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Projects 1933/34 ford roadster project

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Elvis100, Jan 13, 2018.

  1. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Thanks.

    couple harbor freight engine stands and some 2X2 tubing
     
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  2. Do you find the stands will hold the weight? Do you have any issues with binding on the while turning it around like you would if an engine was on it?
     
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  3. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Seems to be doing fine, I’m probably close to the max weight that I’m going to be. Once I finish fitting the doors, the body will come off and I’ll use it to paint the frame. I did replace the lower horizontal with a longer piece and installed some angle iron gussets. It’s not up high enough for a complete rotation, but I get a very stable 95 degrees.
     
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  4. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Here are a couple pictures with more detail when I built it for my 3 window
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    I had to remake the wooden b-pillars to get a better fit. Unlike metal, you pretty much have to start over. Once I got them installed, I did a test fit of the drivers door. The lines are looking much better. I ended up moving the top of the B out about 7/8 inch on both sides.
     

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  6. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Got the “hoop” rear surround installed. Instead of riveting the b-pillar upper brackets, I made 1/4-20 bolts with waffle heads to resemble the ford rivets. This will make it easier when I take it apart again. Also, got the package tray sitting in position….now I have a place to pile tools.
     

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  7. That is exactly what I thought you did. Thank you for all the info and pics. Its a great build so far so keep the updates coming.
     
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  8. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 37,032

    loudbang
    Member


    Nice, can you explain a bit on HOW THE HECK YOU "MADE" these awesome bolt heads. :)

    1.jpg
     
  9. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Thanks.

    I chucked up the threads of a 1/4-20 bold in my drill, profiled the flats off and slimmed the head down using a angle grinder with a flap wheel. Could also be done in a lathe. I used an anvil with a hole just a little larger than the bolt and set it in the hole so just my new round head was showing. Heated to red hot with oxyacetylene torch and waffled it with a waffle patterned rivet set.
     

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  10. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Forgot to upload the pictures
     

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  11. ^^^^^well there you go with an interesting technique....kinda like blacksmithing in a way.
     
  12. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Making up the seat back out of the same red oak.
     

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  13. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Made the seat riser and the small L-bracket that mounts in the center of the seat riser. The metal pegs align with corresponding holes in the bottom of the seat cushion and fix it in position. I guess you could put a tool kit under the seat.
     

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  14. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Gluing the seat bottom together
     

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  15. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Installed the strengthening brackets on the seat back (another excellent reproduction made by Bill Monzo) and the seat back springs. Got the first coat of varnish on the seat bottom. I’m only doing two coats on the seat parts because they will be covered. I’ll do at least one more coat on the package tray once I get closer to final assembly. Rotated the body to weld up a couple extra holes I drilled mounting the seat riser. Was a good opportunity to completely clean up.
     

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  16. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,573

    rusty valley
    Member

    Hard to believe I could teach you anything, but...in the model T world, we mix 50/50 linseed oil and turpentine to treat the wood wheels. thinning down with turpentine allows it to soak in deeper, and of coarse the linseed oil will help repel water, yet allow the wood to breath. I also do this to any wood on the interior of my old ford projects. cheap, and effective. best wishes, love your skills, your cars, and thanks again for posting all your progress for our entertainment
     
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  17. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Thanks,
    I used the linseed oil and turpentine receipt on most of the wood in the car. I have had problems with water staining both with and without the linseed treatment. Maybe it’s the red oak…or maybe some other particulate contamination.. figured if this “marine” varnish was good enough for boats….
     
  18. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Finished welding those holes on the floor. Did the second coat on the seat bottom, I’ll attach the springs and take the seat to the upholstery shop tomorrow.

    Installed the quarter panel caps. These snap over a keeper on the top of the quarter panel just behind the doors. I have some originals that have been through a meat grinder, so I’m using these reproduction caps also made by Bill Monzo. Really excellent!
     

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  19. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    The seat is off to the upholstery shop…going to be a few months. Here is the leather swatch
     

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  20. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Still a little more adjustment, but got the passenger door on
     

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  21. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Very satisfying after five years of collecting parts

     
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  22. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Got the driver door on
     

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  23. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    The drivers door was a lot more difficult to get the latch striker to line up.
     
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  24. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 20,120

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Happy Birthday Hamber...Candles, Cake and Goodtimes Elvis...;)
     
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  25. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    The bottom and edge and corner of my trunk lid inner are a bit lacy. I’m going to make the patch in 3 or 4 parts.
     

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  26. Gnater
    Joined: Jan 7, 2020
    Posts: 45

    Gnater

    Thanks for keeping the details posted. Your fabricating skills are amazing!

    Let me know if you want to sell one of those grilles hanging on the wall to fund this project..... :)
     
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  27. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Easing back into it after vacation. Made a small batch of top bows and set aside one set for myself. Don’t worry, I’m going to make some stainless steel top irons for myself. Just checking out the chop
     

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  28. Elvis100
    Joined: May 21, 2016
    Posts: 566

    Elvis100

    Here is another side project that I just finished up. The rear and bottom wood for a passenger door for a friends car out in California
     

    Attached Files:

  29. Just checking in on the progress. Looks awesome.
     

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