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1932 chevy axle 5x4 3/4 conversion?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by built to drag, Dec 20, 2007.

  1. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    i would like to use the factory axle and upgrade to hydrualic brakes disc or drum. and use a 5x 4 3/4 bolt pattern. does any one have any suggestions about how to approach this?
    heres the factory 6 lug manual brakes.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Check with some of the Chevy oriented hotrod suppliers. Perhaps the later spindles can be used on the early axle and then either 49-54 brakes or discs can be adapted.
     
  3. PLEASE go with drums! Or just get some nice 6 lug steelies. Anything but the dubs.
     
  4. 35Chevy.com
    Joined: Nov 27, 2007
    Posts: 542

    35Chevy.com
    Member
    from New Jersey


  5. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    lol i have a few sets of wheels here for the car. some g76 white walls too.
    i have heard that the 49- 54 stuff works. so i called speedway motors and a tech is tellin me other wise. i keep getting the run around followed by you should have just bought a ford. i want to keep the car as original as possible i wont use mustang front ends or ford axles.


    drums are fine ill run any thing that uses 5x 4 3/4 bolt any thing at this point.
     
  6. if you 'just go with a ford' i'll hook you up with a a sedan and take all your chevy stuff.....

    I got to double check , but i beleive 57, 58, or 59 chevy 1/2 ton truck brakes are a direct bolt on! no need to change anything other than the mechanical crap and add brake lines!

    BTW, feel free to post pics of you chevy! l love old wooden cars!
     
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,518

    squirrel
    Member

    51-59 chevy truck backing plates, 51-54 car hubs/drums
     
  8. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    nice i appreciate all the help. the kit i want to order is from speedway motors. i just got off the phone with another tech who seems to know his subject pretty well. he knows 100 percent this kit will work on 34 and 37 chevys since he has both. so if those years used the same specs as mine im in good shape. i hope. i have also been told 70s eccono van spindals will work as well. heres a link to the kit. what do you think?

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/544...vy-and-1937-48-Ford-Spindles.html?itemNo=1949
     
  9. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    i think im going to start a project thread on here. i like all feed back positive and negative.
     
  10. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,518

    squirrel
    Member

    good! I'll give you some negative feedback (or just a suggestion really), try the hydraulic drum brakes first, they should stop the car just fine, and they will surely help the traditional look.
     
  12. john56h
    Joined: Jan 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,767

    john56h
    Member

    Those kits aren't cheap either...$500-600


    I dont think Econoline spindles are a direct fit on the Chevy axle either.
     
  13. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    i know the kits are a bit pricey. 500 for the one i need, free shipping though =) till the 12th. i dont have much in to the car so 500 wont kill me. just hurt alot. if any one has a 49-54 set up throw a price at me. i have been looking on ebay and some forums and came up with nada. what makes it worse i missed a complete set up in my state about a month ago. that went for peanuts. my damn internet went down and the auction was over by the time it started working. i paniced and was gona run to the library but they were closed too. lol i couldnt win.

    speedway gave me some dimensions. the king pin bore is .867 the pin length is 5.3 and the axle boss is 2.125. thats what the kit will work on.

    i havent taken mine apart yet to measure it, if any one knows it would help.
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,518

    squirrel
    Member

    49-54 is not quite right, you want 51-54, the 49-50 brakes are really crappy compared to the newer ones. And the 51-59 truck backing plates will work, these trucks used an axle and spindles similar to yours.
     
  15. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    well after some taking apart and measurements. here what i came up with all is the same but the bore of the kingpin. mine is bored at .725 the kit is .867. Nothing a machine shop cant do for me. the only other thing i was wondering is. would the camber be any different? i would like to just buy this as a complete kit to make my life easier. so far so good. thank s to all who helped...
     
  16. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    hey i have a dynaco studio 60 solid state and preamp. how can i figure out the year? no old PCs though =)
     
  17. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,518

    squirrel
    Member

    Look on google till you find a stereo just like it, and see if you can get an idea from that how old it is.

    The Speedway kit you linked to is for a Ford axle, right? not quite what you want.

    Sometimes you have to face the fact that it's better to build a hot rod with junkyard parts and know-how, than to just buy whatever kits there are on the market :)
     
    Nailhead A-V8 likes this.
  18. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    well the kit wasnt designed to work with my axle. but alot of people retro fit the stock 54 spindals.
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,518

    squirrel
    Member

    There's really no need to change spindles, the later drums go on them with a bit of work (you need to use the original old inner bearing inner race). Or if you do go with disk brakes the ECI kit has a sleeve that fits over the original spindle to make the rotor fit right.

