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Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeff34, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. Nobey
    Joined: May 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,247

    Nobey
    Member

    The third brush is adjustable, you move it one way, and it increases your charge, the other way
    will decrease it. The cut out opens when you shut the engine off so it won't run the battery down
    through the generator. I'll try to find a schematic for you, to help adjust your generator. The other
    thing you can do is run a 1939 or later generator with a voltage regulator. Come to think of it Jeff,
    this is probably why you were having problems with your ignition earlier.
     
  2. Nobey
    Joined: May 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,247

    Nobey
    Member

  3. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks, Nobel. I'll check this out when I get back from Japan.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  4. Nobey
    Joined: May 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,247

    Nobey
    Member

    Anything new on your pickup, or are you still in Japan???
     
  5. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Ha! Yeah, I was only there for a week. Not much new on this end. I did get my spare powder coated and mounted. I have to give another shout out to Les Schwab for their $30 powder coating. One week turn around. Got the spare back, mounted on the fender, complete with stock wheel lock!!![​IMG]


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  6. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    I've been driving the crap out of this little truck when it hasn't been too hot. Radiator still needs to be replaced, but other than that it's a solid runner.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  7. Craig Owens
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 442

    Craig Owens
    Member

    Your truck's looking good. I'd heard that Les Schwab was offering powder coating on wheels, but 30 bucks, that's really cheap! It looks good in the picture...is it as good up close as it looks in a picture? Too bad you're not able to make the reliability run that's coming up...we'll miss you.
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  8. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    They do a great job. The wheels on the truck are two years in and holding up great!
    I may make it after all. Looks like I don't leave until Tuesday.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  9. Nostalgia being what it is, my 34 Ford was a runner when I bought it, and I drove it for 6 months before doing anything to change it. That was only 60 years ago, seems like yesterday.
    I like your idea of hopping up the flattie.
     
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  10. Craig Owens
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 442

    Craig Owens
    Member

    Great if you can make it! I'll look forward to seeing you. Marcus Edell will be riding with me as navigator.
     
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  11. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got a “new” fan with a longer hub. Moved the fan forward by an inch. Should pull more air through the radiator. Also got what looks like a truck radiator to replace my leaker, but it’s got leaks. Oh well...still on the hunt. [​IMG][​IMG]


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  12. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got my new key fob made by a friend who does leather work. Looks AWESOME! [​IMG]


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  13. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got my new ignition cylinder installed. Looks good with the new key fob... IMG_3894.JPG IMG_3895.JPG
     
  14. Very nice!
     
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  15. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    So I "solved" my fuse issue. I use a 30ACG fuse in my fuse block, and it was blowing for unknown reasons. Sometimes right when I put a new fuse in, sometimes a bit later, but I'd lose all my lights when it happened. The other day, I was going to head over for an early get-together, and I knew it would be dark, so the day before, I decided to figure it out. My first guess was right! I disconnected the HORN, and now the fuse doesn't blow. I had heard somewhere a while back that the horn circuit can cause fuse failure, but didn't think much about it until I needed headlights. Now I just need to figure out WHY the horn caused the fuse to blow so I can have my horn back...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  16. Good to see your thread back in action.
    When diagnosing your horn wiring, keep in mind the power goes
    "through" the horn, not "to" the horn.
    You likely know that though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2018
    Jeff34 likes this.
  17. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Long time, no posts. I’ve just been enjoying the truck and driving the crap out of it.
    Finally decided that the radiator needed fixed. Also, does anybody know what rubber plug fills this hole just to the right and below the foot rest? IMG_0313.JPG IMG_0314.JPG IMG_0315.JPG


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  18. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Also thinking about replacing the clutch and pressure plate. I’ve been having lots of chatter and it’s probably due. Thoughts on what I should do? Lightened flywheel? Upgraded setup????


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  19. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    One thing often not done when "specifically chasing a chatter problem"...borrow a dial indicator to see if the flywheel surface is running true. I do that before taking it off for resurfacing, but again after install too. If the motor was dropped, or the crank was ever bumped or dropped on it's flange, it can be bent just a few thousandths which will cause chatter.

    That hole in the toe board is for access to the TOB, I believe it is a sheetmetal cover
     
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  20. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got the radiator back and installed. Decided to do a battery relocate to under the seat and add a cut off switch as well as new motor mounts and radiator mounting pads. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  21. Craig Owens
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 442

    Craig Owens
    Member

    Looking good Jeff! You'll be ready for this summer
     
  22. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,018

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Nice job Jeff.
     
  23. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Turns out the clutch chatter was because of the deteriorated motor mounts. Chatter is now gone! Yea!
    Yes, Craig, I’m ready for summer and the next reliability run!!!!


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  24. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks, Aaron!


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  25. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Well, I guess it was probably just inevitable that this would happen at some point. I stopped at the gas station on Saturday and somebody told me my truck was leaking from the engine. The radiator usually spits out a bit of fluid when I stop because there's no recovery tank (yet). But this time the puddle was bigger, and foamy...
    I opened up the cap, and the fluid inside was all foamy and smelled unlike radiator fluid. I turned back and drove it home (3 blocks) and parked it in the garage. I had to go help a friend demo a kitchen, so the truck had to wait. I started tearing into it on Sunday (I probably needed an excuse to do the heads and mani anyway, so this was the trigger. Pulled the heads and the intake manifold. Need to order new head gaskets and some other parts to get it back together.
    tear down.jpg

    After the stock heads and intake were off, I put on the Edelbrock's and Edmunds intake just to cover the open holes. They look nice sitting there. Put in spark plugs and the oil fill/fuel pump assembly to cover those openings as well. Just like me to drop a washer or nut into an opening.
    Bling.jpg

    Looks like my next couple of weekends are booked...
     
  26. Was the head gasket the problem?
     
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  27. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Hard to tell. I hope so.


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  28. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 525

    Jeff34
    Member

    Yes. It was head gasket. I got new Best brand gaskets and installed new studs. Put on the Edelbrock heads with new nuts and washers from VanPelt. Torqued it down to 40, then 50. Ran it for 20 minutes to get up to temp. Let it sit for a couple of hours to cool down.
    When I went to re-torque at 50, the passenger side head cracked at the middle stud and drained all the water. . I spent the rest of the weekend drinking and thinking about what I did wrong. I pulled the heads off today, and noticed that all of the “hardened” steel washers had been deformed by the nuts. Seems strange that would happen. I took a file to one of the washers and it was very easily filed.
    Anybody know what the hardness of the washers should be? Because they’re easy to file, I don’t think they’re hard at all.
    Super bummed. The cracks are bad. And all the surfaces on the heads are now deformed.


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  29. OUCH!!!! I feel your pain.
     
  30. That would sure wreck the shit out of my day, and I am saying this while in the middle of a smaller scale disaster of my own. I hope you find the reason for this. Why it happened, just doesn't make sense to me.
    Bob
     

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