Im going to replace my complete subframe assembly. I was wondering here if anyone has delt with the one offered online at eBey. They say it's very well made. But for the cost and shipping it would be $750 to my door. Has anyone had to do the same and if so may I ask where did you buy yours from. I've heard a lot of these sheet metal and frame parts are all made by the same place. If that's true or not I don't know ? Any inputs pros and cons would be helpful. Thanks. Chris. Here is a crappy pic of the subframe assembly I'm looking at.
If it come's as pictured,I'de say go for it. I'm very close to that # with individual pieces.Might have to reinforce=a few beads here and there, but if it was jig assembled,and you don't have to fit everything, a lot less headaches...... remove old stuff,slide that in....... MY .02C
I agree with Invisible. If I had to make that for a customer it would be more than $750, I can't speak for the quality of the ebay part, which I guess was your main question, but I think it could easily save you tons of time trying to duplicate it piece by piece. I also think that you should look it over and after you fit it up into your body remove it, hammer-and-dolly all the seams tightly shut and add more welds to any joints that look like it could it.
IF, it is all jig built and riveted together that would be the way to go, shipping would be the biggest part of the total cost IMO. I'm saving an original for my Roadster and so far I have pieces from three different bodies plus the new crossmembers. New is a lot faster. Bob
Thanks for the inputs. Ya the cost for the assembly is $593.00 s/h is $130 to my shop. So $750 was just rounded off. It would be a little less. Here's my deal. My original subrails are mainly shot at the rear (doors back). I can get the rear subrails and cross members for less than half the cost of full assembly. I already have the new rear sub rail that mates the 2 side subs together. My biggest concern is how to properly weld the new (rear subrails ) to my original front half subrails. They highly recommend not to replace the full length if not needed. Because it involves a lot more work. My 31 sets today just as seen in my avatar pic. I've been searching through older post trying to find pics or info on the same thing I'm wanting to do here. My build isn't going to be ratrod and not a show winner. Just a reliable hotrod I can enjoy . Thanks again.
I'm in the same boat=neither. But- after I bought all the components,and don't have a frame to affix to=stocker- because mine's not, I purchased rails and crossmembers/ kick-up's....... Going to have to modify everything. Just nice to eleviate any added labor,and if it's a swap,better yet. You can graft things,or go for the whole shebang.... In my case,it's everything,so I can't patch in... Decission time..... Possibly find some cut out's? Or fab? come's down to what you want to tackle with things..... I would splice for myself,but with nothing there,that ain't an option!
On second thought............do your doors close nicely, is everything from the doors forward OK? If so maybe the replacement of the rear sections are the way to go. I took two sheets of MDF and made a build table for my Roadster subframe. Traced the front section that was good to the back of the doors. Then removed it, kept the cowl, and added originals that were about 3/4 full length using the tracing from the front section. There may be photos in my build thread, I'll go check. Bob
That rear section of sub rail will get replaced with a kickup for the '32 rails it will go on some day. Having a dead stock subrail will help in the body assembly. Bob
I bought one. I contacted the company they gave a couple options to purchase it. I got mine with the storage tray under the seat. The company told me it was a brooksville piece. A little slow shipping, great communication with the company. Part wasn't perfect but better then what I had. I would buy another. I think the name of the company was american muscle car.
you should buy the whole new set-up and ship your old one to me! he he he. seriously, the stampings i have seen are excellent
Got my pieces through Bratton's in Mt Airy, MD. Parts shipped from Brookville. No rivet holes or body mount holes. Took a while to measure the old bent ones, layout and assemble on the frame. Thank God for clecos.
SAME! not from them,just a supplier=no hole's! At least you had "old bent one's" I've got NOTHING! but saw a post,to a link ,to make a jig which has the correct measurements......=2x4's Just might fit to the body- all I have to go off is the rear,=nack panel forward,and work forward. have to make new body mounts anyways,so it's gonna be a P,I,A! Some of you have it easy!!!!!
Well I broke down and ordered my Brookville subrails frame assembly. Complete and assembled on a jig . I bought it from American Muscle Car , Jim is the Owner and and a nice guy. I would have to say though the communication with the company isn't what I expected but overall they seem alright. I'm waiting now for my assembly ,that had to build to order as they don't keep them just laying around . They sent me tracking info for the freight company and since it's coming from Ohio and I'm in Illinois so hopefully I'll have it Monday if not Tuesday at the latest. I'll try and post a pic or 2 of it when it arrives. Thanks for all the inputs
20 years ago I bought full replacement subrails and cross channels from Macs and metal pans from either Bitchin or Brookville. Probably cost $500 and I still had to weld them together.
Kool49, Is your new Brookville subrail assembly for a Roadster? If you plan to use it on the Coupe in your avitar the door area will need to be modified. Bob
My Oder was for the Coupe assembly. Well it arrived to the shop this past Monday. I signed for it and got back to work at the shop. So I didn't open until after work ours only to find it had been smashed badly during transit. Dayton Freight. , so now I'm waiting for the shipper to file damage claims. This sucks. Make damn sure you open anything before you sign for it. Now just waiting for seller to do his part.
The Jalopy Journal
