Technical 1933 with 8BA.

Can anyone help me with this. I have just put a 8 BA in my 33 cabriolet. And the pulleys are to far out. Crossmember is in the way. Any good suggestions without cut in the frame or change camshaft to get it down


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I think you really need to put your radiator in so you can address the total picture. Fan clearance etc.

 

The early engines had the fan pulley system closer to the block...
Also looks like your motor mounts on the crossmember sit low, memory says mine were almost flush with the top edge of the frame rail...

 

they just don't fit in a Model 40.

You really need a pre-49, or change everything over to a old style flathead. and when I say everything, I mean camshaft, distributor, front cover, pumps, pulleys, everything.

Only other choice is to cut the firewall, and move everything back.

 

They do fit..I've built several coupe with 8ba's..But the 59ab style fits nicer...

 

they do fit..but with a lot of fussin' and swearin'!..You either have to raise the engine up or notch stuff to get clearance..Even then not much room for a fan.. I've built several 33-34's and I prefer the 59ab style front dress.. It just fits nicer..Run a stock style generator with fan and you are golden!

 

Hi there. Okej, i understand that you are the guys to ask.. In my case i can make all of the part with changing front end of motor or kill firewall or cut crossmember. But i want to make it as easy as possible... I can raise the engine 3 in, But i don't know if the x after the trans will work like that? Any pics?

 

I make this on an old ( probably the firs known in U.K.) Hotrod so the Crossmember is strange.. Had both banger and V8 in its history..

 

I'd change over the 8ba with an earlier cam, distributor and pulleys. It's probably just as much work and expense as adapting an 8ba in that frame with less frustration and better looks.


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Jimmy, I have some really good pics of 59 engine in a stock 34 chassis. Will post them tomorrow for you. I dislike cutting firewalls because you screw up the foot box. Your cross member looks to be original and unmodified. My suggestion would be to change to 59 block front components.

 

This is the old school fix.

This is mocked up to get correct engine position. I am not going to retain double crank pulley, but you can add mechanical fan to generator mount if you want to keep it. Small shim was added to mount, it will be replaced with larger washers. Engine is bolted to transmission with chatter rods hooked up. There is plenty of firewall clearance for oil breather and throttle linkage. U shaped riser on motor mount is original Ford part. Some suppliers do not have the correct one. Early Ford Store in San Dimas has the correct part. You need to make sure you have enough clearance on bottom pulley to install fan belt.

 

Have one in mine what a pain. Firewall pushed back 1/2 inch in middle. Early water pumps and chevy dist. to clear fan belts. Notch in fuel pump stand to clear stock gas pedal. lots more little things I don't even remember.

 

My crossmember looks like this.


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Never have seen one like that, however it still looks like using the U style risers will work with early pumps. The risers are made so they take in the wider pump mounts. They not only elevate the motor with the stock mount but also off set the mounting bolts.

 

Do yourself a HUGE favor and change over the front of the 8BA to the earlier 39 - 48 or so front --> water pumps, timing cover, camshaft, crab distributor, single sheeve crank pulley, etc.. Yes, changing the cam is a big fat bummer - but compared to hacking the firewall, lifting the engine up way too high, etc -- it is by FAR the best option. You want the engine to sit at the same height as the original, you don't want to cut-up the cross-member and by no means screw up your firewall. Good luck . . . take your time and do it right!

B&S

 

View attachment 3532937

Exactly. Look at the difference on the crank pulley. The 8BA pulley forces the engine back and higher to clear the cross member. Now look aty the earlier crank pulley, the sheeves are set back deeper which allows the whole motor to mover forward, this will allow you to use the existing motor mount holes with the correct C spacer.

You need to change the whole front of the motor and the cam to get the room you are looking for.

 

no room for the U-bolts. How are you going to install a fan belt?

 

I machined off the second pulley, I don't need it. Those were old photos from when I started. When I start my build thread you will be able to see it all fits together quite nicely.