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Projects 1931 Roadster AV8 Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 53studecoupe, Nov 30, 2019.

  1. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Here is a picture showing what I was up against. The passenger side profile is totally sprung. Made relief cuts to the edge and clamped a 2x6 across the inside and pulled it into shape. I over formed it because I know when you weld the relief cuts is will pull back some. Just trial 20210426_171916.jpg and error.

    Now that's as good as it going to get!
    20210427_154535.jpg 20210427_154509.jpg 20210427_154512.jpg 20210427_155251.jpg
     
    48fordnut, Tim, Bandit Billy and 6 others like this.
  2. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    A little more finish welding and adjust bottom gap a little and she is good to go!
     
  3. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    getow
    Member

  4. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    I made a decision not to replace the wood in the quarter or back of the seat but replace them with tubing. 1.5"sq x .125 for the door jam.
    1.0x1.5" x .062 for the upper quarter curved piece
    1.25"sq x .125 for the balance.
    I will add a cross brace as soon as I figure out what gas tank I will use.
    Just tacked and the back half of the body is extremely ridged. It will assist in keeping everything aligned. Now I can finish welded the quarter panels up. 20210502_164600.jpg
     
    dana barlow, GordonC and brEad like this.
  5. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,779

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    broken record i know,
    but if you are making or buying a trunk mounted tank,
    the hight times width times length ... divided by 231 will give you the gallons in that tank...
    make a cardboard box that fits your trunk, measure and figure out it's capacity...
     
    48fordnut likes this.
  6. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Is there anything that might be period correct instead of a new fuel cell looking tank?
     
  7. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    My seat is from a Dodge mini van. 2nd row.
    It is a fixed seat meaning it doesn't flip forward like my pickup truck.
    It got me to thinking just take out the top bolt on each side. I now have a flip seat. So I added a little more tubing and made a bulkhead
    Out of plywood. 20210506_160400.jpg 20210506_160345.jpg
     
  8. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

  9. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    A quick check to see how the headers fit with the fenders. Like they we made to fit....oh yea they were. LOL. 20210514_131633.jpg 20210514_131258.jpg
     
    Tim, Gruntis, dana barlow and 2 others like this.
  10. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

  11. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,779

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I am not a fender guy but if that front fender to exhaust is too close, have you thought of using '28-'29 fender, splash apron and running boards ?
    they stay closer to the tire , may buy a little more clearance...
    buddy has a glass one, would be great for a mock up... $0.02.
     
  12. Whoever put the Cadillac in my roadster c. 1960 got the headers a little too close to the cowl sides... blistered the paint on both sides. One of the things that will be fixed this time around.
     
  13. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    If I was concerned about the paint you both are correct. I only cared if they rattle against the sheet metal. I have a 1/2" to the cowl and 1/4" to the fender. I might relieve the fender if required. Thanks guys.
     
    ottoman and warbird1 like this.
  14. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    I saw a couple of posts about bobing rear fenders so this morning I took the plunge after removing all layers of paint. I believe I read 2.5" below the fender brace hole and remove 4.0". I change that in my case due to a lot of repair welds where in that area. Just under the fender brace hole I could eliminate all that poor repair work. A little more work was involved because to two profiles are different. Hey what is a little more hammer and dolly work. It doesnt look as dramatic as I thought. Maybe 5.0" would be better. What do you think? 20210518_102236.jpg
    20210518_150437.jpg 20210518_145801.jpg 20210518_153044.jpg
     
    simplestone, dana barlow and GordonC like this.
  15. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 2,401

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice job on the fender! I took 5 3/4" out of mine.

    20200409_195152.jpg 20160314_180718.jpg
     
  16. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    The 1.75" makes a difference but not enough to do it over. I guess we have the same tastes. Looks good.
     
    GordonC and dana barlow like this.
  17. Nick Nadol
    Joined: May 18, 2021
    Posts: 14

    Nick Nadol

    Hard to find them in good shape.
     
  18. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    I lucked out and found some nice fenders and aprons that where removed to make a hot rod. The rest was single sourced piece by piece. I couldn't find one complete car that was basically rust free within my budget.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2021
    dana barlow likes this.
  19. slowspoke
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 40

    slowspoke
    Member

    Wow, the pin striping looks good on the fenders!
     
    GordonC likes this.
  20. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 2,401

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  21. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Now it time to do some rust repair on one of the front fenders and get them mounted.
    The only rust I had was replacing the mounting flange for the running boards. I used a piece of 12ga to replace the original double thickness piece. The new running boards served as a hole template.
    20210524_110550.jpg 20210524_114814.jpg 20210524_115426.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2021
    brEad and simplestone like this.
  22. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    20210518_141015.jpg View attachment 5072334 View attachment 5072334 Now mounting my fenders was a little bit more of a challenge. My model a frame came to me boxed. To bolt things to it I used in this case I used flange nuts from McMaster Carr. Drill a hole and weld in place. The thickness of the flange is minimal and works well. 20210524_123204.jpg 20210524_123157.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2021
    48fordnut, Tim and brEad like this.
  23. getow
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    getow
    Member

    Yep my A frame was boxed prior to my buying it also. I used something similar to that mounting my body also. What i used was a tad bit more heavy duty, but same concept. Worked out pretty good. Actually easier than bolts and nuts.
     
  24. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

  25. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    A change in plans is in the works yet again. A member here had a convertible top for sale which was apparently for a much longer and narrower car. For the right price, I took a gamble that my mad fab skills would prevail. A quick mock up proved I believe I can create the low look and keep the oak bows and irons sort of like stock.
    1. Add 4.875 to each bow width. ✔ 20210530_081303.jpg
    20210529_164240.jpg 20210531_084303.jpg 20210531_154046.jpg 2. Shorten the folding irons with the corner clamps holding the windshield at a nice layed back look. My goal is to have all three choices: up, down, and totally removed if I want. I may just like it so much I might just leave it in place.
     
    sloppy jalopies likes this.
  26. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    Here is with some more adjustments. I need to make the front bow now out of some red oak. I will have to glue up some stock and blend the edges. Hope the corner clamps will work. They are kind of at wrong angle with the stanchions layed back.
    20210601_142655.jpg
    20210601_144915.jpg 20210601_144929.jpg
     
    48fordnut, brEad, ottoman and 2 others like this.
  27. Very nice workmanship!!!! love it...............
     
  28. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

  29. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 12,684

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looking good
     
  30. 53studecoupe
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 215

    53studecoupe
    Member
    from Eagle WI

    20210602_175800.jpg Sharing my fine wood working skills on the bows. I also glued up the front header out of red oak.
    Top 1×3 bottom 1x2. Don't own a router so this makes due for the windshield slot.
    Corners radius thanks to a rattle can lid. Front needs the same the whole length. Then make up some steel brackets to fasten it the the corner clamps. Repeat for the other side irons and she should be ready to give it the folding test. 20210602_175749.jpg 20210602_170149.jpg
     
    brEad, simplestone and ottoman like this.

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