Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeff34, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Grrrrr. Nope. Applied heat and still can't get it. Since I'm replacing the perches anyway can I just drill through the bolt? Stop just shy of the larger section where it passes into the bone?
     
  2. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Carefully grind the side of the nut with a small cut off wheel as far down as you dare. Then jam a cold chisel into the slot made by the grinder and give it a mighty whack! Should break the last of the nut loose and let you get the perch out. That is exactly how I did mine. They were pretty stuck.
     
  3. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    What Dumprat said.I actually ground a small cold chisel just for that job on my A front end.Expect trouble getting the perch out of the axle.I got mine out using a lot of heat (OA) and a drift that just would slide through the hole in the axle and a 4 lb hammer.
     
  4. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 1,947

    nunattax
    Member

  5. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got it! David DiFalco walked by this AM with his dog and we talked about his story on the HAMB and my stubborn perch nut. I applied more heat until it was cherry red and put the long bar and 6 pt socket on it. I thought I might just round over the nut, but it came off.
    Now on to the perch, which seems to be stuck in the axle pretty good.
     
  6. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    David recommend this too. Split the nut. I just wanted to try with more heat first.
     
  7. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    No luck with the left spring perch bolt. Modified a prop puller to press it out. Heated the shit out of the axle (glowing) and still couldn't get it to budge. I don't want to damage the axle or the wishbone so it's going to DiFalco's shop next week to see if he can get it out unless there are any other suggestions???? ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469912044.824874.jpg
     
  8. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    On a positive note, I got the front spring pack cleaned up and ready to put back in! Removed 4 leaves and reverse eyed the main ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469919131.656822.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 and bengeltiger like this.
  9. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Really want to get this back on the ground so I can start terrorizing the neighborhood again ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469920401.601338.jpg
     
  10. Great pick up. Keep posting.
     
  11. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 3,746

    Mart
    Member

  12. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    So, stupid questions ... I've taken the flap wheel to my leaves, and now I want to put this all back together again. Do I paint them individually or as an assembly?
    Second question; do I need the rubber spacers for the tie rod and drag link ends?
    Help me Obi-Wan!
     
  13. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Oh, and David DiFalco was able to separate the perch bolt from the axle and wishbone with some effort. I'm grateful for that.
     
    Runnin shine likes this.
  14. I painted my spring leaves individually, just a thin coat though.
    I believe the rubber spacers of which you speak are the grease seals?
    also has a tin shield to hold their shape. In which case, yes, you need them.
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  15. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,083

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    As Flowmeister said, paint them individually
     
  16. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thank you both for the advice.
    I think the rubber parts are grease seals...mine were gone, and replaced with years of built up dirt and grime...
     
  17. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Here's a couple of pictures of the removed perch bolt. He had to put the axle/wishbone in the mill and plunge through the perch bolt without damaging the axle or wishbone. You can see how much he hogged out before he got it to break free...Now I'm back on track for re-assembly (well, after I get my kingpin bushings replaced) of the front end.

    20160805_211118687_iOS.jpg 20160805_211051438_iOS.jpg 20160805_211104012_iOS.jpg
     
    AHotRod likes this.
  18. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    One more pic for a Sunday afternoon ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1470608723.502218.jpg
     
    AHotRod and jerseyboy like this.
  19. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    What is the spring for?
     
  20. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,858

    Runnin shine
    Member

    So the hook doesn't bounce out.
     
    AHotRod likes this.
  21. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

  22. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Yup. Bumpy trails on the ranch...
     
  23. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    I removed my king pins from the spindle housings, and had intended to replace the bushings and king pins. Before I did that, I measured the play in the kingpin to see if it was really necessary. Problem is, I don't know what an acceptable amount of play is for a kingpin. There is some wear on the kingpins where they contact the bearing surfaces, but not too bad.
    I measured the movement of the kingpin in the bushing with a dial indicator. The top of the kingpin is tight, and there is very little movement. The bottom of the kingpin has about .012" play total.
    I didn't really have problems with steering or any front end wobble, etc. So, do I need to replace these, or just re-assemble and run them?

    The pic below is not my truck, just used to point to the area in question.

    kingpin.jpg
     
  24. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Here's a short video.

    Good? Bad? Ugly????

     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2016
  25. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    New bushing time!
     
    greaser likes this.
  26. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

  27. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Not a bad idea.
     
  28. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,874

    brokenspoke
    Member

    Napa sells slip plate paint in a spray can
     
    AHotRod likes this.
  29. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

  30. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got the front end in. King pins and bushing should arrive tomorrow. Hope to have this back on the growing next weekend. I may need to put a leaf back in. Seems awful low. We'll see how it sits soon. [​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.