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Hot Rods 1932 Roadster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CTaulbert, Mar 7, 2011.

  1. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,265

    Stovebolt
    Member

    Just re-visitng this awesome thread, and was wondering what firewall you used - it doesn't seem to come up when you described the issues with it.

    Thanks
     
  2. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    Stovebolt - I ended up using the same firewall. Most of the problem was that this was my first '32 and I didn't realize that the seal was as thick as it was for the firewall - I expected it to be a bit tighter. Anyway, that firewall is a nice piece and everything is fitting nice.

     
  3. Jimmy Tee
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 579

    Jimmy Tee
    Member

    That looks Brilliant.... Great idea. It looks so much cleaner than that Flat mounting panel. But does this mean you have to have the hood on all the time or there an option for the latch to be removed (without unscrewing it). I guess the spring loading would have it sticking out sideways. I was thinking if the bottom part was open you could slide the hook section off, if you wanted to run open hood.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2011
  4. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,265

    Stovebolt
    Member

    Thanks for the reply to my question. It seems as though I didn't ask the "right" question.

    What I meant was...... who made the firewall?
     
  5. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I worked the headlight mounts a little more today. They still need another filing, but they're pretty close. Here's a closeup of one:

    [​IMG]

    I took advantage of the nice weather today and rolled the car back outside. I'm going to work on the floor this week most likely. I'm also planning on mounting the '39 taillights and license plate to the tail pan, so I may get those rounded up this week.

    A buddy of mine stopped by today and took some photos of the car with his nice camera...here's a few

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    beautiful roadster ..
     
  7. moter
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    moter
    Member

    Looking awesome! Glad to see you didnt mount the windshield layed way back
     
  8. Buckster
    Joined: May 3, 2010
    Posts: 222

    Buckster
    Member

    Are you using a bushing on the rear spring/shackle mounts? If so, what material?
     
  9. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    Eaton made the spring with some bronze bushings, but I swapped them out for some poly Pete & Jakes bushings. I have the same on the front.

     
  10. John McLeod
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 31

    John McLeod
    Member
    from Boyne City

  11. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I got a few parts in today for the car from Baxter Ford (my favorite parts place). They had this NOS '40s Ford accessory license plate frame. Unfortunately, it's missing of the the trim caps. I'm thinking about TIG'ing the upper and lower pieces together so that the only seams are along the sides. If I can find another trim cap, or a matching pair of something else, I'll hide the seams with those.

    [​IMG]

    Anyone have one of these?

    [​IMG]
     
  12. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I've been pretty busy with work lately so progress is a little slow. I spent the past couple of days looking at taillight placement on '32s before I laid mine out.

    [​IMG]

    Here they are with the license plate stuck in place with a tape ball - that's next on the list.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. bonesy
    Joined: Aug 14, 2005
    Posts: 2,999

    bonesy
    Member

    What a stance!
     
  14. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I finally got underway on the floor this week. I wanted to seam the floor to firewall where the toeboards meet the floor. So, I extended the toeboards down and put a stepped flange where they'll meet the floors.

    [​IMG]

    I made up some quick patterns and rough cut some panels for the front pans. I'm making the floor even with the bottom of the subrails like the rear panel is. I have some 1/2" but 1 1/2" tubing that I'll be using for additional subrails over these pans to keep the same style and provide some extra support. I'm planning on filling the voids to build up the height, with plywood or something similar, so the floor on the top is flat as well.

    [​IMG]

    Here, I got the left panel trimmed some more, and drilled so I can plug weld it to the subrails. I'm not having an access panel for the master cylinders, so I raised a section to provide some more hand room underneath. The top of that section will be flush with the finished floor.

    [​IMG]

    And a couple pics from before - I set up the shifter. I had used a hurst tower in a previous project, and was never really happy with the amount of throw for being a "short throw" shifter. I picked up this tower from Pro5.0 (some guys who originally started making stuff for Mustangs), and am pleased by the shorter throw. That, combined with this early '40s truck shift stick made the throw decent for a long stick. I may shorten it some more once the seat is finalized.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. flamed32
    Joined: May 8, 2011
    Posts: 14

    flamed32
    Member

    great display of talent, I too look forward to this thread.
     
  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,402

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No access through the floor for the master cylinder? What a pain in the ass. I predict you will be sorry.

    Why not use some of your obvious fabrication skills and make a neat cover. Even if you have a bare floor when finished, it won't detract from anything. It's supposed to be there.

    And one more thing I'd watch out for: A little more swinging room around the trans might be helpful if it ever needs to come out.
     
  17. great build and keep the updates coming.
     
  18. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,733

    Pewsplace
    Member

    Very nice roadster with some neat ideas thrown in for the folks viewing this thread.
     
  19. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,885

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    This is textbook cool..... Nice details and overall look are spot on!
     
  20. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    Alchemy - the pans are just rough cut around the trans right now. I'll be opening it up once I build the tunnel. As for the master cylinders, I've usually gone this route in the past. I do agree - it's a bit of a pain when needing to fill/service it involving mirrors and flashlights, but that's a tradeoff I don't mind rather than another hole and panel in the floor.
     
  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,402

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    OK. I really do like the car. Has a great stance and overall look. And plenty of individualism, without being over the top.
     
  22. reefer
    Joined: Oct 17, 2001
    Posts: 730

    reefer
    Member

    Great car Cory...I think the rear wheels tucked in close looks real nice...I would`nt change it.The car has a real nice tight look about it....what colour are you thinking of ??
     
  23. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    reefer - the car is going to be all black, black wheels, black motor, etc. As for interior, I'm thinking about a dark saddle brown or oxblood red/brown. The only thing I'm undecided is the top color.....

    Here's a shot from tonight. I final trimmed the pans, and tacked them together with a joining piece behind the trans. I started the subrails at the forward edge. After this shot, I pulled the floor panel out in one piece so I can final weld it in the middle and work more on the subrails. I'm continuing that tubing around the trans opening, and that's what the tunnel will bolt to.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. reefer
    Joined: Oct 17, 2001
    Posts: 730

    reefer
    Member

  25. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    CTaulbert
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    I pretty much got the front floor finished up, and am pleased with how it turned out. I still have to make the transmission tunnel, which I hope to do this week. I pulled the body off today, and worked on the rear suspension. I got a panhard bar setup to keep down the shackle sway. After that, I fabbed up some upper shock mounts, and welded the brackets for the lower mounts I got from So-Cal Sacramento. Those are their forged mounts that look like the early '40s Ford pieces.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  26. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,097

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    I never get sick of looking at a 32 Chassis. Great work.
     
  27. basicbob
    Joined: Nov 2, 2003
    Posts: 670

    basicbob
    Member

    Great work, super smooth parts! This is more like art work than car parts, every piece looks sculptured!

    My vote for (what it's worth) would be Oxblood or deep Green interior.

    You should be very proud of your work & talant.

    Bob
     
  28. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,021

    brady1929
    Member
    from Mesa, Az

    Beautiful roadster
     
  29. Deuce_Eddie
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 153

    Deuce_Eddie
    Member
    from Portugal

    Agree... a very cool build project. Definitely one to follow for inspiration when I get to start mine.

    I agree with the oxblood or dark green interior, dark green looks awesome, just look at Lowsquire's gorgeous roadster. Understated and elegant.

    Cheers, Eddie
     

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