The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by AULIZ, Nov 21, 2020.
Before you weld in nut you do screw in sacrificial bolt to protect threads? Right?
sometimes I do, sometimes not. Anyway, need to open all threads after paintjob with UNC 3/8 tap.
There is so many way to do all jobs. I do my way and Im just learning welding jobs.
What about You?
This day with rear springs was like "military drill" -day. Turned end spring which was bolted on car -> too soft and too straight.
I tested with another springs. One lift frame too high, another spring was 1" too long. 5th mixed version was good and I accept that combination. Mixed spring. I opened spring which was bolted on before support modification (see yesterday last pic. Nice turned ends spring but too soft. I increased some original curved leafs which make spring harder and make spring littleh higher. while i tested with 11 leaf, 8leaf, 9leaf.... 9leaf is best. Need to test that combination first when body, fuel tank etc are installed.
Also machined places for new SS spring clamps.
Saturday is kicked.
First I removed engine mountings. Nice weldings. 3kg hammer + little cutting from upside -> all removed. Mig is good welder, but need to know what to do with it...
This is very good frame. Nice boxings and very good quality Industrial Chassic inc. 1934 style rear k-members.
Only place what need to weld found from under LH original engine mounting pad.
This frame has been used in country where they had RH steering. First I need to remove rivets under LH pedal box.
After that made original 1932 style clutch arm using one late 30´s arm and fourty arm.
also made adjustable rod between pedal and arm.
Yes, too many pics, but that´s the way.
80´s - 90´s I had also camera (now only cellphone) all the time in garage. Then need to think twice when shot, it was rather expensive to make those paperphotos....
You can see those 80´s pics in my website, or Hot Rod projects before this 32.
Plan is this:
1) this roadster is ready 6/2021.
2) August-October I built my customers 1935 Ford pick up ready.
3) November 2021 -> 6/2022 I built ready my 5w coupe.
Very nice, as usual! Thanks for sharing, always look forward to it.
Thank You Sirs.
I try and enjoy very much with those old jalopy´s.
I like how you reuse old parts in your builds. I always look for your postings. The HAMB is really great allowing all of us to hang out in each others garages. Please keep posting, I really enjoy following along.
Monday - Tuesday. I have finished firewall and small parts. Next I need to paint those.
P-51 magnesium seats are sodablasted. Soda makes magnesium colour darker than those were earlier.
Nice grey colour. I leave seats like they are now.
Today also changed new spindle bushings and made those ready with old adjustable reamer. New king pins are too long for 1932 spindle, needed to cut 3/4".
inc dimension needle bearings I have bought from UK. Those bearings which come with king pins are not fit with 1932 ford original spindles.
Rear axle, rear brakes etc are removed. Frame is empty. Tomorrow need to wash frame before I sand and paint epoxy primer.
Same time when take parts off, I made those ready. rear and front brakes are not new stuff, but all are OK. I have one set brand new lincoln brake cylinders on stock.
Today I reweld some front parts, and rear handbrake quide tubes. Also made bronze bushes (front).
I noticed that you used a thin thrust bearing on your 32 spindles.
I did also, but used the 32 kingpin and stock top mounted thrust bearing.
I cut off the mechanical brake cup, filled it with weld and turned it smooth. Found a thin thrust bearing that filled the gap at the bottom with a bit of filing. Gave me two thrust bearings and it steers pretty nice with a 34 box.
Very good advice !
I do not have any old mecanical brake king pins, but good idea to do like You did.
Thursday - Friday I have worked with one customer´s 1941 lincoln rear axle. He has nice project, 1941 3w Lincoln.
I grinded wheel bearing surfaces in tubes and installed new bearing IR -rings. After that grinded surfaces with crankjournal grinder to right inc dimension.
I changed new differential bearings, changed seals inside tubes. Pinion bearings were good condition.
Today shimmed teeth clearance and diff.bearing preload with those Ford shimgaskets.
Now turns smooth, but not too smooth (light preload). Teeth clearance 15/100mm is OK when used R&P.
Have You never seen this kind of small combustion chambers like those Edelbrock heads?
I found those from ebay. I wonder, if compression ratio is too high with those heads.?
Saturday - Sunday. Small parts fixed. glassblasted and painted.
Today fixed frame, sanded it and painted 2kg epoxy primer.
Frame is dry few couple of days and after sanded outer surfaces, I paint it.
Tomorrow Im on the road all day. I leave Lincoln rearaxle to my customers place. Same way drive down to south and pick up 18parcel hot rod stuff arrived from CA.
Bias Ply tires, new fourty wheels, airbags to my pick up, two pieces more those GM 17" Artillery wheels .... nothing special.
Thanks for showing the clutch arm modification. I'll be using that idea some day, hopefully soon.
Those clutch arms are good material. You can hear it. Now I found one extra original 1932 arm from my stock, but I leave homemade arm to this tranny.
