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1932 Pickup Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, Mar 27, 2008.

  1. send_it_all
    Joined: Nov 28, 2006
    Posts: 137

    send_it_all
    Member

  2. 29 rattrap
    Joined: Apr 28, 2009
    Posts: 166

    29 rattrap
    Member
    from New York

    Where did you get those tires on the front?
    what size are they?
     
  3. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    The rims and tires on the front are from coker tire. They are the firestone dirt track 15" fronts. Just make sure that you get the ones that don't have the "display only" on the tires. Ive heard horror stories about those being out of round.

    The rims are just chrome steelies.
     
  4. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,922

    kisam
    Member

    I'd say the chop looks perfect. Wish the one I am working on looked that good. Also I wished they had taken the chop out of the top of the windshield post instead on the middle (now the post will have to be pie cut to make it right). Anyway I am loving this build!
     
  5. SchlottyD
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 740

    SchlottyD
    Member

    Excellent craftsmanship going into this little hotrod, absolutely love the front crossmember and spring mount.
     
  6. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,485

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    First off, that truck looks pretty sharp and you've definitely got some skills. If you're still open to suggestions as far as how to beef up the chassis, I studied it and and drew up one option. The rear is simple enough, although you may see fit to adjust it some to suit your situation. The front along with the rear could be done with 1 5/8" ? tubing attached to the frame with large weld in clevises (basically rollcage swing out door bar ends) and tabs, allowing easy removal. The only difference being a shear panel between the frame and the dropped bar running across the door opening. It could be flanged on the bottom to bolt to the frame rail. It looks like your narrow seats and width of your rails would allow for it, but I could be wrong. If the tubing is heavy enough, you may be able to flare it slightly without weakening it too much. Done this way, it should be plenty strong, although a cowl and/or main hoop could be incorporated. Just an idea.
    aprilmayjune2008.jpg
     
  7. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,485

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    Yaay! my first picture. Much success.
     
  8. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah



    Thanks for the input! I think that would work perfectly.

    I made a drawing in illustrator that I think is the way I want to go. I want this to be removable for ease of painting. I should be able to have the front hoop, that my steering and brakes hang off of, welded on to it. Then the rear hoop, that my seat belts attach to can be bolted on top as well as to the rear posts of the cab.

    Ill be changing the way the rear part of the frame connects to the section under the cab. I just want to keep as much of the rear floor as possible. I also will still put a bolt in brace across the arc but to make it not stick below the bottom of the bed it will just go straight across.

    Thanks again for the great idea!



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  9. Deu55
    Joined: May 31, 2009
    Posts: 758

    Deu55
    Member

    That is one cool shop truck..Rod..
     
  10. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,485

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    Well look at you and your fancy computer magic. Glad if I was any help at all. If anything it was a good reason for me to finally figure out how to post pictures. Now I just need to get a digital camera so everyone can see my piss poor excuse for a project.:)
     
  11. Flathead26T
    Joined: Dec 4, 2008
    Posts: 317

    Flathead26T
    Member

    Awsome shop truck. Cant wait to see more updates!
     
  12. willysguy
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 1,224

    willysguy
    Member
    from Canada

    Now that made me chuckle! You da man Chris! Looks right on!;)
     
  13. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I started on the chop the other day. With it all cut apart I will go over the separate panels and fix all the dents and rust issues. Then I will start putting the chop back together.



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  14. tboats52
    Joined: Sep 7, 2009
    Posts: 4

    tboats52
    Member
    from SE WI

    Outstanding!!!!!!!!
     
  15. smith32
    Joined: Mar 1, 2007
    Posts: 190

    smith32
    BANNED

    Wow, awesome work here....... i been following along on an A Coupe build you have been doing but dammm this one just blows my mind
     
  16. Go for a 6" chop, man.....I cut mine 5.5" and thought it was tits until 2 days later I saw one cut 6 inches...that extra 1/2 inch looked great! Mine was channelled the width of the frame too and at 5'9" I still had an inch and a half head-clearance with the mini-van seat on the floor.....was easy to see out of in all directions because your face is always close to any window in the cab...
    BTW, taking a slice out of a 49-50 ford dash makes it fit a 32-34 ford pickup and the stock 49-50 gauges work great..
    Here's mine with a 26 T bed and 5.5" chop.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. PonchoJohn
    Joined: May 1, 2009
    Posts: 238

    PonchoJohn
    Member
    from Fresno, Ca

    Any updates on this build?
     
  18. justnicholas
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 137

    justnicholas
    Member

    I just read this entire thread and was in awe. Hope theres some more posts.
     
  19. hemifarris
    Joined: Sep 30, 2005
    Posts: 2,321

    hemifarris
    Member

    Nice build......great chassis!
     
  20. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    Unfortunately I sold this pickup to my dad last year to help fund my 32' Tudor sedan. I was sad to sell it, but its nice to know its still in the family.
     
  21. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    aarrgh...was hoping to steal ideas...now what am I gonna do? :D
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  22. blackmopar
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 481

    blackmopar
    Member
    from fallbrook

    thing looks great! im trying to fenagle one of these cabs from my neighbor - old man knows what he has though! aargh
     
  23. 10secondA
    Joined: Apr 8, 2009
    Posts: 104

    10secondA
    Member

    that frame is amazing i like it
     
  24. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,471

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Larry: You don't need no dam blueprints, just follow the picture you had in your original thread, it don't get no better than that.
     
  25. CWTC10
    Joined: Jul 8, 2009
    Posts: 239

    CWTC10
    Member
    from Arab Al

    Any updates on this one?
     
  26. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I sold the cab, bed, and some of the frame to my dad cause he really wanted a shop truck. That's when I bought my 32' sedan, and that's now my personal project.
     
  27. orangepeel
    Joined: Feb 8, 2010
    Posts: 22

    orangepeel
    Member
    from arvada, co

    More amazing work Chris. Cant wait to comeback for your open house next year during speedweek. Did you ever get any shop logo decals done up????
     

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