Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Motor looks great

 

Looks great Dennis.

 

Very nice. I'm putting a 283 in my A (if I ever get around to starting that project) and I'd be delighted if it even looks 1/2 as nice.

 

UPDATE

I finished designing and building the pieces for the generator rear support. Very pleased with the results. Just needs finish welding.

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I made a sleeve to go on the adjuster arm bolt and take up the slack in the adjuster slot. The sleeve is just a touch thinner than the arm so it doesn't interfere with tightening the bolt.

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At the other end of the adjuster arm where it attaches to one of the water pump bolts I had to do something about the size of the hole because it was 3/8"+ and the bolt is 5/16". The arm also has to be spaced 3/16" to properly align with the generator. I drilled the hole in the arm out to 1/2" then made a 3/8" long 1/2" sleeve with a 5/16" hole in the middle that fits into the adjuster arm and sticks out the back to space the arm out appropriately. It just needs to be welded in now.

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Here's the finished generator mounting. The adjuster arm is an older GM piece and the edges were really rough so I polished them and rounded both ends to make it look cleaner.

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With the generator mounting all figured out I pulled everything apart and put the water pump riser through the bandsaw a couple of times to remove the unneeded A/C compressor mounting ears.

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After modifying the water pump riser I cleaned it, masked it and painted it and the water pump Ford engine green. More to come...

 

Don't mean to derail the thread here, but can that positive stop bolt trick work on the single detent model shift towers as well? I really like that idea, and mine is currently apart....

 

I don't see why not? The bolt won't care what year tower it's screwed into.

 

moter looks great. Good tech on building the trans, Keep the updates coming.

 

Awesome. This whole thread has been such a huge help. You have an amazing ability to communicate these things in terms that a dummy like me can understand.

 

Wow, great work on the genny/alternator mount! Very tidy!

 

UPDATE

Today I worked on tuning up my original '32 V8 front engine brackets. They had angled fan belt reliefs carved into them at some point in the past which is necessary when using them with a '38-'48 24-stud flathead. Since it's not required for the Chevy and the notches do weaken the brackets I carved the area into an easier shape to work with, made some 3/8" x 3/8" x 1" filler pieces with deep fillets and my Dad welded them in for me while he was doing other welding last Friday. Today I ground, filed and sanded them smooth to try and make it look like the reliefs never happened. Tomorrow morning I'll be dropping them and some other small parts off at our powder coater.

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I think you did a good job on this too. No surprises about that, though!

 

Very nice job there Dennis, not that the welding on your mounts need it, but I've seen where guys will blend in repaired spots on castings and forgings with what's called a needle scaler. For those unfamiliar with them; they have been used for years by weldors, primarily when stick welding, to remove slag.
There are a few different size needles available, but the finer ones help match most automotive part surface textures. Also good for removing paint and crud.
HF has some inexpensive models.

 

UPDATE

Just a short list of a few bolts needed to hang everything on the engine...

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Nothing like a big bag full of brand new matching hardware! I love flange bolts and nuts on engines. They lend a clean, factory appearance. They also eliminate the need for washers which simplifies assembly or disassembly. It's a huge pet peeve of mine to see an engine (or any other assembly) with miss matching hardware all over it. It's the little details that make the biggest differences and show ones pride in their work.

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I installed the Zipps water pump riser and water pump which blend in nicely now that they're painted in matching Ford engine green. Don't mind the stack of washers under the upper-most water pump bolt. They're to compensate until the generator adjuster arm is installed.

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I found a perfect sized core plug to fit into the road draft hole in the back of the block. I'm gonna go back and paint this area green, an over sight in my haste to get the engine masked and painted .

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Still working on lots of piddly little things that need to be in place for engine installation which is scheduled for the 14th. I truly can't wait to see it in the truck and detailed out. More to come...

 

^^^BEAUTIFUL

 

Great attention to detail as always

 

UPDATE



Before getting the engine installed permanently I had to tie up some loose ends. One of which was to finish my modified original 4-banger throttle assembly. After disassembling it I made a new shaft out of 5/16” rod to replace the original. The new shaft has a hook on the far end to retain the original return spring and is longer on the pedal end for an add-on lever to work with the 4 barrel carburetor. Shown below is the original 4-banger rod on top and the new rod below.



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Here is the completed assembly. The add-on lever was made from 1/8” and has a 1/2” sleeve welded into it which is drilled 5/16” to fit over the rod. The sleeve and rod were then match-drilled with a 1/8” bit and are pinned together with a cotter pin should they need to come apart for any reason. I also had to drill the mounting cap so that the shaft can extend out of the side of it.



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I wanted to get this installed before the engine because it has to be wound one revolution to tension the return spring. It's a whole bunch easier when you can stand at the firewall and muscle it.



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I also needed to permanently attach the radiator cap to the shell since the Walker radiator doesn't have a faux filler neck. I first removed all of the guts from the under side of the cap. I then made an 1/8” thick steel disc to fit inside the cap and another disc to fit the flange on the under side of the shell. I reused the sealing gasket and spring disc so that as the mounting bolt was tightened they would take of the slack in the shells hole.



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I bolted a few more things onto the engine like the pulleys, generator, fan, front mounts, new plugs, plug shields and wire holders and thermostat/housing.



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Very pleased with how the generator mount and adjuster turned out!



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UPDATE



This past Saturday my cousin, John, came over for a few hours to lend a hand installing the engine. The extra person really came in handy and resulted in nothing getting banged or scratched. I didn't stop to take a lot of pictures but did manage to get a couple.



