1933 Plymouth PD Coupe Craigslist Find

thank you for the advice , any tools on what i need where to purchase i am always gratefull for as well.

now if i can get gold for the weight of that trunk i may be able to buy one already fixed up , giggles


this morning we moved this in to back of yard with a seriously to big of a backhoe to lift it gently. i'm still way over heated doing this and i think my heart is still on a race track. at least its in backyard out of driveway so now to gather more parts.

still need some doors , tried ebay last night and one i purchased was a sedan door but reserve not met , grrrr. so why did i bother. and would a sedan door be able to use on a coupe ?

hugs

Jen

 

A two door sedan door may work.

 

would be a bit long i think and take some work to shorten that up but maybe. i just dont know if sedan is wide enough or what can possibly fit

more calls done this morning and possible more parts found just waiting to hear the prices which may send me to the hospital after. some prices scare the heck out of me already .

Jen

 

I love those early Plymouths but you sir are a more brave man than I...Unfortunatly that is probably about the condition of just about any early 30's body I will be able to afford! Good luck I can't wait to see where this goes!

 

I would much rather bang on metal than fix rust from the knee down.good score .ill keep an eye out for doors.

 

That will buff right out..hahaha Good luck, cant wait to see your progress!

 

from what i am seeing anymore for 1930s cars this is about what to expect unless you spending alot of money out to buy one in nicer condition.

my roomate said same when we seen it , rather work on something with dents then something that is completely rusted out

just heard from a friend who purchased a 1933 plymouth tudor from phoenix ariz says it has a nice 1933 grill. now i have to convince him that he doesnt need that grill giggles

well if you can find that buffer for me i will try it as i think we start on the front and work from there.

Jen

 

Slow down a bit. No need to find it all in one week unless you are rich. Stuff will turn up at your price, if you persevere.

Been there, and still there I am putting a 32 together with very limited funds. Things seem to pop up when I need them.

 

i have to agree , the prices i am hearing is very depressing to me. either that or i think of prices i would pay versus what someone else will pay.

it will be a very long term project and i do have more partys sending me emails with pictures of what they have . sometimes a price is fair and other times i think they want to keep it more than they want to sell it.

Jen

 

ive got a set of regulaters if you find some shells

 

At first glance it is like WTF !!!!!! But after you get a closer look all of that is reversable. I think the secret is a lot of little pushes as opposed to trying to move masses of metal at one shot..........a little here a little there.

In a lot of respects these bodies were a lot prettier than some we rodders hold in high esteem, and they already look chopped. One thing for sure, if you aren't a bodyman now, you will be when you are done.

I think I would get the door jams to the proper dimensions first (taken from a known good body) and then build a framework out of 1 x 1 tubing, cross braced, so that dimension won't change as you push the rest. Buy yourself a portapower from HF and just start moving things a bit and keep checking your measurements. With some creativity and lots of pieces of wood for shimming, you will start to see it go back. Keep thinking about Christine when she was healing herself !

Don

 

very well said..

 

Ohh Yeah, I LIKE IT

 

Definitely a project !

4TTRUK

 

looking at that broken frame horn, it must've been a hell of a ride when they rolled that sucker back in the day.

 

I cant wait to follow along on this build!!!

 

very good suggestions , thank you

i hadnt thought it was a possible roll . what i was think it was slid down some raven at one point . i know they cut the windshield post and about mid point of door way at bottom has been cut so i thought maybe that it was used as a orchard buggy and this may explain the frame horn breaking. wish this car could talk it be interested to hear what it has been through.


Jen

 

If ya work on it late at night ..... after several cold beers, if the car don't talk to you, you'll probably talk to yourself. Have fun. Learning is an adventure. Buy the little pamphlet The Key to Metal Bumping from Eastwood. NEVER GIVE UP. Work on it every week and accomplish SOMETHING. As time passes it will look better.

 

I'm no bodyman, so you can take this for what it is worth, but here is what I think I would do. The worst damage is obviously that cowl section where it looks like a telephone pole fell on it. Rather than trying to shove it back into place while attached to the firewall, I think I would make a long slice along the seam where the cowl top meets the firewall. It would cut like butter with an air saw and relieve a lot of the strain in that area.

