Ok, I need some opinions here to help give me a little direction. In another thread I spoke of wanting to build a late'31-'34 Ford pickup. I got the engine question settled when I was offered a free '55 Cadillac 331. A buddy of mine who is moving just sold his '33 coupe. Turns out he has a good, straight, undamaged '33-'34 frame in the rafters of his garage and offered it to me for $1200. I don't even have the truck yet but my brain says to buy the frame and get the chassis set up while looking for a body. Heck, when I find a truck the 1st thing I'd do anyway is blow it apart and start on the chassis so why not get a head start? But on the other hand I might get a bunch of work invested in this chassis and then find the perfect '31 body. You guys tell me what you think. Is $1200 too much for a good stock '33-'34 frame?
Without knowing the whole project it is hard to comment. You do realize that the '33-'34 frame is longer than the '32 frame. The '28-'31 frame is shorter than the '32, narrower and flat on the top. Have you looked at the frame drawings here: http://www.wescottsauto.com/SubIndexes/Techindex.html It sounds like a good deal on the frame but trying to put the wrong sheetmetal on could become a nightmare that you don't need. Charlie Stephens
You should also realize that the truck frame is different from a car frame but usable. The 32-34 cab will fit on either frame but the wb is 106 vs 112. The 34 chassis for $1200 is a good deal if in good shape.
That's a little mis-leading. 32 car and pickup truck frames are the same (106" WB). 33/34 car and pickup truck frames are the same (112" WB). Yes, a 32-34 cab will fit on either a 32 or 33/34 frame. A 32 bed won't fit on a 33/34 frame without modification, and vice versa.
Thanks, just a note to remind you that 33/4 frames are not the same for cars and trucks. The truck frame has no holes for the hood aprons but could be drilled. I have built both 32 and 33/4 trucks in my lifetime. I prefer the 33/4 frames for the WB.
If you are going to change to a dropped front crossmember, eliminate the X in favor of tubing crossmembers and not use the rear buggy spring then consider just buying a set of reproduction 33-34 rails for about 700-900 dollars. Thats if you are going to modify everything but the side rails. Thats the way I went but it was because my frame was rusted in two in a few places making it unusable.
I would probably buy the frame and go ahead building it. Especially if it has papers. Just keep your options open to that 33 or 34 coupe body that might just pop up before a pick-up cab. Well, a guy can dream!
Thinking about just going with the dropped axle and reversed eye spring up front. The frame is straight and appears very solid other than some minor pitting in one isolated area. By papers if you mean a title there is none, just a frame to start setting up. I have a'57-58 Ford 9" that should be perfect width, steer thru a Vega box, run the mostly stock 331 Caddy thru a 700R4.................there I go dreaming again! 56don you could just sell me your truck and save me alot of work!
Get the frame can't get hurt for that price. And when you do the truck do the 33-34 way more room in the cab than any other. Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do a little searching in the archives on the Vega box. From what I have read, not personal experience, you would probably begetter off with a F100 pickup box if it would fit. Charlie Stephens
I've heard positive and negative about both but yes, I'll do some more digging when the time comes. Went and bought the frame today. Nice straight and rust-free virgin frame never cut on or modified in any way. Still has the stock center cross member. Found a crack in the front cross-member and some pitting in a small area near the original battery location but other than that it looks great. I'll post a pic when I get it picked up.
Well I bought the frame and also bought a super nice '33 pickup cab. My quandary now is do I find or build a 33-34 bed and build it as a '33-'34 or sell the '34 frame and buy a new '32 chassis and bed and build it as a '32? Decisions, decisions.........
Have you seen the beds that Mack Products sells? Get one of their catalogs, if you don't buy a bed from them there are still a lot of small parts that you may need. Charlie Stephens
33-34 PU frames don't have holes in the sides, because running boards mount UNDER frame 34 PU have gas tank located behind rear axle, 32 and early 33 under the seat, I think late 33 -and 34 pu have 2 inches more room than 32 pu 32 beds way longer behind rear axle, (ugly) 32 Pu. doesn't have welded in firewall, 33-34 do.. front fenders mount different. hood , of course, different. 33-34 radiator mounts ahead of cross member. '32 on top.. several other differences, I forget, I am old.......
I agree that the '32-'34 stock beds look too long. It looked a little better on the '33-'34 because Ford moved the rear axle back and it didn't have that long overhang in the back like the '32. I'm leaning toward selling the '34 frame I just bought. I hate to because it is so nice but I'd be way ahead purchasing a Brookville '32 basic chassis and using one of their custom '32 beds with the '33 cab. This will also allow me to run a stock passenger car fuel tank. You can get new steel fenders and running boards to fit that setup also. Part of me hates to plunk down the cash for new components but I'll be on the road a lot faster than I would cleaning and repairing original stuff. All of the '32 components are reproduced and readily available which is a big plus.
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