    Also the 49-54 car spindles have a different kin pin inclination than your axle would....so it won't work anyways
     
  20. john56h
    Joined: Jan 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,767

    john56h
    Member

    No offense intended here...but, as Squirrel mentions, the used parts are not too bad and they are not very hard to find. It sounds like you do most of your "shopping" on the computer and I hate to tell you, but networking with fellow car nuts is the best way to scrounge cheap parts.

    Find out who in your area is into antique and hotrodded car/trucks and put the word out about what you are looking for. So much stock stuff has been removed from nice 50's cars recently, there is bound to be some good hydraulic drum brakes around that were already restored and then removed in favor of some aftermarket disk set up. When you find it, the price will likely be cheap.

    If you are in the central Jersey area, check out the Garden State Vintage Stock Car Club. Their members are often building 50's through 70's style race cars and they use bodies from mostly late 30's Chevy coupes and sedans. They don't use any of the original brakes, suspension or drivelines, so perhaps some members of that club would have some parts available cheap. Here's their website:
    http://www.gsvscc.org/
     
    Nailhead A-V8 likes this.
  21. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    ohh nice! i appreciate the help. i just started tearing the car down a few weeks ago so im a bit new to the whole thing. its my first rod.
     
  22. I got my '40 Ford hyd. brakes here for like $175, don't even need new shoes. Disks are gaaaay.
     
  23. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    i was reading that the beam axles have 7 degree inclinaiona nd the ifs have 4 degrees. so i would have postive 3 camber. not good. i m going to have to look for some old stuff like you said.

    so does any one have any parts for me?
     
  24. H.A.M.B.er Unclee and I will be modying some Buick and Ford brakes soon, I want the look of the Buick finned drums, with easy/cheap late model guts, self-energizing, to fit ford spindles. I will take lots of measurements and photos. This stuff is all availible from guys here on the H.A.M.B. if you don't have any good junkyards locally(I don't). Disk brakes really blow the look of an early car, and drums are plenty to stop a light hot rod. Do it right the first time and you'll be glad you did. You can always get expensive ugly discs later if you still want them.
     
  25. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,518

    squirrel
    Member

    I think I have the truck backing plates and probably the brake hardware, but no hubs/drums. pm me shipping info...
     
  26. john56h
    Joined: Jan 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,767

    john56h
    Member


    I think you may be misinterperating the effects of differing kingpin inclination.

    The angle of the kingpin inclination does not necessarily dictate the camber angle. The change from using a 4 degree spindle on a 7 degree axle may in fact be a bigger change in camber degrees. Remember that the spindle pin is not always in the center between the two kingpin bosses. Also, as the wheels are turned through their steering arcs, an improper inclination angle may cause severe camber or caster changes.
     
  27. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    to be honest with you i dont have a clue. im here to learn. i really want to keep the chevy axle and not run an aftermarket or use a ford. its made really nice and is a beautiful thing. i decided to get this chevy because you dont see too many being built. if i can over come this obsticle i think the rest of the build will go pretty smooth. i have no experience with beam axles what so ever. i just want to do it right the first time. thanks for every ones help so far. its very appreciated
     
  28. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    pm sent
     
  29. john56h
    Joined: Jan 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,767

    john56h
    Member

    You are doing the right thing....educating yourself! It is best to know and understand what you are dealing with before obtaining a lot of parts that end up being the wrong ones.

    Unfortunately, the only parts I could offer would be the original 6 bolt variety. I think you are smart to try to switch to the 5 x 4-3/4 pattern for the best choice in wheels. I assume you'll be replacing the entire rear axle assembly with an open drive rear that already has the same wheel pattern?

    Here's a link to our build progress of the 1933 Chevy...might be of some help.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165476

    Good luck to you.
     
  30. built to drag
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 55

    built to drag
    Member

    hey! i already have the rear which is out of a 95 camaro. its 65 inches mounting surface to mounting surface. so with some reverse offset steelies i should have enought clearance. eventaully i ll throw a posi in it as well. i have every thing i need for this thing except the steelies for the rear and the front set up. i m running the car fenderless so i want to keep it looking as original or period correct as possible. yeah i m here to learn. i can spend hours on this site!
     

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