The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Elvis100, Jan 13, 2018.
couple harbor freight engine stands and some 2X2 tubing
Do you find the stands will hold the weight? Do you have any issues with binding on the while turning it around like you would if an engine was on it?
Seems to be doing fine, I’m probably close to the max weight that I’m going to be. Once I finish fitting the doors, the body will come off and I’ll use it to paint the frame. I did replace the lower horizontal with a longer piece and installed some angle iron gussets. It’s not up high enough for a complete rotation, but I get a very stable 95 degrees.
Here are a couple pictures with more detail when I built it for my 3 window
I had to remake the wooden b-pillars to get a better fit. Unlike metal, you pretty much have to start over. Once I got them installed, I did a test fit of the drivers door. The lines are looking much better. I ended up moving the top of the B out about 7/8 inch on both sides.
Got the “hoop” rear surround installed. Instead of riveting the b-pillar upper brackets, I made 1/4-20 bolts with waffle heads to resemble the ford rivets. This will make it easier when I take it apart again. Also, got the package tray sitting in position….now I have a place to pile tools.
That is exactly what I thought you did. Thank you for all the info and pics. Its a great build so far so keep the updates coming.
Nice, can you explain a bit on HOW THE HECK YOU "MADE" these awesome bolt heads.
I chucked up the threads of a 1/4-20 bold in my drill, profiled the flats off and slimmed the head down using a angle grinder with a flap wheel. Could also be done in a lathe. I used an anvil with a hole just a little larger than the bolt and set it in the hole so just my new round head was showing. Heated to red hot with oxyacetylene torch and waffled it with a waffle patterned rivet set.
Forgot to upload the pictures
^^^^^well there you go with an interesting technique....kinda like blacksmithing in a way.
Making up the seat back out of the same red oak.
Made the seat riser and the small L-bracket that mounts in the center of the seat riser. The metal pegs align with corresponding holes in the bottom of the seat cushion and fix it in position. I guess you could put a tool kit under the seat.
Gluing the seat bottom together
Installed the strengthening brackets on the seat back (another excellent reproduction made by Bill Monzo) and the seat back springs. Got the first coat of varnish on the seat bottom. I’m only doing two coats on the seat parts because they will be covered. I’ll do at least one more coat on the package tray once I get closer to final assembly. Rotated the body to weld up a couple extra holes I drilled mounting the seat riser. Was a good opportunity to completely clean up.
Hard to believe I could teach you anything, but...in the model T world, we mix 50/50 linseed oil and turpentine to treat the wood wheels. thinning down with turpentine allows it to soak in deeper, and of coarse the linseed oil will help repel water, yet allow the wood to breath. I also do this to any wood on the interior of my old ford projects. cheap, and effective. best wishes, love your skills, your cars, and thanks again for posting all your progress for our entertainment
I used the linseed oil and turpentine receipt on most of the wood in the car. I have had problems with water staining both with and without the linseed treatment. Maybe it’s the red oak…or maybe some other particulate contamination.. figured if this “marine” varnish was good enough for boats….
Finished welding those holes on the floor. Did the second coat on the seat bottom, I’ll attach the springs and take the seat to the upholstery shop tomorrow.
Installed the quarter panel caps. These snap over a keeper on the top of the quarter panel just behind the doors. I have some originals that have been through a meat grinder, so I’m using these reproduction caps also made by Bill Monzo. Really excellent!
The seat is off to the upholstery shop…going to be a few months. Here is the leather swatch
Still a little more adjustment, but got the passenger door on
Very satisfying after five years of collecting parts
Got the driver door on
The drivers door was a lot more difficult to get the latch striker to line up.
Happy Birthday Hamber...Candles, Cake and Goodtimes Elvis...
The bottom and edge and corner of my trunk lid inner are a bit lacy. I’m going to make the patch in 3 or 4 parts.
Thanks for keeping the details posted. Your fabricating skills are amazing!
Let me know if you want to sell one of those grilles hanging on the wall to fund this project.....
Easing back into it after vacation. Made a small batch of top bows and set aside one set for myself. Don’t worry, I’m going to make some stainless steel top irons for myself. Just checking out the chop
Here is another side project that I just finished up. The rear and bottom wood for a passenger door for a friends car out in California
Just checking in on the progress. Looks awesome.
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