Hello, let me start by saying I know nothing about cars! Built houses my whole working life, semi retired now and just picked up a 35 Buick with a 128” wheelbase, thought I might try spend the next 10 years or so restoring it, or putting the body on a newer frame. My first question is what frame would work? I would want a smooth ride, not to bad with the gas mileage, not looking to make it into a hot rod, I would prefer a cruiser. I thought of buying something like a Bentley continental, as I like how they drive? But have no idea if that is even possible
I was driving a friends old car down the express lane around some curves, and it took every muscle in my body to keep that car between the white lines! If I keep the old frame, then I will have to upgrade ever component of steering and handling, is that possible
Sorry to be so short on my reply, kid called as I was posting. You might be surprised at how well it will ride, not like a new luxury car, but get your feet wet with refurbishing what you have. See how you like it, then look at upgrades to your suspension to get a better ride if needed
Well it is supposed to run decent, so my next free day I might sneak it down the road and try some handling. Thanks
Don’t compare your friends “old car” to a properly rebuilt old car. Let me ask you a question, if I may. You have said you are a house builder and know nothing about cars. Now for the question Do you think you are up to the task of stripping a Caddie down (I/e) to the frame, and then putting your body on it? Is so, probably dump into the deep end and build your own frame and chassis. If not, rebuild what you have. Gain some skills, see how you like it, what changes you can make. Would be so much quicker to say, go through the whole front end, ect, than try to cluge it on top of a “20xx” car.
Old cars drive different but not all that much. I graduated high school in 2007, my first car was a 1954 ford, 3 on the tree, overdrive, 88k original miles... i had it over 100mph, had it on 2 wheels once, cruised it to shows out of town, had a blast. Manual steering, manual brakes. Personally after owning 50+ cars some new mostly old i love driving the old ones! Have to have good tires, tight steering, proper alignment
For what it is worth, when I built my 38 Chevy back in the 70's I used basically stock suspension, beam axle, new king pins and updated the brakes to 53/54 Chevy drums, and used a 57 Chevy rear end. The steering box was not great but I drove that car everywhere, put about 20K miles on it over three or four years, it was my only car for awhile. In the late 80's the car got mothballed (an ugly story It sat until after the turn of the century, I then used a kit to put in independent front suspension with rack and pinion steering and disk brakes, upgraded the rear to a Ford nine inch. It might ride a little better, and it darn sure steers better but there are times I wish I'd have just left it like I first built it. I'd suspect that your woodworking abilities may be taxed on this project, I think the Buick's used a lot of wood, good luck, looks like it would be a cool car
I would think it would take way more skill and fabrication ability to pull off a frame swap instead of upgrading what you have. Put a modern rearend in the back on rebuilt or new leaf springs and adapt some kind of newer suspension to the front. I'd think that is WAY easier than a frame swap.
The wood working is kind of why I brought it home, made custom hardwood furniture for a couple years in my earlier days, and have all the tools for bending and building anything wood,
@Daniel Van Dyk Assuming the chassis under your Buick is not badly rusted or otherwise seriously damaged, it is a stout foundation for what you have in mind. The comments in above posts about suspension, steering and rear axle upgrades are sound advice and basically 'the formula' for making a car of the '30s and '40s a safe, dependable and pleasant driving machine. It DOES take research and planning to bring together a combination of adequate and compatible components. However, as you will find, there is a plethora of vendors who offer a variety of chassis/drivetrain components to make that feasible. If you have read the HAMB Rules, keep them in mind when discussing some aspects of your project. Many cars owned by HAMBers, while basically HAMB friendly by model year, have some upgrades, such as modern EFI (electronic fuel injection) that is kept on the 'down low'. You will find this Forum chock full of accomplished, knowledgeable people who are very willing to offer useful suggestions. You will also find a few flinty 'ol curmudgeons from time to time. Roll with it and you will benefit from the association. Ray
Ok, you say you know nothing about cars, (don't take this the wrong way) but in my way of thinking, if you go ahead with your plans of doing a later frame swap, your Buick will never get finished, and possibly end up in the scrap yard, as a failed project. Don't compare your car with others, the Buick was a class car back in the day, and no doubt handled very nicely in 1935.. If I owned your Buick, I would keep the original frame (nothing fits like original) refurbish the brakes, (or change to a later hydraulic system) Check/overhaul the suspension bushes, add a stabilizer bar to the front/rear.. Fit/modify the shock mounts to accept new gas telescopic shock absorbers.. Check and adjust/replace the steering box and joints/kingpins.. Now go for a road test, see how it handles.. If the handling isn't to your liking, maybe now start looking at front suspension/diff swaps..