Old days they fasten good quality steel pieces so that they warm materials and push together. I do not know right english word, we talk in finnish language "tyssäys". Old blacksmiths were done that nearly same way, they just reheat piece after jointed together and hammered it. When I weld using TIG, I heat material "red" as much as possible and hammer it after welded. Of course need to use filler wire. I have onl 3-4 different welding wire. for steel (2) , stainless steel, FerroNickel-55 (castiron, greycast, ggg).
I have note that many times those Ford, Lincoln rear axle spring mountings are "welded" together like that old style --> very hot red steels push together. That´s rock´n´roll.
I have one old Okie Adams (San Diego) front axle. He made his drop axles using same method. He cut original 1932 HEAVY axle ends and put together with new own steel ends. Heat, cut ends with "machine hatchet", reheat + heat own ends and push ends together with basic axle. No welding, strong.... That would be nice to meet somebody who has those all posibility to work like that. Old factory, equipments... That´s what I like.
Yesterday I drive down to South where they unload seacontainers. Picked up some bias ply tires, hot rod wheels, small stuff from CG Ford parts (Escondido CA) and very nice Mopar 426 magneto (cirello) which I bought from here. Thanks "Mr. Bruces Mopar".
Also two rust Chevy Artillery wheels. Those are rusty, but looks very good projects.
Today finally my friend called me. He own car painting company. This eastern week is ok to paint my roadster body and parts. Now there is 1st set installed in painting room. Tomorrow 2nd set (doors, 4pc hood, grill shell) and later this week rest of parts.
Tomorrow new pics. Colour is RAL 8015 (chestnut brown)
That’s a lot of $$$$ sitting in the floor of your truck
1st set painted.
2nd set waiting for Thursday morning when my friend spay those.
Thursday I leave him "empty" body, we paint it during Eastern.
I really like the color you chosen, looks like Mandarin Maroon. I didn’t know the top of the cowl came off like that. Is it a European thing ? Frank
Body is made by Brookville. Their sheetmetal quality is best. All fits 100%.
I have removed top of cowl. Also removed that panel between cabin and trunk lid and panel between gas tank and trunk lid. same time when remove those, can make some louvers, taillight mountins..... and You get better corrosion protection when painted all over.
Colour is RAL 8015. Chestnut brown. Strongly brown but also red.
All my colours are from RAL colour sheet. Basic simple colors.
I like louvers also, here are the panels on my 29 roadster
If you turn over your panel and louver it again from the other side on the same cut line you get a deeper louvers and it will let more air out. Frank
Your louvers looks very good !!!
Today picked up home 2nd set bodypanels. Same time I left empty body there. My friend Pasi will spray it during Easter.
I like the white grill insert. We don’t have a RAL 8016 paint supplier we have BASP , Sickens, PPG, DuPont and several others. What vehicular does this cross over to or color code? Thanks Frank
First pictures I wasn't sure about the color. But the more I see the more I like it, good choice. And it is your choice, doesn't have to please anyone else.
Thanks. For myself this colour is more or less "strange" but I still like it. This color is so strong that it needs all cromeparts, alum. parts, interior, steering wheel, gauges,....
Maybe after one week I can start to put those together. Cromeparts are just coming from DalaKrom Ab , Borlänge Sweden. I know Micke has done again great job. Interior is ready after 1-2week. Simplestyle. I have not decided yet if I polish gauge trims (alum.), hood trims (around holes) etc. maybe I leave those like they are "sanded aluminum"... As I write, this color is so strong that it needs those other colors side by side.
RAL colorsheet is universal. It´s shorted colorsheet. Simple colors and all those brands (glasurit, ppg, sikkens, ici, ..... can make those colors to shiny or lowerprice 85% shiny "heavy vehicle" paint like they say here. I have bought earlier 3litre this RAL8015 and one litre RAL1015 (white). Yesterday I bought one litre more 8015. Small car but when You pait all over all parts. 1 x rough spray round + 2 x wet round. 4 litre is rather much, but it is not big cost if think all project. 85euro = litre (quarter) this shiny glasurit -22.
4litre + harder + thinner = 600-700euro all + white stuff + sanding papers, + 10litre industrial epoxy primer (200e)... total little over 1000euro. + He, Pasi, takes few hundred. That is not big money to paint car here. I know prices are higher bigger cities where Your friend do not own painting company. I save money very much, I do all my self except paintjob (body), interior job, crome.
I have used ral color my hot rods many times .
This I like most of all. Not too "sweet", but not too cold too.
Same RAL color, but first year I was inclease 40% matting base in to acryl.
Not easy to keep car clean (then I drive 10 000 - 20 000km / year) so I piece car, repaint it same color shiny.
"Frank" from Tampere city and Wizzzard (pekka mannermaa) made new pin straipings, text...
Friday sanded (500 grind) frame outside and painted it. takes time to spray all small corners....
These samsung phone pics are not so good quality, but not want to take real canon camera to garage, i destroy it there.
When I was Young, I was spray very much cars. Today only frame, wheels, small parts,.. I do not trust that I can "keep color up" if need to paint complete body.
This frame looks ok to me.
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