The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by x77matt, Jan 4, 2018.
Looks really good! Any plans to add a drain. One of those one-way grommets perhaps?
Great idea- It is a topless car after all. I will do that. If you have any good examples, send it along!
I don't. But I think a lot of 60s cars had drains in the trunk where the spare tire well is. I'm sure you could find something that would work.
Alternately, just a little 1/8" hole at the front of the box (assuming you have a forward leaning rake).
First thing that came to mind is the old air-cooled VW caps for the crankcase.
You could weld a short tube at the low point in the box and slip this over the tube.
Check later model cars for the A/C drain. Same thing, let liquid out, but keep air and liquid from getting in. Just needs to be the low spot so it doesn't keep a 1/4" of water in the bottom...
Yup- a duckbill. That what I had pictured also. Thanks for the link.
Got distracted playing with old mini bikes but I did have time recently to pull the body back off to finish the chassis up. Still wasn’t happy with the torsional stiffness so I added Ionia hotrod shop rear half belled boxing plates. I also added a continuous brace across the top that will fall under the body cross brace. You would be amazed at how easily the top of the rails will move inward without a dedicated cross brace. I will still add some decorative gusseting to blend it with the center trans mount are which will also add some needed shear stiffness through the center.
Added a shear plate behind the trans mount that really added some good torsional stiffness. Put a bottom plate on using bits from a chassis engineering x member top plate. Added 3/8" rivet mainly for looks but they are pretty functional...
Looks great Matt. You're making progress on the '32 and the bikes!
Final bit of fabrication complete today. I am using a Schroeder anti-roll bar in the rear and I had to get the mounts fabbed up to finish the chassis. I will do some more detailed shaping on the arms but the mount to the frame is complete. Frame is officially done and ready for powder coat.
Nice work Matt
Curious if you plan to add another tab on each axle tube to have double shear on the sway bar, also, am I correct in assuming that is a mockup sway bar due to its small size.
Thanks- yeah, i still have some detail work to do on the axle tube to strengthen it better. No need for double shear though on a 3/8” bolt for the roll bar forces on this.
Also, that is the actual bar- it’s a 7/8” x 26” Schroeder bar that is .500 inch in the center. They are available in .025 increments for racing. I’ll post more pics of it when I pull it apart.
Here is more detail on the rear stabilizer bar. I’m using a Schroeder 20s00500 bar with these arm blanks (thanks @CTaulbert for the idea)
the bar fat end is 7/8, so I’m using 7/8 universal mounts going to the welded bracket on my cross bar.
Still waiting on the frame at the powder coater as he had to special order my color (1969 Ford Royal Maroon) but I did get my axle housings, torque tube and wishbones back. I did them in gloss black. I sent my pinion out Saturday to @HotRodWorks to get the splined end ground for the halibrand rear cover bearing. Once it’s back I’m ready to assemble the rear axle!!
Matt, You are doing an Awesome job with this build. I really dig how you made the support legs and trans top.
Great progress, great work!
Thanks Guys! I’m looking forward to the chassis coming back home after powder coat! I just hope I didn’t miss any major welds or fab!
How about some closeup shots of the chassis' powdercoat finish.
Sure thing- I expect it may take another week or two due to Covid delta on shipping powder from the supplier.
This is what I’m using- 1969 ford royal Maroon. It is very close to 48 Ford Monsoon maroon
More progress over the last week. Last weekend I flipped the body over and finished the detail welding on the bottom and then shot it with some 1969 Ford Royal Maroon so it will be ready to set on the chassis when it gets back.
This weekend I got my pinion back from @HotRodWorks and it looks great. I had them grind the ford pinion to accept the rear cover bearing. I spent a day and a half setting it up but it all went straight forward. I had spent the previous couple weeks preparing the parts for it though. The pinion bore in my case was set up with a smaller bore for a ball bearing pinion, but I wanted to use a stock Ford Double tapered roller. I carefully ground the pinion bearing race on my belt grinder to achieve a 3 thousandths press fit into the case. Also I had to use my trusty brake hone to ream the front and rear bearings for the lower shaft.
I used the VanPelts website to follow the procedure for setting the carrier bearing preload and lash. I ended up with .004” backlash and 15 inch pounds of preload on the pinion. I put the bells on and off about 20 times but had a great result (I hope).
Great perseverance setting up that rear end! Everything is coming along.
Chassis is back from powder coat today! While it was out I have been messing with my engine and also getting the front and rear suspensions buttoned up. Today I picked up the Frame and mocked the suspension in place with my roller tire and wheel set. I’ll actually scuff and paint the frame rail outer section to match the body, but the rest of the powder coat will be pretty close in color.
Nice work, Matt. Has the former Template owner seen it?
Yup- I’ve been keeping him entertained with photos. He approves so far
Brake lines and chassis bits roughed in. Exhaust is just hanging there waiting for the motor, but it’s in enough to put the body back on to finish the body work. Old chrome parts cleaned up pretty well too!
Looks great! Putting the running gear together for the last time is always a great feeling.
You're doing a fine job Matthew!
Just on the rear floors did you use originals, as I read earlier in the post about them. With the body turned over with paint on thay look stock?
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