Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeff34, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Back on the ground. I like the front end stance, but need to raise it up. Stock wishbone doesn't work so well with the front this low unfortunately. And I need to add another leaf or two. Pic is a bit dark. I'll get a better picture later today. 20160826_145932937_iOS.jpg
     
  2. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,289

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Looks good. How much up travel do you have with it that low?
     
  3. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

  4. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

  5. Time for a dropped axle
     
  6. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 10,124

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    That height is perfect. Great work.
     
  7. Nobey
    Joined: May 28, 2011
    Posts: 1,171

    Nobey
    Member

    DANG, that little truck looks nice Jeff.....
     
  8. Jmorton27
    Joined: Jan 8, 2016
    Posts: 26

    Jmorton27
    Member

  9. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks for the comments, guys! I had to bring it back up since the spring was bottoming out, but not much. Not sure I can go dropped axle since I have mechanical brakes.
     
  10. I painted the spring packs in my pickup as an assembly. I assembled them with a healthy dose of graphite spray between each leaf and after they were assembled I painted the whole thing. I was trying to minimize paint build up in between the leaves as I had heard that can cause friction. I also chamfered and smoothed all the spring edges.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  11. Ah gotcha. You could probably get them to work but would have to re-engineer the pivot points. I switched to hydraulic when I lowered my 33 pickup

    image.jpeg
     
    Nova Thug and kidcampbell71 like this.
  12. Langan
    Joined: Oct 22, 2004
    Posts: 453

    Langan
    Member

    1.5 is plenty. Love the look
     
  13. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Need some help. I'm hoping to go on the Nor Cal Reliability Run next Saturday, but having a problem with the flathead. It starts and runs great cold, but if I drive it for a bit and stop, it won't restart. If I leave it sit for an hour, it starts again. I tried dumping gas in the carb, but that didn't do it. Thoughts?
     
  14. I'm going to guess gas is dripping from carb into intake?
    Too much gas vs your attempt at dumping some in
    Got another carb you can try?

    Truck is looking great by the way!!!
     
  15. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks Flow...
    I do have a 97 I could throw on. It's untested but worth a shot.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  16. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 782

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    Had same issue with our 51 Kaiser with flathead 6 and also on our 56 Nash with flathead 6. Both ran great until you shut them off, then good luck starting them for another hour or 2. Put electric fuel pumps on them both, and it fixed everything. I think it has something to do with fuel pump placement on the flatheads

    Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got the 97 on the truck last night and running. It will have to wait until later this week to get it tuned up and see if that solves the problem.
    I've got a 6V electric pump that I could put on, but will need to do some significant work to get that done. I've got the stock fuel line from the tank to the engine, which is a dual-tube fuel line (one large for fuel, one small for gauge). They seem to be brazed/soldered, or by some other method attached together. I've got to figure out how to separate the two so I can get a good connection to the fuel line.
     
  18. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 10,124

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Why oh why run an original fuel line? Please run new line along with your pump and be done with it.
     
  19. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,289

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    You guys this sounds more like vapor lock than fuel leakage. A 1/2" phenolic spacer will cure it. As will an electric pump, but for vastly different reasons. The gas evaporates out of the hot carb when you park it.
     
  20. Schltzie
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 13

    Schltzie
    Member
    from PA

    My_34_Front.JPG My_34_Truck_55_Caps.JPG

    Jeff, My 34 project to begin ! Question for you on Hinge Pins. Trying to take the drivers door off to replace door skin and fix the framework. Any tips? Pins are really stuck and I have heard the tools sometimes don't do the job. Thanks, Dave
     
    Jeff34 and Runnin shine like this.
  21. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Dave, I'm not sure how the hinge pins come out. I need to work on my drivers side door, but haven't got to it yet. I thought that the pins were just pressed in, but could be wrong. I'd try driving them out with a drift before I did anything more aggressive.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  22. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,289

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    They have a knurl at the top just under the head. I beat and heated mine up and ended up drilling them out with a .25 drill and hammering the shell out of the door. The pins are .283 or something weird.
     
  23. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,285

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not only is the knurl holding the pin in, but so is the ridge worn into it by the moving half of the hinge, and the rust from lack of oil over the last few decades.

    I've found it best to release as much pressure as possible by drilling into the head about 3/8" and if you are right down the center you should be able to sneak up on the outer diameter of the pin. Stop upsizing when you get out of the pin itself.

    Then use a punch from the bottom of the hinge. Make sure to support the hinge on the top side as you hammer on the punch from the bottom. A nice heavy dolly held by a helper works good. If the pin is still stuck too much, drill a 1/8" hole farther down the pin from the top to release more strength. Don't drill through the last 1/8" so the punch will have something to press against.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
    mkebaird and Runnin shine like this.
  24. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    So I need an opinion on a front shock mount idea I saw in another thread. Since I have mech brakes, and have not been able to find an "extended" spring perch bolt, I thought I might drill a hole in the wishbone and put the Lowe shock mount through that. Here's a picture of what I'm thinking. Here's the poll:

    ( ) - Great idea!
    ( ) - Not a good idea
    ( ) - Have you been drinking?

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  25. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,289

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Is there a problem with your lever shocks?
     
  26. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,289

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    But that doesn't look,like a bad idea.
     
  27. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 413

    Jeff34
    Member

    Well, they need rebuilt. And at 200 bux a pop, I thought I could add tube shocks cheaper


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 815

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not sure how long that bottom shock mount would last. Can the bottom be rotated 90 degrees to minimize stresses?
     
    Runnin shine likes this.
  29. DeucemanLt1
    Joined: Aug 15, 2014
    Posts: 143

    DeucemanLt1

    Not a good idea. Lower mount in wrong plane and shock is mounted to close to vertical.
     
  30. DeucemanLt1
    Joined: Aug 15, 2014
    Posts: 143

    DeucemanLt1

    Take a look at HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps posts 862,867 and 870.
    Not finished yet but good setup with good shock angle.
     
    Runnin shine likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.