is the box? One last question what is meant by low cab?
     
  18. jegbflat
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 28

    jegbflat
    Member

    @ 1Hotrod... quote from another site "Midway through the 1936 model year, the cabs on Chevrolet trucks underwent a design change. Trucks produced during the first half of the model year were built with a square cab design popular in truck lines for over a decade. At mid-year, Chevrolet began building a more rounded cab body reflective of automotive styling trends in the mid-30s, along with the styling of many competitors trucks. The more squared cabs became known as "high cabs" while the more rounded cabs were known as "low cabs." Jerry
     
  19. 1 Hotrod
    Joined: Jul 18, 2002
    Posts: 128

    1 Hotrod
    Member
    from Wisconsin

  20. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    @ 1hotrod
    measurements of the bed are as follows
    49" long by 45" wide
    19-3/4" tall from the bottom to the bend
    from the bend to the pipe is 4-1/4"
    the pipe is 1-1/4" galvanized fence post that i washed off the galvanization
    the bend is 30 degrees (stock is 28)
    the bed is made of 4 pieces the two sides, a front that is close to the tailgate but only 1 piece of pipe and a role pan that is u shaped that raps around the back of the frame.

    Also on the chop I took about 2 inch out of the back then 2 and strong 1/4 inches out of the front



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  21. wisebri24
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 5

    wisebri24
    Member

    Thanks for sharing the pics! Nice.
    Do you have any 6 banger engine stuff?
    I am looking for a 1936 cylinder head.
    Casting 837981
    P/N 601988

    Thx. Joe
     
  22. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    No I dont have any of oem motor or trans stuff. It was long gone when I bought the frame and cab .

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  23. jegbflat
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 28

    jegbflat
    Member

    Hi, on September 20 you posted a photo taken from outside front/passenger quarter looking at the windshield frame opening with a little of the dash support piece showing. I'm at the point of reassembling the dash and support now but been too long since I disassembled. And didn't take a photo of that area :-(. I can't remember if the dash "lip" comes down over the wood support far enough to actually meet and butt to the lower windshield frame lip or if it overhangs? Either way, when it's assembled, does any of the wood dash support show between the dash lip and lower windshield frame opening lip?

    Sorry if I'm not explaingin well. Is there any way you could post or PM me a photo taken from over the engine looking back toward the windshield opening (with windshield open) that would show where the dash and cab meet (where the 6 screws secure the dash support)?


    I'd attach a photo but can't seem to figure that out too. When I select "insert image", it only gives me choice of a weblink?

    If anyone else sees this post, has a '36 low cab pickup and would share a picture of this particular area, I'd really appreciate it. Right now, my dash doesn't want to settle down onto the support far enough (I don't think!) and I'm wondering if it's because the corners are buggered up a bit.

    Thanks much to all,

    JGiles
    La Conner, WA
     
  24. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    not able to get a pic right now but from what i know from memory the support does have 6 screws and the dash just hooks over that there is only 4 bolt in the dash two on the edge of each sides. shoot me an email of the pics if you cant get them to post here
    coryvierra@ gmail .com no spaces in that
     
  25. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Got one side of the exhaust fitted and about to start the other side. Has anyone used any good heatshield either stick-on or something to wrap around the exhaust?


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

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  26. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,276

    KJSR
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Do some searches on heat wrap. Alot of horror stories out there....
     
  27. Michael Pukash
    Joined: Mar 1, 2006
    Posts: 256

    Michael Pukash
    Member

    Really nice build! I sure could use those old frame horn spring hangers. Keeping the leaf springs on mine. Shoot me a message if you want to part with them.
     
  28. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Thank you Michael I do have them somewhere give me a bit ill see if I can find them.

    I should have clarified im not looking for like header wrap I need something for radiant heat from getting into the cab and my fuel lines.

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  29. jegbflat
    Joined: Mar 5, 2011
    Posts: 28

    jegbflat
    Member

    Finally returning to my '36 project and continue to get inspiration from your work. Re: battery - 1) is your battery box "off-the-shelf" or did you build it? 2) where is it in relation to cab? and 3) if under the cab did you cut access to it? I'm debating whether to mount behind cab inside frame rail under bed or under the cab and cut access hole inside seat frame. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome!

    Thanks again,

    Jerry
     
  30. lucky-13
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 213

    lucky-13
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Its under the cab on the passenger side I built it and its attached to frame rail. Speedway sells a couple that are really similar that bolt on. I didnt cut a hole because the battery slides in from the side and the terminals are on the side. I used a angular strap out of an old jag that pulls the battery into the mount. What you can do if you want to be able to jump the car is install remote terminals anywhere you want.

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    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014

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