Started out by installing the flywheel, clutch and bell housing. Before this I had Blair's Speed Shop in Pasadena, CA balance the pressure plate and flywheel together to ensure I would have a smooth drive line. I always have new pressure plates balanced.



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Then the transmission was mounted.



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The engine permanently in place and most of the accessories installed. I still need to detail the distributor and do the brush-on heat coating on the exhaust manifolds. Also need to make the fuel lines and take a pattern of the upper radiator hose shape to the local parts store and rummage through their hose department.



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Lower hose and heater hose cap are installed using 50's style Corbin clamps.



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New plugs (with green writing!), plug shields and Raja clips.



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Plenty of clearance everywhere up front.



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Front upper shocks mounts powder coated and final installed.



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Got the frame spreader bar reinstalled. Since the mounting bolts went away with the fenders and bumper I needed new bolts. One day a couple of weeks ago I was cleaning up a set of backing plate bolts & nuts for a customer and it occurred to me that the small profile of the bolt heads would look nice on the frame horns. As it turns out '37-'48 front backing plate bolts are exactly the right length to work here so I cleaned up some more for me.



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Lastly, a few parting shots of how the truck sits now. The other thing I did on Saturday (before installing the engine) was to change the front spring main leaf to a stock one without reversed eyes. This pushed the axle assembly further away from the frame and gained me an inch of clearance between the tie rod and crank pulley, which is now at an acceptable amount. I still like the stance and I didn't want the truck super low in the first place. I want it to be a truck! And, YES, it will have a full hood!!!



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Man, that's looking so nice!

 

What Flow said is correct.

 

It's all looking great buddy!

 

Thanks a bunch, guys!

UPDATE

Not a ton happened this week. I'm now at that part of the engine build where every time I try and do something I have to stop and go to the store for some chicken shit part. I finally got frustrated enough that I sat down, made a thorough list, called our neighborhood parts store and ordered everything I could think of. I should be able to pick all of that up on Monday.

I did manage to make and install the 3/8" fuel line from the pump to the glass filter and hang the filter from the inlet of the carburetor.

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I made an adjustable rod to connect the throttle assembly to the carburetor.

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I installed the low oil pressure switch for the warning light on the dash. I decided to use a tee fitting with a plug in the top so that I could hook up a gauge to read the oil pressure when I initially get the engine running and for any future inspection.

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Lastly, I washed and installed the clutch linkage rod and pedal return springs.

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Hoping next week will be very productive and that all of the engine details are squared away.

 

noticed the brass plug where the pcv should go...hint, hint

 

UPDATE

Today I built the fuel line from the pump to the tank. Used 3/8" on this end too. Worked out good because the shut off valve at the tank is the correct configuration for a 3/8" tube nut and 45 degree flare.

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Bought and mounted an ignition coil with internal resistor.

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Also found an molded radiator hose that fit the upper position perfectly. Installed the fan belt which turned out to be a 3/8" x 53". Installed the remaining pipe plugs in the front of the intake and got a radiator cap.

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Getting really close to having all the engine details finished. Things left to do are:
- Restore outside of distributor and install.
- Reinstall spark plug wires.
- Make vacuum advance vacuum line.
- Install exhaust manifolds.
- Fill with oil and prime.
- Fill cooling system.
- Battery, cable and solenoid.
- Reinstall original wire harness and modify as necessary.

If I get those items taken care of I think it will be ready to fire!

 

nice work, but I don't get all the contemporary stuff mixed with the 18" wires
mabee its way over my head
all that speedway edelbrock stuff looks cheap to me
sorry
B

 

It's always good when the list gets short!

 

Really, the Chevy engine in any dress doesn't go with the wire wheels. Traditionally speaking, they're two styling components separated by 20 years and I'll be the first to admit it. To be even more frank, there's really nothing technically traditional at all about a fenderless '32 pickup with 18" wires (regardless of engine) because nobody would have done such a thing back in the good old days. Like I said a few pages back, I'm not building the truck to suit a particular era. I'm building it the way I want it to be. I'm very happy with the appearance of the engine and in the end it will have the full hood so the engine won't clash with the "old timey" exterior. I also don't expect everyone to like my truck. No matter how I built it there would be those who felt negatively about it. That's just life. More so than promoting my truck, I'm doing this thread to promote the quality work my Dad and I produce at our little shop.

I do find it a bit humorous that a few guys have expressed negative opinions about the brand new finned aluminum Edelbrock Chevy parts (yeah, obviously the K&N filter element is modern) but if they were brand new finned aluminum Edelbrock flathead parts that would be okay. New is new.

And, I bought it all from Summit Racing, not Speedway.

 

to me this is the text book mexample of Traditional vs Era perfect. And i like it!
And with the Hood closed it lookes, feels and does the part.
And most of all its Bolt-in/Bolt on, and close to no damage to any original 32 parts!

But everybody has an opinion, and thats mine! and you have the rigth to yours!!

EDIT i type to slow ;-)

 

Very cool, love the engine color.
I have a GM six in my avatar Ford Green.

 

I don't get all this period perfect stuff. I always thought a hotrod was a personal statement about the own/builder and to me Dennis you have nailed there is probably not another build on the hamb with quality of yours, so I for one hope you don't stop with the build thread, because a lot of great information here Tom

 

"Haters gonna hate!"

I know I'm going in the right direction on my projects when people say stupid things about it.