Kanter auto products will be your friend. You will be pleasantly surprised by the ride and handling of you Buick once you rebuild the front components. Is it going to handle like a sports car, no but they ride quite nice if done right.
Ya that sounds like the way to go, I’m first going to test drive it as is, seems to run ok, but I’m just waiting for a mechanic buddy of mine to look it over to make sure the brakes and steering won’t fail!! How about the motor? It’s the inline 8cyl, sounds like I’m going to be visiting a lot of gas stations if take it for a long cruise!
Well over my 35 years of building houses, I’m also an electrician, plumber, heating and ventilating specialist, and boiler tech, if I can figure that out on a job, I should be able to figure out an old car as a hobby, I live in the North, and need a new challenge for the winter months
Agree with above. Keep the frame. Upgrade the front brakes and rear end. Shove in a nailhead or just a small block to get running.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/3536fbsm/index.html Some basic details on body construction however LOTS of wood that may require replacement, a steel out may be in order to add structural integrity. It would be nice to see a nailhead 'Buick engine and auto trans. If so you'd need to eliminate the torque-tube and add a later rear axle. New shocks, upgraded brakes and possibly steering. Your 60 series frame, if serviceable, would be a beefier / stout frame and a better alternative by comparison to other smaller GM frames. No frame swaps or later front clips. Series 40, 117" WB Series 50, 119" WB Series 60, 128" WB Series 90, 136" WB Frame number (1932 - 1935) is stamped on a plate attached to the frame under the right front fender. Engine number (1934 - 1935) is stamped on the upper right side of the engine above the front push rod cover on 50-60-90 series, below the front push rod cover on 40 series.
Another vote to keep the stock frame rebuild, up grade and make it safer, more reliable and more fun (in that order) as you go. In my opinion a frame swap would end badly, you pull the car apart with lack of skills, time and maybe money you lose interest and sell it for parts. The best thing to do is do smaller jobs so it’s not down for a long time and you can’t enjoy it.
Guys that think about doing a chassis swap fail to realize that old cars are configured differently from later ones. The engine is located way further back, the steering column is more towards the center of the car because old cars have narrow frames with running boards and the track width is generally narrower as well. You might as well consider mounting that old body on a unibody front wheel drive platform.
Nice find and a nice project . Better tie that body up before the first run. Drivers seat too. Or strip it down.
The only frame that will work on that Buick is the one that came with it, unless you had one of the rod shops build you a custom one to the same specs as the original, later car frames are all too wide for 30's cars. There are several ways to go, rebuild the stock suspension, maybe do a brake upgrade, go to power brakes and power steering. Another option, which would be outside of this traditional Hot Rod website is to more streetrod update, but still using the stock frame is to update the front suspension to something like a Heidts super ride II, go coilovers on the rear or an IRS.
As you search through this site, you might note that the best of the best cars presented use original equipment frames and suspensions systems with tasteful upgrades such as dropped axles or spindles, and upgraded brakes, wheels and tires. I once owned a 1930 3 window coupe that someone had cobbled unto a '59 Pontiac Wide-Track chassis. It was a perfect example of how NOT to build a acceptable hot rod.
DVD; For a few ideas on modernizing/updating the Buick, see iffen you can find/borrow a series of older R&C mags, ~ 70's, iirc. Bud Bryan started a series on a ~'38 Buick 4dr, after his ModelA roadster was creamed. Idk how long the articles ran, I doubt it was thru to completion, as R&C folded, one of a couple of times. Even though he started w/a nicer car, the principles still apply. Make a nice driver out of it, using mostly rebuilt stock-ish stuff, upgrades where necessary. I suppose today it might be termed a resto-mod, if it matters. Then it was called a "reacher". Marcus...
Hi, I am doing the same as you except I am using the original frame, just boxing it for strength. These cars drive very well and smooth . To drive at modern speed all you need is better brakes and steering. It already has independent front coil spring suspension and semi elliptical rear springs, both used for decades since. I am sitting my rear end for modern one, bolt in. Hydraulic disc brakes to be added. The front is the bigger challenge, , you can get a weld in kit heavy enough from a hot rod supplier , I am going to make my own adapter set up. ( My son Is a Machinist ).Have fun, my goal is to build a safe, touring car that can haul my trailer, cummins diesel powered.
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