This is shaping up to look similar to my p-40 build ( The A Bomb ) . Nice work ! Great minds think alike. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Monday. I short column and shaft 2 1/2" shorter than original lenght. Steering column which was bolted on this roadster will be used in my 5w coupe project. This car I choosed one rebuilt steering box with very long column shaft (originally 5" longer than normal 1932 shaft). Column tube: I weld it using two part, 1932 + 1936. Now steering wheel feel good. Right height, right far from seat. Seats are very low. It´s first time I installed seats so low. I was test sit in car (Im 5' 10") . My shoulders are lower than body line. Now I like this outlook ! What car this steering box is from? Long column shaft (5" longer than orig. 1932 pass.car column tube) when turn, 3 1/4 round from side to side (normal is +4 round) Aulis
Tuesday is ready. Drums & Hubs ready.. New 5 x 4.25 bolt circle done. Still need to lathe 5mm shims between hubs and spindles, press new wheel bolts in to holes... Two of those 1935 chevy Artillery wheels are straighted. I bought two more fom HamBer East Coast US. 59A cylinder block is ready. 3 holes get sleeve. All cylinders honed 600 stone. 59A crank is grinded 010 / 010. Bezels to hood holes are "under construction". Aulis
Wednesday I cut pass.side hood hole frame, filed it and drilled both frames. We had also "small Christmas" here. Mirka Deros 650 orbital sander + dust extractor arrived. I sell bearings to Mirka factory, so they give me 30-40% discount. Very good, my 16y old aircompressor is not so good anymore. Next winter I invest new screw compressor. Aulis
I have used long time 40s lincoln bendix brakes in my hot rods. Normally with 40´s "round back" spindles. This is first time, I have original 1932 spindles with those brakes. Adapters between spindle and backing plate was needed. My friend made those with CNC. Now after made new 5x4.25" bolt circle i test fit those Chevy 17" artillery wheels and note that need 2mm spacer between drum and wheel. Same friend made those 2mm spacers after I was made drawing. CNC save so much time and sweat.... and quality is perfect. I just need to glassblast and paint. I made 2,5mm (1/16") extra spacer between spindle and inner hub bearing. There was one 1/4" wide spacer which is same time new surface for later model bigger seal. 1/4" was not enough, and I do not want to lathe material from drum. To my 5w coupe I need to make 3/8" wide spacers there... this all is "good to know" if You are plan to use same spindles, brakes,.... Aulis
I love the way you explain what your`e doing, it`s really helpfull when you are about to work on same type of project. It might be clear for alltime hotrodders, but for us Scandinavian guys it`s hard work to get to learn all about traditional rods, what parts, to get them, and witch ones... Your skills make it easier though! Good work, enjoy the winter and the many hours in the workshop
Thanks. I agree. We have to find and buy all stuff from USA..... takes very much time and money to get all here. customs fee 7-8% from CIF price + VAT 24% from CIF price. American new and old parts are expensive when those are in my garage... I built my first hot rod (www.auliz.fi -> 331cid hemi rod) in Pomona CA. Everything was so easy. Engine and body from North-Hollywood, frame from Burbank, Pick up rear axle from Long beach. Front end parts from Reids Rod Parts (Ashley Cunningham), Ladders etc from So-Cal speedshop 1/4 - 1/2 mile from my garage... Wheels from CW Moss / Derek..... Too easy. Swapmeets nearly every weekend (bakesfield, turlock, long beach, pomona...) This weekend I was just spend time with Oskar. Very much snow here. I have never seen so much snow in Western Finland (seinäjoki city). +20". Normally 4-8" max, last winter only few centimeter.... I bought Harman & Collins magneto, few weeks ago, from Ebay. Arrived yesterday. today spend just couple of hours in garage. cleaning and pieced magneto. Tomorrow I send magneto coil to "magnetoman". I have learn that all +50y old magneto coil are leak all the time or when warm. When recoiled, works very good. 59A block + crank are ready waiting for that I bolt on ford flathead industrial flywheel and grinder. I must grind two of my last alum. oilpan rear surfaces right lenght. Aulis
Few pics (22.2. - 28.2.2021) Turnsignals I will "drop" 1cm inside of headdlights. Handbrake and bracket is made. Handbrake spring system was gone, so I made own returnspring system. I have big quantity of brass bolts, maybe use some of those. Aulis
Begining of March 2021 I left 296cid flathead crank, rod, piston, pin+locks, bearing, piston rings to balancing company. After 1-2week I can pick up those and start to built engine. While I lift body off, piece it and start to sand it, wash it (grease and silicone) and paint Epoxy primer. I use industrial epoxy primer which is "heavy stuff". 10kg (20lbs) costs something +150euro (200usd). I do not use normal filler. I spray 3 round epoxy primer nothing else. I sand it first 400grind (plane) using Mirka abranet. After that 500grind Mirka gold or 3M similar + 3M soft hand. That´s it. Of course putty first to the steel, if needed to do that. Aulis
last week "dusty" jobs. Grillshell rewelded. Those old mig weldings look bad before I open all weldings and reweld by tig. Same time rewelded and hammered to the right shape headlight bar. I still think that 80% of those who own mig welder are not able to use it. Looks same than those who has won their driving license from bingo. aulis
slowly finish parts. Today 6-7hours and get ready two of those old GM artillery wheel. Everywhere dust,.... Aulis
Man, I love those wheels. I so kick myself for letting the set I had go. I had 5 of them... all with good hubcaps... stupid me! Glen.
