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Projects 1932 Ford Roadster P-51

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by AULIZ, Nov 21, 2020.

  1. olds vroom
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 978

    olds vroom
    Member

    This is shaping up to look similar to my p-40 build ( The A Bomb ) . Nice work ! Great minds think alike. IMG_0714.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Thamks. Very nice Rod and important thing : You enjoy building and Rod ´n´ Roll on the road.
    Aulis
     
  3. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Monday. I short column and shaft 2 1/2" shorter than original lenght. Steering column which was bolted on this roadster will be used in my 5w coupe project. This car I choosed one rebuilt steering box with very long column shaft (originally 5" longer than normal 1932 shaft).
    Column tube: I weld it using two part, 1932 + 1936. Now steering wheel feel good. Right height, right far from seat. Seats are very low. It´s first time I installed seats so low. I was test sit in car (Im 5' 10") . My shoulders are lower than body line.
    Now I like this outlook !

    What car this steering box is from?
    Long column shaft (5" longer than orig. 1932 pass.car column tube)
    when turn, 3 1/4 round from side to side (normal is +4 round)

    Aulis

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    Last edited: Feb 15, 2021
    brEad, Stogy, Ziggster and 3 others like this.
  4. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Tuesday is ready.
    Drums & Hubs ready.. New 5 x 4.25 bolt circle done. Still need to lathe 5mm shims between hubs and spindles, press new wheel bolts in to holes...
    Two of those 1935 chevy Artillery wheels are straighted.
    I bought two more fom HamBer East Coast US.

    59A cylinder block is ready. 3 holes get sleeve. All cylinders honed 600 stone.
    59A crank is grinded 010 / 010.

    Bezels to hood holes are "under construction".

    Aulis

    stoker-384.jpg stoker-385.jpg stoker-386.jpg stoker-387.jpg stoker-388.jpg stoker-389.jpg stoker-390.jpg stoker-391.jpg stoker-392.jpg stoker-393.jpg stoker-394.jpg stoker-395.jpg stoker-396.jpg
     
    brEad, Stogy, lothiandon1940 and 5 others like this.
  5. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Wednesday I cut pass.side hood hole frame, filed it and drilled both frames.

    We had also "small Christmas" here. Mirka Deros 650 orbital sander + dust extractor arrived. I sell bearings to Mirka factory, so they give me 30-40% discount. Very good, my 16y old aircompressor is not so good anymore. Next winter I invest new screw compressor.

    Aulis

    stoker-397.jpg stoker-398.jpg stoker-399.jpg stoker-400.jpg stoker-401.jpg stoker-402.jpg stoker-403.jpg
     
    brEad, Stogy, AndersF and 2 others like this.
  6. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    I have used long time 40s lincoln bendix brakes in my hot rods. Normally with 40´s "round back" spindles.
    This is first time, I have original 1932 spindles with those brakes. Adapters between spindle and backing plate was needed. My friend made those with CNC.

    Now after made new 5x4.25" bolt circle i test fit those Chevy 17" artillery wheels and note that need 2mm spacer between drum and wheel. Same friend made those 2mm spacers after I was made drawing. CNC save so much time and sweat.... and quality is perfect. I just need to glassblast and paint.

    I made 2,5mm (1/16") extra spacer between spindle and inner hub bearing. There was one 1/4" wide spacer which is same time new surface for later model bigger seal. 1/4" was not enough, and I do not want to lathe material from drum. To my 5w coupe I need to make 3/8" wide spacers there...

    this all is "good to know" if You are plan to use same spindles, brakes,.... stoker-404.jpg

    Aulis
     
    brEad, Stogy, Ziggster and 1 other person like this.
  7. DrJekyllMrHyde
    Joined: Dec 23, 2016
    Posts: 15

    DrJekyllMrHyde
    Member


    I love the way you explain what your`e doing, it`s really helpfull when you are about to work on same type of project. It might be clear for alltime hotrodders, but for us Scandinavian guys it`s hard work to get to learn all about traditional rods, what parts, to get them, and witch ones...
    Your skills make it easier though!
    Good work, enjoy the winter and the many hours in the workshop :)
     
    Duwadd, Stogy, Ziggster and 2 others like this.
  8. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Thanks. I agree. We have to find and buy all stuff from USA..... takes very much time and money to get all here. customs fee 7-8% from CIF price + VAT 24% from CIF price. American new and old parts are expensive when those are in my garage... I built my first hot rod (www.auliz.fi -> 331cid hemi rod) in Pomona CA. Everything was so easy. Engine and body from North-Hollywood, frame from Burbank, Pick up rear axle from Long beach. Front end parts from Reids Rod Parts (Ashley Cunningham), Ladders etc from So-Cal speedshop 1/4 - 1/2 mile from my garage... Wheels from CW Moss / Derek..... Too easy. Swapmeets nearly every weekend (bakesfield, turlock, long beach, pomona...)

