1935-1940 Ford frame repairs, rusted out areas

I just picked up my frame from the sandblasters and it has more rust than I had inticipated. It's still very salvageable but I am concerned about the area where the frame kicks up in the rear. They always seem to retain dirt,moisture and eventually rust through.

With all that said....what would be the correct structural way to repair this?

(A) Build a scab patch the overlays the area, probably the easiest,and strongest but ugliest

(B) Cut out the damaged area and butt weld in a patch


The frame will be boxed anyway but I can't just leave the pinholes. All opinions are welcome.

Root

 

Cut out and replace is the ONLY right way to do it.

alchemy

 

What about the inner structure? It butts right up to it.

 

Every fab and chassis shop have there own way of dealing with this common problem.The best way is to re-construct what Henry built to begin with. (My Opinyon) That aeria is generally not a place that needs to be boxed. How ever you go about doing the repair start out by making sure the frame is correct and not sagged due to the rust. In the Wescott book amoung other places there is a very good blue print of the chassis. If you don't have access to one I could E-Mail you a copy just P.M. me.
The Wizzard

 

It's not that bad. I would have posted pics to help but I have to go to work. I would say the area is probably 5x7 inches and is not all totally rusted out. It's just thin....I'll try and post pics if I get a chance.

 

Root,
Just picked up a '34 PU chassis that I am going to steal the X member and front crossmember for my A. Side rails are rusted badly but you may be able to find some patch panels off of it. I will save the pieces till I hear from you. Free if you want them.
George

 

Here are the pictures....

 

The other one...

 

Same problem I had on my 35, but mine was rusted all the way
in the rear area. I chose to cut the rails off from the end of the X-member and to the gastank. Then I fabricated new boxed rail pieces from scratch , but designed in a higher kickup to be able to get the rear down some 4"more. I had the frame in a jig during that prosess to get everything straight.Lots of work...
But if your frame damage is only in one area , and you dont have any plans for modifications. I think I would have removed the inner rail, butt welded patches, and boxed it.

 

Ive a 39 frame that is shot in the middle but I "think" it is OK back where you are looking.
Im planning on cutting it up this spring anyway once I remove the brake/clutch stuff, front end, and some X members.

If you can wait another 45-60 days you can have it, should be cheap to ship.

 

Thanks for the offer but this should be sitting on all 4's in 60 days...I hope.

 

If you want to do it right, drill the rivets on the center X then repair the rails. Re-install the center X. It sucks, but it works with the added advantage of being able to coat between the two parts with a rust preventive.

 

Tamn, that's a thought.