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1932 5 window construction

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SUHRsc, Sep 18, 2008.

  1. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    Does anyone have a 32 Ford 5-window body with the stock floors in?
    I need pictures of how all the subrails and braces attach.
    door jam areas, trunk areas, wheelwells, and also raingutter.

    finally, i need dimensions from the bottom of the "top" body line down to the top of the "bottom" body line or any specific dimensions to help figure the original height of a channeled body exactly correct and stock

    thanks for any help
    Zach
     
  2. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    A big step towards this is to simply get a pair of rear fender$ and an original firewall and bolt them to a frame;fenders jig the rear body, firewall allows you to pull cowl to proper shape and height with the body adjuster bolts. That might almost do it all without any numbers...
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    If you do it that way make sure you put the rubber gasket under the cowl/firewall joint, the spacer/welting under the firewall, and some fender welt on the fenders.
     
  4. myke
    Joined: Dec 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,134

    myke
    Member
    from SoCal


    Uh oh sounds like someone is starting a big project.

    Bruce and alchemy are giving you the best advice.
     

  5. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks guys!
    so im gona have to find some rear fenders.... fast!
     
  6. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    "The Deuce...the only car that jigs itself..."
    We were talking about that weight difference between roadster and 5W the other day.

    It has since occurred to me...a big part of the (small) difference is simply the 5W's elaborate seat structure.
    You might want to look into the possibility of using a roadster seat riser and building seat from that...probably lose half the weight difference right there.
     
  7. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    sooo...you went and got it?...:D...cool.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks bruce,
    good to know!

    larry.... not yet.... soon!
    get my gold chain packaged up! :D
     
  9. Terrence
    Joined: Jan 9, 2003
    Posts: 315

    Terrence
    Member

    How long do you need to borrow rear fenders for? Let me get mine straightened up a bit and you can have them for a couple of weeks if that helps.
     
  10. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    terrence, i was gona ask you that
    shouldnt need them more then a week or 2
    thanks!
     
  11. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,585

    Dale Fairfax
    Member Emeritus

    C'mon over to Indy and you can look at mine. It's all stock except for a 2" haircut. While you're here we'll talk about Track Roadsters-Mutual style- and you can look at all my M.R.A pictures.
     
  12. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks,
    dale... thats a bit of a haul for me... but i'd love to stop by sometime when im out there and see your picture collection

    ron,
    those pictures will help ALOT, thank you!

    Zach
     
  13. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    anyone know where to get the correct rivets to assemble the subrails?
    or what i should order from a generic rivet company?
    are they heatset in the rails or just soft steel compressed with an air chisel?

    thanks
     
  14. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    any ideas on the rivets?
     
  15. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,746

    The37Kid
    Member

    BIG FLATS RIVET Co. is THE PLACE for all your rivet needs. Real nice guy, sets up about 10 spots from me at Hershey, Google Big Flats and his website will pop up. Rivets and every tool you'll need to set them. That firewall rear fender setup is the way to go. Rear fenders don't have to be in good shape, just need that front section that bolts to the frame to locate things.http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/
     
  16. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

  17. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    ok ran into a snag here trying to figure out the subrails.... i assumed i could just bolt them onto the stock frame and go

    at the back beyond the axle centerline, the subrails from brookville curve outward, about an inch away from the frame on each side at the end, theres an extension piece that steps out to match the rear corner of the body and would "i think" hide this. but there isnt a tight fit of the rails onto the frame

    on the roadster body i had this was flush all the way back and stopped where the shock would bolt on

    does anyone have a 5 window they can look under and see how this looks?
    possibly a measurement across the floor from inner wheel well to inner wheel well inside the trunk, and then the total width at the far back above the gas tank, say around the bead?

    heres what im working with below

    thanks alot!
    Zach

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    shes a real "HIGHBOY" now! :D
    [​IMG]
     
  18. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

  19. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    I have a beat 5w here. I am lost with what you are asking about the measurement around the bead. Another thing; do you have the extension piece that bolts to the back edge of the floor and connects all the way across the "below deck lid panel"? Seems like if you still had it, then the floor & rear sills would all fall into place...from what I see you are doing so far.

    I can email pics of that extension (orig 32). I can't trust the width between the wells on mine as it was channeled.
     
  20. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks F&J, i think i figured it out

    i realized what brookville did wrong, they hammered the top of the subrail down which inturn pushed the side out, so when the inner structure was welded in, it aligned with the now out of wack stamped top inturn making the subrail flair out about 3/4" or so on each side
    a few slices and its back in shape now

    thanks
    Zach
     
  21. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,144

    titus
    Member

    i think we need some more pics!

    jeff
     
  22. Yes I second this
     
  23. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    ron, i used your pics to figure out what i needed
    your car is sure an inspiration for me piecing this thing back together, thanks for that!

    does anyone know the best supplier for the material that goes between the firewall and the body? i need to make up the distance in there and have it be right to align the pillars correctly

    thanks
     
  24. I just ran across your post. I have several 5W's, one of which is a never touched bone stock gennie. Let me know which measurements and/or pics you want if still need them and I'll get them for you tomorrow. I agree with F&J about the extension piece. Is it still in your body? I can't tell for sure from the photos but it almost looks like its there yet. The gasket between the firewall and body is a formed rubber gasket that fits all '32s. Dick Spadaro has it.

    Pat No. B-7001620 Fits all 1932 Each 15.00

    Here's a link to his catalog: http://www.dickspadaro.com/page_34.html
    -
     
  25. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks alot
    I'll keep you in mind on more pics/measurements
    I'll try pick up a cowl seal at Hershey, save shipping!

    the body has nothing in it on the bottom, just sheetmetal down the sides
    it was channeled very crudely so all got sliced out
     
  26. Zach, if you don't have it already, pick up a tail pan extension at Hershey, too. That's the back piece you need for your floor. Here's the description/part number and the link to Dick Spadaro's catalog to see it:

    B-161 - 1932 Tail Pan Extension - $40.00

    http://www.dickspadaro.com/page_12.html
     
  27. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks, i do actually have that already, just not attached

    im going to spot weld as much as i can before hershey, then get rivets there and install them later as more of a cosmetic thing

    do the beads in the extension go opposite of the beads in the floor pan, pan go down ext go up?

    thanks!
     
  28. Here is a link to my photo bucket account where you should be able to blow the pics up. If you need anything else just let me know.

    http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r52/checkeredstrip/
     
  29. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

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