    This weekend I was just spend time with Oskar. Very much snow here. I have never seen so much snow in Western Finland (seinäjoki city). +20". Normally 4-8" max, last winter only few centimeter....
    I bought Harman & Collins magneto, few weeks ago, from Ebay. Arrived yesterday. today spend just couple of hours in garage. cleaning and pieced magneto. Tomorrow I send magneto coil to "magnetoman". I have learn that all +50y old magneto coil are leak all the time or when warm. When recoiled, works very good.

    59A block + crank are ready waiting for that I bolt on ford flathead industrial flywheel and grinder.
    I must grind two of my last alum. oilpan rear surfaces right lenght. stoker-405.jpg stoker-409.jpg

    Aulis
     
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  9. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,511

    nunattax
    Member

    Sounds just like ireland except we have rain instead of snow.
     
  10. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Few pics (22.2. - 28.2.2021)
    Turnsignals I will "drop" 1cm inside of headdlights.
    Handbrake and bracket is made. Handbrake spring system was gone, so I made own returnspring system.
    I have big quantity of brass bolts, maybe use some of those.

    Aulis

    stoker-410.jpg stoker-411.jpg stoker-412.jpg stoker-413.jpg stoker-414.jpg stoker-415.jpg stoker-416.jpg stoker-417.jpg stoker-418.jpg stoker-419.jpg stoker-420.jpg stoker-427.jpg
     
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  11. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Begining of March 2021

    I left 296cid flathead crank, rod, piston, pin+locks, bearing, piston rings to balancing company.
    After 1-2week I can pick up those and start to built engine.

    While I lift body off, piece it and start to sand it, wash it (grease and silicone) and paint Epoxy primer. I use industrial epoxy primer which is "heavy stuff". 10kg (20lbs) costs something +150euro (200usd). I do not use normal filler. I spray 3 round
    epoxy primer nothing else. I sand it first 400grind (plane) using Mirka abranet. After that 500grind Mirka gold or 3M similar + 3M soft hand. That´s it. Of course putty first to the steel, if needed to do that.
    Aulis

    stoker-421.jpg stoker-422.jpg stoker-423.jpg stoker-434.jpg stoker-435.jpg stoker-436.jpg stoker-437.jpg stoker-438.jpg stoker-439.jpg
     
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  12. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    last week "dusty" jobs.
    Grillshell rewelded. Those old mig weldings look bad before I open all weldings and reweld by tig. Same time rewelded and hammered to the right shape headlight bar.
    I still think that 80% of those who own mig welder are not able to use it.
    Looks same than those who has won their driving license from bingo.
    aulis

    stoker-440.jpg stoker-441.jpg stoker-442.jpg stoker-443.jpg stoker-445.jpg stoker-446.jpg stoker-447.jpg stoker-448.jpg stoker-449.jpg stoker-450.jpg stoker-451.jpg stoker-452.jpg stoker-453.jpg stoker-454.jpg stoker-455.jpg stoker-456.jpg stoker-457.jpg stoker-458.jpg stoker-459.jpg stoker-460.jpg stoker-461.jpg stoker-462.jpg stoker-463.jpg
     
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  13. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    slowly finish parts. Today 6-7hours and get ready two of those old GM artillery wheel.
    Everywhere dust,....

    Aulis


    stoker-464.jpg stoker-465.jpg stoker-466.jpg stoker-467.jpg stoker-468.jpg stoker-469.jpg stoker-470.jpg
     
    brEad, pwschuh, Stogy and 4 others like this.
  14. Man, I love those wheels.

    I so kick myself for letting the set I had go. I had 5 of them... all with good hubcaps... stupid me!

    :(

    Glen.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  15. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,511

    nunattax
    Member

    the wheels are great looking .will be worth it when they are under the car.chris
     
  16. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    I agree. My 5pc were not so good condition.... One 100% junk, two of those I have welded strongly, two of those have try to straighted in my friends big lathe machine. .... Now OK, but not 100%. Before summer I have two more. I bought those from HamB (East-Coast NY area). Those looks better but never know before get stuff here....