I would forget about doing anything with the firewall initially, and just concentrate on pushing the cowl top back into it's former shape. Once that is done you could cut out the firewall and work on it on a flat surface to flatten it back out, or maybe just build a new firewall out of 18 gauge steel.

The yellow line on your picture is what I am talking about cutting. Like I said, I am not a bodyman, just a shadetree car buildder.

Don

 

Hi i have fixed something like this in the past and this is how i did it.I put sideways tention on the A piller while jacking the cowl up(use some wood to spread the load of the jack) also hammering the crease in the firewall all the time makeing shure i keep the tention firm but not pulling too hard.In the end what you are trying to do is reverse the damage start at the worst part and ease the whole thing out,if you take your time there should be no need to cut anything.Remember to measure every thing on a regular basis so you know when everything is square.Hope this helps.

 

Currently helping a friend with a 33 Plymouth Coupe. Search for thread "uncle Ricks 33 Plymouth". We started out with a lot less parts than you, but I will say we had a lot less dents. Not an easy car to find steel parts for. They do make some of the lower body and cowl patch panels in steel. We used Ford rear wheel wells. You certainly can be creative with this one. I would start by getting your chassis set up. That was a big help or us and allowed us to figure out the proper dimentions for mounting the body.
Good luck and have fun with this one.

 

i had thought about doing this as well when i first seen the car to make it easier to fix the damage. others have said it can be done without doing this . then i thought maybe i could find another cowl . but i will try method one of trying to push it back up with hydralic jack with block of wood and see how it reacts if i dont like the way its going then i will rethink this approach

this is approach i will try first is to push this back up , hopefully this works as i dont wish to make a bigger mess out of it then it already is. i have had thoughts about finding another cowl section.

that will be a nice car when finished. i have some rustout in one of the wheel wheels and a little bit in that floor area. some in the back pan area from what i can tell. i havent been able to open the trunk yet as its still locked. and i cant beleive how the trunk handle has survived all of those in very nice condition. makes me think someone found one and put it on there as i would have thought it been damaged just like the rest of the trunk lid has been

thank you everyone for your help and advice. found someone with 6 of these cars so he is going to measure doors of his to see what fits this coupe besides just coupe doors. i was told sedan door is correct width just height is different maybe this will be a option as coupe doors seem to be pretty hard to find or very very expensive from the two i already located and both those are drivers side.

Jen

 

The above method will get the bulk out but there will still be alot of hammering and shrinking to be done after as the metal is already streched,also as you push the dent up make shure to watch the edge and corners of the wood so you dont end up stretching the metal in these areas as the damaged area rises.

 

Just a suggestion, if you live near a technical school, most have a beginners body course that takes about 6-8 weeks and believe or not you can learn quite a bit about removing dents and even how to mig weld body panels and use a porta power. My son and I took a class and towards the latter part of the course I brought my own vehicle in and we pulled a quarter panel back into place that everyone said we should just replace. I thought, what the heck, try fixing it first and if it doesn't work, replace it. With a little gentle pushing and pulling and hammering only a skim coat of filler was needed. As a side note, my son took the next course on painting and this has helped us in all of our builds. Well worth the time spent.

 

I wish you were closer I would give you a great deal on an extra cowl I have.
I found two of these a couple yrs ago and I grabbed the two door but I also got the cowl from the 4 door as a spare.




Sadly I havnt done a thing w/ the car since I got it and Im almost thinking its time to sell.

good luck on the build and take alot of pics for us.

jeff

 

sent you a private message , maybe we can figure something out i dont know. its a long distance i know that but i have had other items sent to me from new york before

wish i was closer as well as likely i would purchase what you have . anything small can be shipped. bigger items by greyhound

Jen

 

You'll be a heck of a body man when your done! Nice find.

 

Just find a 4 door parts body, youll get all the parts you need from it.

jeff

 

i'm trying , found one that was listed as 1933 but its a 1934 and so the doors wont fit this body else i would have bought that

Jen

 

Lots of work required on the body it can be saved though, Good-luck enjoy the build....

I saved a steel 1933 Dodge Roadster, working along side a friend and fellow club member who has saved many cars over the years.