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Technical 1932 Pickup Rebuild Thread UPDATED 1/11/16

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Dennis Lacy, Apr 5, 2015.

  1. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    YES, YES, YES!

    Killer, Danny. I can't wait to see those dished 18's out back.
     
    hot rod pro likes this.
  2. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    UPDATE

    Speaking of wheels and tires...

    This morning I got up a little early and whipped into our favorite local tire shop on the way to work and had the front tires installed. Then, shortly after opening up the shop the FedEx truck showed up with a box for me. Inside it were a set of new '33 V8 hubcaps with pre painted backgrounds.

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    Our customers wheel and tire are still sitting around our place so I stuck it on the back so I could see how the truck will look with the big rear wheels and tires. Sorry for the crummy photo quality. I tried taking pics with the lights off and just using the camera flash hoping to drown out all of the back ground distraction. It kind of worked except the pics are a little fuzzy.

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  3. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,893

    Mart
    Member

    Cool, my man, cool.
     
  4. What is the torque value on the castellated "do-nut" mount nut?
     
  5. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,709

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    That's good Dennis. Now we can tell our trucks apart.
     
    Dennis Lacy likes this.
  6. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Especially since I was gonna put the Bruces Rod Shop logo on the door...
     
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  7. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,709

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    I'm going to have some door magnets made with "BRUCE'S ROD SHOP, WEST COAST DIVISION" for you.
     
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  8. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,396

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Really enjoying this build. I had originally planned a chopped top, shortened bed, FF truck, even built a chassis. After studying this build and Hot Rod Pros, the chassis is now under a 5 window body. I already had all the stuff to build an early style chassis with QC. I think I'll save thousands and just build my truck with a stock cab and box, highboy style with black suede paint like my last 2 deuce pickups. Monkey see/Monkey do
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2015
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  9. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Cool! Until I saw Danny's truck 5/6 years ago I never would have considered pulling my fenders off because I never liked the look of a stock top/bed fender less '32 Pickup. As far as I'm concerned the only reason it works is the use of the big 18" wheels and tires to go with the tall cab and long bed. It levels out all of the proportions. I would never do it with 15's or 16's.

    Are you going to run 18's too? If you do, definitely send a pair to Danny to widen. The huge tires just don't look right squeezed onto the narrow stock wheels. I wasn't going to do it at first because of budget constraints and it was killing me. Thankfully, I was able to work a great deal with Danny and his dad, Bruce, to get a pair made as part of the payment for the fenders they bought from me. Maybe 20 years from now I'll regret letting go of them but the more I see this project come together the more I doubt it.
     
  10. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,396

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Actually I have a set of 5.00/16 and 7.50/16 Excelsior/Stahl radials mounted on 4.5 & 6 inch steelies that I am committed to using. Maybe not quite as big as yours but the fronts are a little over 25 inches and the rears almost 32 inches tall. The wheels and tires came off my 32 roadster and the rears filled the wheel wells. I'll have to make do.
     
  11. Based on the info on the Coker website the Excelsior 7.50/16 and the 7.00/18 both have a diameter of 31.6". So I wouldn't be rushing out to get some 18" rears, when your steelies will do the same job.
     
  12. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Coker's diameter figures should be taken with a grain of salt. One of our customers has the Excelsior Stahl Radials in 700-18 on his '32 Sedan and they are definitely 33" fully inflated on a 5" wide wheel. I know this because I measured them.

    I am using STA Transport 700-18 truck tires from Coker and they also measure 33".
     
  13. It did seem a little odd, seems pretty stupid they put incorrect info on their website. Damn you Coker....
     
  14. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,709

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    It all really comes down to if you want cookie cutter steelies, or widened 18" wires like all the cool kids have!
     
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  15. Is your Dad Coming around with this yet?
     
  16. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,396

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    After 70 years I will just have to settle for not being cool!
     
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  17. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,419

    A Boner
    Member

    I would have to see them in person, side by side to be able to say for sure, but the difference between 31.6" and 33" doesn't sem like much. Besides with the 16" wheel, the tire probably looks like it has a little more meat....which would be good for the rear tires IMHO. Probably both look cool!
     
  18. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I think your cool if you have wheels that roll straight and true, or Dilvco's but then your probably rich and not cool at all.
     
