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Projects 1933 Olds F33

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ManualOldsOnly, Dec 22, 2021.

  1. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    Hey all starting a new thread for my 1933 Oldsmobile f33 Build. Car was last documented on the road 1974 i belive. The car was pulled from a collapsing barn in Connecticut. Heres aome pictures progress to come.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 22, 2021
  2. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,094

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    An Olds in an Olds would be nice;)
    Plans are?
     
  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,145

    rusty valley
    Member

    Very cool! I have one of those tail lights, just need the rest of the car now
     
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  4. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    I am definitely trying to keep it an olds. My back up if the motor wont make it is tro drop in the olds straight 8 but i feel pretty strongly i can save the engine
     

  5. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    In fact so as far as the engine goes i have already got the motor turning incredibly smooth. One stuck, one bent, and one burnt valve later the top end of the motor is done. With new gaskets. Also sand blasted and powder coated the valve cover so they seal up nice and look a bit better. I also want to keep as much of the engine patina as possible cause i think it actually looks pretty nice.
     

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  6. rtp
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 200

    rtp
    Member

    Patina = rust or corrsion that needs to be fixed but does not get fixed
     
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  7. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    Floors have been officially pulled and dropped off at my fabricator friend's shop so we can start looking at making new pieces. The rest of the floor supports/braces which are wood, of course, look and feel really good so i will just treat them and let them be. While the floors are out i figure this is a really good time to pull the knee shocks and rebuild them. Go over all brake/clutch/etc. Linkages and cables. And also take a moment to look at possibly swapping the trans for something with over drive.
     

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  8. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,414

    vtx1800
    Member

    It looks sooo nice now, usually I want to put a later drive train in....in this case...I'd certianly consider leaving the engine stock, car just has a great "look":)
     
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  9. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    O yeah no the engine will be pretty darn stock im only planning on a few modifications. Such as an oil filter, valve for the heater (right now its just plumbed up to constantly have heat) probably convert the road draft tube. Might swap the carb out for a 2 bbl instead of single bbl. And i might add vac advnace might not still debating on that.

    Other wise the motor got its valve job of course and ill chack the babbit bearings to make sure theyre ok and clean thw oil pan cause im sure it sludgy. I'll probably rebuild the oil pump too while im in there. And then ill rebuild the water pump and the motor should be ready to run
     
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  10. carbking
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,291

    carbking
    Member

    Another option, assuming the EC-22 carb is present, might be to swap out the carb for a later (even 1 year later) original Olds single barrel for the 6.

    The Stromberg EC-22 was not a bad carburetor, but it was the last variation on the EC carbs, and was a one year, one make, one model only; the newer carbs are technologically better, and parts for the later carbs are MUCH more readily available, thus less expensive.

    Would work better than a two-barrel if you use a 2->1 adapter. The 2->1 adapters are basically for those with more dollars than sense. :p

    If you use the slightly later Olds carb, probably no one would know except you and me (and I promise not to tell ;) )

    Jon
     
  11. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    Hmm interesting food for thought. I do have the one year only ec-22 but i also already have a rebuilt Holley 94 i could strap on. I figured the 94 would have a lot more "pep" LOL but again nothing is set in stone. Maybe i throw the 94 on for now to just get it running and play with the ec22 later who knows it would be interesting to see the proformance differences. (Not just HP) but fuel milage throttle response etc. Might be a fun experiment.
     
  12. carbking
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,291

    carbking
    Member

    The 94 will run worse through an adapter (might run worse if you had a 2-barrel intake), and use at least 50 percent more gasoline than the Stromberg.

    Jon.
     
  13. Stan Back
    Joined: Mar 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,378

    Stan Back
    Member
    from California

    You can get an "overdrive" with a slightly larger rear tire. The motor might not pull a lot more with a standard overdrive.
     
  14. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    It should be fine I've had pretty good luck with these motors with t5s behind them. Not 100% sure im gonna go with that trans yet but i do have 3 of them already at my house LOL. I might check out other closer period options such as the packard OD or something but we shall see.
     
  15. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    Ok haven't posted in a while hope everyone had good holidays.
    I started back on the olds with the coolant system.
    Took apart the housing and found eveything was still there so i decided to test the thermostat in a pot of hot water on the stove and found it worked! So thats good news! I'll just clean all the pieces up and put them back togther. I might powder coat the housing im not sure yet.
     

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  16. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 1,884

    6sally6
    Member

    Guess I couldn't talk you into re-grinding the cam for a boost in power!? (You may need it IF you try to put an OD behind it). A little more lift and duration could give a dab more "much needed" power if you're planning on driving it on the freeways to shows or get togethers............
    6sally6
     
  17. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    Im not against the idea I dont know a ton about modifying these motors. But im also considering new ways to milk more power out of this slug. Im also considering removing the fan and adding electric just for that little extra oomf. They have tons of torque just no top end
     
  18. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 1,884

    6sally6
    Member

    What's the stroke & bore?
    That will tell a lot about bumping up performance.
    I'm not suggesting a snotty cam with a 2000 RPM idle but........IF you already have an abundance of torque....sacrificing a little of that for a good bit more top end could be a good thing.
    A little clean up porting....better exhaust and intake breathing ...bump the CR a dab....little more lift and duration and you have just "improved" on old tech a bunch!
    Me tinks,
    6sally6
     
  19. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,809

    brady1929
    Member

  20. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    I'm not sure qhat the bore and stroke is off hand I'd have to look it up. But definitely not a bad idea as far as improvments on the ole girl for now I'm gonna try my best not to pull the motor but also if i have to ill definitely go down that route
     
  21. ManualOldsOnly
    Joined: Feb 15, 2021
    Posts: 47

    ManualOldsOnly

    I was able to find a NOS water pump rebuild kit so i just finsihed that up. It was surprisingly not very difficult. New shaft/impeller and new brass. the ball bearing seamed fine so i cleaned it up re greased it and put it back in. And of course put new packing material in it. Sand blasted the body, fan, and pully and then powdercoated it all. I went with silver since someone painted the engine that color seems nice and enough and differnt from the ussual stock green.
     

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