I agree. My 5pc were not so good condition.... One 100% junk, two of those I have welded strongly, two of those have try to straighted in my friends big lathe machine. .... Now OK, but not 100%. Before summer I have two more. I bought those from HamB (East-Coast NY area). Those looks better but never know before get stuff here.... Biggest job was made new bolt circle to hubs and drums. 5x4 1/4" is that early 30´s GM truck BS. Also need to lathe drum surface for shims and straight basic for wheelstuds. My friend made those 2mm shims between drum and wheel. CNC machine is nice this kind of job. 10min and I had 6pc shims on hand. Now can tigh wheels there without problems -> wheel is touch drum around stud bolt. I want to paint wheels on Saturday. Next week they can install tires on wheels in tire company and I get frame right level.... I must drop down front and rear. Im not gonna change front support or straight it. I like original , original rivets, engine mounting places which I will use too. Rear support I want to cut and straight. Sometimes I have pieced rear axle (see my ex projects) change rearaxle tube ends from side to side. Big job, but that drop rear 3" down. Sometimes I have just cut rear support and reweld it more straight. Rear axle has been done ready in USA (3.54:1 RP), so I choose now easier job to make frame jobs. Front is drop down with spring change. Not so much but like more early 40s style hot rods which are not so low. Too low 1932 fords looks too much street rod --> I get spots if I have "look like" street rod in my garage or under my butt. Aulis
wheels ready. 2days sand and fix those. Today, Saturday, morning painted. Not 100% but OK "homepaintjob". First early morning I tape grill, blow it with glass, retape and painted same time with wheels Aulis
Thanks. When I was Younger I spray more cars, parts like wheels... now that skill is not so good anymore. Its like bicycling, You never forget, but need to do it if want that it goes like early days... I can see there between spokes some "Norway mountings".....
I LOVE those wheels! And the colour is great. I had a car that colour, 'Country Cream', back in the 1980s. Glen.
I do not remember what colour i used this my ex roadster wheels and grill. Maybe same "Ivory white" Ral 1015... or maybe it was 1013 oyster white
Noticed your use of the brass fasteners. I've got an old stash of brass carriage bolts that I used to bolt the firewall to the cowl and also on the windshield stanchions on a T Lakester that I've been messing with. Picked these bolts up at a yard sale probably 40 year ago. Always on the lookout at garage sales for old fasteners. Buy them on the cheap. Sure beats paying retail. Your roadster is looking good.
Thanks. By the way seats are very good to sit. I made those 4mm plywood pieces which I left to upholstery lady. She will increase 1-2cm foam + same skinmaterial than other panels. My semiold butt likes more seats with foam.... You are correct. Brass bolts are good locking and not easy to find now a days. OK, You can buy new ones with today outloo, but for example "round head" bolts are old and not easy to find. Maybe I use some brass bolts this rod. Just looked over wheels I painted yesterday. Those are better than I think. positive surprise. Tomorrow Monday morning I drive down to see our bearing company new warehouse. I need to make roller- and leafchain cutting table there. Same time pick up my 296cid flathead parts from balancing company. Also buy two pieces 3m x 3m pop up canopy. Summer is coming, that size canopy is easy carry and use.
I made couple of threads and weld those in to frame. Also made bracket for parachute and welded it. I left P-51 magnesium seats to soda blasting. Tomorrow I cut rear support 4pieces, straight it and back together. Aulis .
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