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  19. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    UPDATE

    Not a whole lot to report on this week. The weather is T.F.H. to be super productive. I can barely get up for doing necessary shop work, let alone my own. Despite the heat I did get started modifying an original pair of '48-'52 F1 truck shock mounts. The new configuration will allow the existing original front lever shock mount holes to be used and only one additional mounting hole drilled per side. After cutting off the upright and rotating it I also had to shorten it so that the distance from the center of the mounting hole to the center of the upper stud is 4.5". It's hard to see in this picture but the end of the upright has been chamfered for a healthy filet. I am also going to fit gussets in the triangle shaped gap to further support the upright. They will be plenty strong.

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  20. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,709

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    Dennis' wheels update. Both wheels are widened, welded, and ground on the spoke side. The welds on the tire sides will be done in Monday. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1440897170.805816.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  21. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Those look wicked!
     
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  22. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Thanks for the update, Danny. I'm super happy with how they look widened on the outside.

    Is it necessary to balance them afterwards?
     
  23. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,564

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your call on balancing , we had a set of steel rims cut and the centre shifted out and the rim narrowed outer and the same 1" replaced on the inner ,basically to bring the offset in , in all 3 full welds.
    Anyway in the hands of a skilled machinist we fitted the tyres and found the most we were out was 1oz. Pretty amazing really. But we did it for peace of mind as ours were fronts?
     
  24. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,709

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    The guy that tweaked on this wheel before I cut it will check them after I'm done.
     
  25. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    UPDATE

    Worked some more on the modified F1 upper shock mounts today. After getting them tacked together and being able to offer them up to the truck I found that they were actually about an inch too tall so I cut the tacks and took out another inch from the uprights. Satisfied with the new dimensions I made some gussets to fill the triangle shaped void and support the uprights. This way they won't be relying only on the welds at the bases.

    [​IMG]Hosted on Fotki
     
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  26. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,709

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441420516.825678.jpg both wheels done. Ready to ship. Can't wait to see them in black.
     
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  27. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    Man-o-man, those look soooo bitchin', Danny! I can't wait to see them in black, with tires and on the back of my truck. I was going to pull the motor back out next week to get going on making it pretty and building the trans but I might just leave it until I get these so I can set the truck down and push it outside of a look.
     
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  28. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,172

    waxhead
    Member
    from West Oz

    Love the widened wires, look good.
     
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  29. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,393

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    UPDATE

    Yesterday I test fit the upper shock mounts. The rearward bolts are in the original lever shock mounting holes so I only had to drill one new hole per side. I had to heat and tweak the shape of the upright above the gussets which basically involved making the radius longer so that the mounts would reach 1/2" farther forward. I also drilled the threaded portion so that they could use castle nuts and cotter pins. To get the shocks to clear the shackles I ground the bell shaped covers flat on the back side. Clearance is tight but it will work. Now that I know everything is going to fit the mounts can get finish welded and powder coated.

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    I decided that I am going to install turn signals. I figured it's a good idea considering I plan to use this truck as a daily driver and most people out here in SoCal probably don't have a clue what it means when I stick my arm out the window. Rooting through our shelves I found some old 2" Yankee motorcycle taillights. They have 3/8" mounting studs which fit the now vacant front fender brace holes. I think they look tasteful so I got on Ebay to try and find some with amber lenses. I found a place selling reproductions both in chrome like these and all black. Wanting them to be as discrete as possible I ordered the all black versions and they should be here any day.

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    The hard part was finding a turn signal control that I liked. I've installed quite a few HotTronics self canceling control kits on customer cars. Those use toggle switches that are typically mounted along the bottom of the dash rail. Personally, I don't like that because my natural instinct is to reach for an arm on the column and push up for left and down for right. The self cancel feature is also on an adjustable timer but I find that even on their longest setting of a couple minutes they won't last through a whole red light and waiting for cross traffic after on intersections without turn arrows so you have to reapply the signals a time or two.

    I looked all over for a column mounted switch but most of them are chrome and that would stick out like a sore thumb on my plain truck. I finally found the switch below on Ebay. It is a good quality reproduction of a 50's style switch (the housing is actually diecast metal, not plastic!) and it comes in chrome or black. Obviously, I chose black. I held it up to the column and I think it's going to look just fine. I will definitely be changing the red hazard knob to something smaller and darker. I'll root through our old dash knobs and see if there's something I can fit on there. I'll also replace the modern vinyl wire loom with 30's style cloth loom.

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    Continuing to gather parts, I grabbed a correct 283 / 4 barrel fuel pump...

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    A Power Master gear reduction mini starter...

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    A new AC glass bowl fuel filter...

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    Fuel pump push rod and fuel pump backing plate...

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    50's style corbin-clamp kit for the radiator hoses...

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    And the correct shorty AC Delco oil filter for '66/'67 Chevy II.

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