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Technical 1932 rear axle and trans

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by jdpaxton, May 7, 2018.

  1. jdpaxton
    Joined: Nov 14, 2014
    Posts: 109

    jdpaxton

    I know this has been visited here prior but a search only tells me about the curved rear spring(32-34) and not the way to ID a genny 32 rear axle. Also the trans has a serial number beginning with 18-____ and of course 32 was a model 18 but I believe this 18 was also used in 33-34 on the tranny? I have seen one in a 33 but very well could have been replaced. Thanks
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    Here is where you can look up the year of your transmission: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_serialnumbers.htm

    The early 32 rear (commonly known as the B rearend) will have spring hangers off the backside, but the snout of the centersection and the rear torquetube flange will be round. The mounting brackets of the wishbones to the housings have a kink so they are perpendicular to the axle.

    The later 32 rear, through the 34, will have the rear spring hangers off the backside, but you can see they are not perpendicular to the axle. They will be slightly bowed out to fit the curved spring. And, the flange on the front of the centersection and back of the torquetube is scalloped. The mounting brackets of the wishbones to housings are at a slight angle, making the wishbone straight with no kink. The torquetube on a 32 is one length, a 33-4 four cylinder in another length, and the 33-4 V8 is even another length. Sorry I don't know those lengths.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2018
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  3. modelAsteve
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    modelAsteve
    Member

    The internal parts on the two '32 rearends do not interchange- different animals!
     
  4. The early '32 (actually most of the year) will have the spring hangers off of the back and a round (not scalloped) housing where the torque tube attaches (see photo). The internal parts on the early rear interchange with the Model A. The "18" prefix was used for many years.

    Charlie Stephens


    IMG_E8088.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2018
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  5. jdpaxton
    Joined: Nov 14, 2014
    Posts: 109

    jdpaxton

    Thanks for the help. Appreciate all the comments.
     
  6. Can you use a '33-'34 rear end in a '32?
     
  7. Yes, a -33-34 rear can be used in a '32, but the drive shaft and torque tube must be shortened. Every thing else is the same
     
  8. That's what I was thinking. Thank you!
     
  9. jdpaxton
    Joined: Nov 14, 2014
    Posts: 109

    jdpaxton

    With that said above, what is the length of the 32 torque tube, end of ball to axle flange?
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    Which one, early or late?
     
  11. Yes, but it would be cheaper and easier to use the correct rear end.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  12. porkshop
    Joined: Jan 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,710

    porkshop
    Member
    from Clovis Ca

    I Have a early 32 rear end complete. I should be posting it for sale in classifieds soon...
     
  13. Wheeliedave
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 177

    Wheeliedave

    Early production 1932 Ford 4 cylinder Model B Fords had a serial number that started with a star, followed by the capital letters A B, followed by a series of numbers like this: 5,---,---. The dashes represent the actual numbers that would be in your serial number.
    If your serial number starts with a star and is followed by
    18- --- ---- ---, you then have an original frame from 1932 that was originally powered by a V - 8

    Both numbers would also end with a stamped star.
    I hope this helps you out.

    This and more information is available in " The Early Ford V-8 as Henry Built It" written by Edward P. Francis and George De Angelis".


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2018
  14. jdpaxton
    Joined: Nov 14, 2014
    Posts: 109

    jdpaxton

    Well, how about both. I would think either early or late 1932 torque tubes would be shorter than a 33-34 and therefore help id a genny 32 rear axle. Thats what the thread is all about alchemy.
     
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    I just measured an early rear, and the torquetube is just under 53.5".
     
  16. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,682

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Just for what it's worth...the 3 basic ford centers, the actual banjos, are all slightly different in length from center line to the torque tube flange. This means that the 53.5 will be slightly but significantly off if applied to a late '32-4 banjo and off slightly differently for a '35-48.
     
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  17. gearheadbill
    Joined: Oct 11, 2002
    Posts: 1,305

    gearheadbill
    Member

    I just gave one away. Early round flange rears are pretty useless for resale.
     
  18. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,422

    Fortunateson
    Member

    So a early drive shaft won't work with a later rearend and vice versa, correct? Will an early drive shaft work with a '40 rearend?
     
  19. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    No, they are different.
     
  20. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,422

    Fortunateson
    Member

    How difficult is it to shorten a '40 torque tube to work with a '40 rear end and a 8BA in a '32 frame?
     
  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    Do you have a hacksaw and some sheetmetal screws? ;)

    Actually it's not hard for an experienced machinist with a lathe large enough to fit the parts into. If you are going to try it without a lathe you need way more luck.
     
  22. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,422

    Fortunateson
    Member

    So if it will bolt up it's just a matter of shortening it? If that is so I guess a trip to a drive line shop will be in order.
     
  23. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    Shortening a 40 torquetube is just cutting it straightly, and welding it straightly. Cutting the (solid) driveshaft on a 40 is usually best done by shortening the back splined end, boring out the coupler so the shaft fits in, and welding and pinning the shaft and coupler together. Most guys remove the center carrier bearing when shortening down a 40 torquetube.

    To fit the 40 rear into a 32 frame you will need to shorten the wishbones a bit too. And also modify the spring or crossmember depending on which years you want to use. The 40 spring doesn't just fall into the 32 crossmember.
     
  24. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,422

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Yes, I understand about the lateral curve on the original spring. As far as wishbones go would the original '32 wishbones be able to be switched to the '40 rearend?
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018
  25. You would need to make some brackets to weld to the 40 rear end for the 32 rear radius rods. There are two types of rods - early and late . . . either would work, with the correctly oriented bracket. The way I'd set it up is to cut the spring hangers off the 40 rear, buy a set of weld-on ones from Pete and Jakes (for the 32 curved spring) and setup your 40 rear to be in the exactly same location (front to back) as the 32.

    Then, you'll still need to make a custom/modified torque tube as well as a drive-shaft (regardless if you start with a 32 or a 40 set of components). The original 32 drive shaft is for a 10-spline pinion, the 40 rear will have a 6 spline pinion. Also, the banjo carrier fo the 40 is a different length than the 32, so it will require a shortened driveshaft and a torque tube to match (as compared to a stock 32 rear - early or late).

    Lots of ways to skin the driveshaft/torque-tube problem . . . just need to know the dimensions you need to match and have the correct set of components, machinery and fabrication skills.
     
  26. If you are running fenders the '40 rear end may be too wide.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  27. The 1940 rear is about 1" wider than a 32-34. This is only 1/2" per side . . . so my guess is that it will cause you no issues with tires and fenders.
     
  28. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,868

    alchemy
    Member

    I actually think stock Ford wheels of any early year (wires, steelies) could use an extra half inch per side to the outside. There will be no problem with hitting fenders.
     
  29. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,422

    Fortunateson
    Member

    Thank you all for the helpful tips. I REALLY appreciate it.
     

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