    Biggest job was made new bolt circle to hubs and drums. 5x4 1/4" is that early 30´s GM truck BS. Also need to lathe drum surface for shims and straight basic for wheelstuds.
    My friend made those 2mm shims between drum and wheel. CNC machine is nice this kind of job. 10min and I had 6pc shims on hand. Now can tigh wheels there without problems -> wheel is touch drum around stud bolt.
    I want to paint wheels on Saturday. Next week they can install tires on wheels in tire company and I get frame right level....

    I must drop down front and rear. Im not gonna change front support or straight it. I like original , original rivets, engine mounting places which I will use too. Rear support I want to cut and straight. Sometimes I have pieced rear axle (see my ex projects) change rearaxle tube ends from side to side. Big job, but that drop rear 3" down.
    Sometimes I have just cut rear support and reweld it more straight. Rear axle has been done ready in USA (3.54:1 RP), so I choose now easier job to make frame jobs. Front is drop down with spring change. Not so much but like more early 40s style hot rods which are not so low. Too low 1932 fords looks too much street rod --> I get spots if I have "look like" street rod in my garage or under my butt.
    Aulis
     
  17. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 18,857

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for sharing the journey @AULIZ...I always enjoy your Hotrod Adventures...;)
     
    brady1929 likes this.
  18. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,511

    nunattax
    Member

    ha ha too low is for poseurs with perfect roads
     
  19. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    wheels ready. 2days sand and fix those. Today, Saturday, morning painted. Not 100% but OK "homepaintjob".
    First early morning I tape grill, blow it with glass, retape and painted same time with wheels

    Aulis

    stoker-471.jpg stoker-472.jpg stoker-473.jpg stoker-474.jpg stoker-475.jpg stoker-477.jpg stoker-478.jpg stoker-479.jpg stoker-480.jpg
     
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  20. SPEC
    Joined: Feb 1, 2021
    Posts: 101

    SPEC
    Member

    Looks great!
     
    Stogy likes this.
  21. pwschuh
    Joined: Oct 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,381

    pwschuh
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Fantastic. Looking forward to seeing this come together.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  22. toddwkman
    Joined: Mar 8, 2021
    Posts: 18

    toddwkman

    like those wheels
     
    Stogy likes this.
  23. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Thanks. When I was Younger I spray more cars, parts like wheels... now that skill is not so good anymore.
    Its like bicycling, You never forget, but need to do it if want that it goes like early days...

    I can see there between spokes some "Norway mountings".....
     
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  24. I LOVE those wheels! And the colour is great. I had a car that colour, 'Country Cream', back in the 1980s.

    Glen.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  25. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    I do not remember what colour i used this my ex roadster wheels and grill. Maybe same "Ivory white" Ral 1015... or maybe it was 1013 oyster white

    [​IMG]
     
  26. SloanShorb33
    Joined: Feb 17, 2021
    Posts: 4

    SloanShorb33

    Stogy likes this.
  27. 47streetrodder
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 89

    47streetrodder
    Member

    Noticed your use of the brass fasteners. I've got an old stash of brass carriage bolts that I used to bolt the firewall to the cowl and also on the windshield stanchions on a T Lakester that I've been messing with. Picked these bolts up at a yard sale probably 40 year ago. Always on the lookout at garage sales for old fasteners. Buy them on the cheap. Sure beats paying retail. Your roadster is looking good.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  28. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    Thanks.
    By the way seats are very good to sit. I made those 4mm plywood pieces which I left to upholstery lady. She will increase 1-2cm foam + same skinmaterial than other panels. My semiold butt likes more seats with foam....

    You are correct. Brass bolts are good locking and not easy to find now a days. OK, You can buy new ones with today outloo, but for example "round head" bolts are old and not easy to find. Maybe I use some brass bolts this rod.


    Just looked over wheels I painted yesterday. Those are better than I think. positive surprise. Tomorrow Monday morning I drive down to see our bearing company new warehouse. I need to make roller- and leafchain cutting table there. Same time pick up my 296cid flathead parts from balancing company. Also buy two pieces 3m x 3m pop up canopy. Summer is coming, that size canopy is easy carry and use.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2021
    Stogy and AndersF like this.
  29. Nicholas Figge
    Joined: Feb 18, 2016
    Posts: 16

    Nicholas Figge

    Cool


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  30. AULIZ
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,177

    AULIZ
    Member

    I made couple of threads and weld those in to frame. Also made bracket for parachute and welded it.
    I left P-51 magnesium seats to soda blasting.

    Tomorrow I cut rear support 4pieces, straight it and back together.

    Aulis

    .

    stoker-481.jpg stoker-482.jpg stoker-483.jpg stoker-484.jpg stoker-485.jpg stoker-486.jpg
     
    brEad, Dean Lowe, Stogy and 1 other person like this.

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