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Projects 1931 Roadster AV8 Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 53studecoupe, Nov 30, 2019.

  1. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,152

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    i curved our hockey teams sticks in the '70s...
    maybe set up a way to steam those end pieces, and then a clamp set up where they can cool...
     
    warbird1 and 48fordnut like this.
  2. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    That would be the correct way to create them. The ends pieces I purchased were not but were cut down to fit the contour. It caused them to look too thin.
     
    48fordnut likes this.
  3. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    With most of the interesting stuff pretty much done I have not posted anything. I have been working on the motor. Fixing broken exhaust bolts and putting a few heli coils in place. I decided I don't want to drop over $400 for a shorty generator and went with a one wire alternator. I know not very period correct for a 50's hot rod. But I did use the saddle clamp with a longer strap.
    1.375 x 13.0 18ga. I cut the mounting ears making it look a little more round. The front pulley works with my early 30's fan. A little faux paint and there you have it. 20210917_131730.jpg
     
    Tim, continentaljohn, Jet96 and 6 others like this.
  4. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

  5. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    A nice day here in WI in Nov.
    Time to doing some painting.
    I blasted my 40 backing plates and drums of rust. Actually only one front drum had some pitting but the blast cabinet took care of that.
    Black...is there any color?
    With all the parts ready for reassembly we should have a car with working brakes soon. The goal here is to have the car running by August next year. 20211108_133422.jpg 20211109_121629.jpg 20211109_122824.jpg
     
    Tim, hfh, GordonC and 6 others like this.
  6. choppedrod63
    Joined: Oct 14, 2005
    Posts: 87

    choppedrod63
    Member

    I LOVE IT! Your doing a great job! I am kinda hating that you make it look so easy! lol
     
  7. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Thanks!
     
  8. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    I called around the local area for brake shoe riveting. Boy things sure change don't they. The old Wis brake and clutch company has closed up years ago and there is one company left that charges $120/hr. Not that was my plan but it had a nostalgic feel about riveting linings on like the old days. Sure you can buy new shoes for $120 but part of my build is experiencing the old ways of 80 years ago. Isnt this why we do this. A time with my dad sitting out front of the garage and me as a youngster watching him do hand work in admiration.

    My shoulder will not take bucking 80 rivets. A air chisel will come into play somewhere.

    Some of my shoes are glued replacements and come off with a chisel and hammer. A little roll loc clean up and I pondered again when things were simpler. The good old USA picture needs no comment..... 20211110_083954.jpg 20211110_090254.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2021
    badgascoupe, Tim, -Brent- and 3 others like this.
  9. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    I am so glad I had a dad growing up. Yeah he was very stern, ex military. But a teacher at heart.
    Not sure what was in my coffee this morning!
    I digress.....
     
    A Boner, -Brent-, brEad and 1 other person like this.
  10. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    20211111_104920.jpg I was able to figure out the rivet process. DONT RIVET THEM TO MUCH! YOU WILL CRACK THE LINING!
    I turned the air pressure down some and didnt stay on the rivet too long. You just need to get a nice mushroom. 20211110_132331.jpg 20211110_132344.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2021
    Tim, brEad, kadillackid and 2 others like this.
  11. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 2,296

    wheeldog57
    Member

    @53studecoupe I just went through the whole thread. What a great time I had escaping from the day to day grind. Thank you for that, you are doing a fantastic job.
     
  12. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Yeah sometimes we need to kick back and enjoy what we have. I am recently on disability and it puts a different view on things. Family, friends, free time, car parts and not necessarily in that order......

    Sometimes you need to seat behind the wheel and imagine this thing is going to run someday. If I look real hard I thought the tach just moved.

    Hey guys thanks for putting up with ranting. LOL. 20211111_104721.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2021
    Greenblade, xsqzme, NoSurf and 3 others like this.
  13. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    You are most welcome my friend.
     
  14. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Another milestone was reached yesterday. The motor went to the machine shop to get everything machined.
    I found a shop in Janesville WI called Pakes. Ask for Jim. They has an extensive background in flatheads.
    The total machine shop bill was quoted at $1275. That's if everything listed was needed.
    .010/.010 crank/check balance.
    Recondition rods both ends
    Block: hot tank and blast magaflux for cracks.
    Deck/bore (3.312)/hone/ line bore check
    New cam bearings
    Valve job.
    Heads sight resurface.

    I think that was a pretty fair price. What do you guys think?
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2021
  15. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Did mention it will be 8 weeks!
    With that I can now finish up a lot of little things I didn't have time for. Like getting more clearance. I had two choices
    1. Reheat the drop steering arms and bend them down.
    2. Offset the ends of the steering linkage to tie rods.
    I went with the offset on the steering linkage. It's a very thick wall DOM tube. It will not weaken the tube with some smooth bends. I have 2" to the bottom of the frame with 3" of shock movement. Needed at least 3.25" and 1/2" clearance to the wish bones lock to lock. 20211117_124555.jpg
     
    brEad, GordonC and Aaron D. like this.
  16. steve hackel
    Joined: Mar 5, 2010
    Posts: 315

    steve hackel
    Member

    That's for doing a V8 engine....? Please post their information, or at least send mea private message and let me know wh I and where they are located, as I need one done also. Thanks
     
  17. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Yes that's for a Ford 8ba flathead. I added their contact info in the post.
     
  18. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 301

    getow
    Member

    Wow. I think that sounds pretty dam good to me. Great progress on the project to boot.
     
  19. NJ Don
    Joined: Dec 25, 2019
    Posts: 110

    NJ Don
    Member

    Love it!! Great work!
     
  20. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Thanks guys for the kind words.
    Added this little jem (signal stat 700) to the steering column. It has the perfect finish to match the rest of the car. The front driving lights serve as turn signals with the use of LED switch back units. More on that when I start the wiring. 20210719_173301.jpg 20211118_154625.jpg
     
  21. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Bad news today. I got a call from the machine shop and my block has a crack in cylinder #1. The block was questionable with a very deep gouge running down the cylinder.
    I was hoping worse case it needed a sleeve. The machine shop didn't feel comfortable with sleeving a cracked cylinder.
    So I called a friend who had a free 8BA motor but it is frozen tight on 4 cylinders. I spent most of the afternoon busting pistons up. Stock bore so it should clean up .125" over.
    Tomorrow I will tackle the valves. Hopefully this block with pass magnaflux.
     
  22. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Update on free 8BA block. This one is worse than my first one.
    On to number 3!
    20211120_123814.jpg
     
  23. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    My friend ran to pickup a new door for his shop so I nosed around a little. Two more flatheads but they are 59A early ones. Not for sale either. 20211120_124841.jpg 20211120_124956.jpg
     
  24. You will find more cracked ones than good ones, has been my experience
     
    Jet96 likes this.
  25. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    I read here that might be the case. I have another opportunity next week to check out another "good block".
     
  26. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,135

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Roadster is looking great buddy and amazing how you just bought bits and put together a bitchen hotrod. Sorry to hear about the flathead block issues.
    I look at the dozen flatheads I have and wonder what’s with all the cracked blocks. Is it freezing or cause by overheating stress. I will say that I try to buy motors that run but are they really good crack free motors or over priced boat anchors
     
    Nailhead A-V8 likes this.
  27. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Thanks John. Thanks to you I got started with the cowl.
    I called Rich Bickel Sr. Of the Nascar fame and he said he had a good block for me. I pick it up Weds.
     
    continentaljohn likes this.
  28. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    While sourcing the block set for after Thanksgiving, I started putting the brakes on.
    The front is pretty straight forward. The back brought up an issue I remember reading here about the wheel cylinder brake line running into the rear model A spring perch. Yep you will never get a line in there if you are using a stock lenght spring. Also you will not get the backing plates nuts in between the spring perch if you don't take that in consideration before welding them in. I know.

    20211124_153914.jpg
    Next is to redrill the backing plate holes clocked 1" to rotate the wheel cylinder to the rear to clear the spring perch. All good.
    20211124_135629.jpg
     
    continentaljohn and GordonC like this.
  29. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 321

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Before I forget. Any one know where these rear end blue washers go? 20211124_154154.jpg

    Everyone have a Happy Thanksgiving.
    Ken
     
    brEad likes this.
  30. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 559

    Little Terry
    Member

    In the ends of the hubs, behind the washer and castle nuts?
     
    continentaljohn likes this.

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