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Projects 1931 Model AV8 Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Willows, Jan 28, 2019.

  1. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    BAck at it....Well its Bonneville time....Another year and not ready! Shock i know! We will unfortunately not even be attending this year due to work commitments. Anywaaay some updates at least. Thanks for looking.

    I made new wood for the roof, i get these pieces of white oak from work before they throw them away (off pallets of stuff we get), planes really nice. So i made a pattern for the curve and then planed it into shape.

    IMG_3678.JPG IMG_3680.JPG IMG_3681.JPG IMG_3682.JPG

    I got a box of 1 3/4 mandrel bends and started making the exhaust, i had been looking forward to doing this. I found it really challenging especially on the drivers side to get it round the steering box.
    IMG_3477.JPG
    I started with a set of reds headers which did not fit round all my stuff. so i cut them all up and started over.

    To make expanded joints i pressed small sections of the tube over 1 3/4 bar stock. then i wanted to make flanged tips and exit it out the sides infront of the rear wheels. IMG_3776.JPG IMG_3779.JPG IMG_3780.JPG IMG_3789.JPG IMG_3791.JPG IMG_3796.JPG IMG_3796.JPG This is the drivers side, passenger looks the same but was quite a bit simpler. I used flex joints between teh headers. and put hangers om the rails

    IMG_3790.JPG
    I cant wait to hear this run, i hope that it wont be too loud to enjoy it.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    I still needed to make the drive shaft, so i cut one to length then machined the end so it was a tight press fit to a coupling. i had seen irontrap garage do it like this and it looked likes a great way. IMG_4137.JPG IMG_4138.JPG IMG_4139.JPG IMG_4178.JPG Then i welded and pinned it together.

    reassembling it ifound that i had made the torque tube slightly too long once everything was back together The UJ was too tight to the output shaft and was limiting the movement of the speedo gear. so i needed to redo it. cut out about 1/2" then used same method as before to weld it back together.
    IMG_4433.JPG IMG_4442.JPG
    everything went together again nicely.
     
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  3. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    matt donated a pretty bent hood so i could extend mine the 3" or so. need to get it back into shape with the english wheel and welded it to the front. i used the lower hood rods and magnets to hold it in place whilst i welded it. i was pretty pleased how it came out.
    IMG_4473.JPG IMG_4474.JPG IMG_4481.JPG IMG_4483.JPG

    I have also done the brake lines, ill have to find the photos of that.
     
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  4. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    started on the seat using webbing as a base. i put a bar between the two seats hopefully to stop driver and passenger getting in each others business. IMG_4919.jpeg IMG_4958.jpeg

    Im gonna try and make a screw adjuster this weekend. then be close to upholstery.
     
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  5. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    i made a throttle linkage and carb linkage using some old spring cup linkages. you have to lock the springs out after they are on the ball. so i made a little cup with a set screw and welded it on. without this the spring will compress as the lever is pulled. IMG_4913.jpeg IMG_4960.jpg

    i removed the tires from the 35 wheels and changed over to kelseys that we managed to gather together. i just rattled can them so they match better with the rest of the bad paint.
    IMG_4959.jpeg
     
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  6. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    i need to start working harder on this. im starting to see the end of it and im gettting excited about driving and hearing it. thanks for listening!
     
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  7. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 297

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    Nice update. I see you have gotten after it again. Those kelseys look ace. Bad ass fab work my friend!
     
  8. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 920

    rod1
    Member

    Nice details. Love the look.
     
  9. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    Cheers Mate!

    THank you rod1!
     
  10. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    Spent a while today making a seat adjuster. this was probably a bit of a waste of time cos im sure it will stay in the same position. i thought maybe would want to move it forward if the mrs wants to drive it (aint gonna happen). i also should maybe should of waited for one to come up for sale, but seems like they may not that often?

    i bought a 1/2"-6 nut and bolt from mcmaster (if you havent used these guys, they are amazing, incredible website)
    IMG_4964.jpg

    Made a plate for mounting to the seat. Then stole a valve handle from my oxy bottle.
    machined the head off the bolt to make a small cylinder, this will act as the stop when moving the seat closer. then welded on a piece of 3/8" rod - this is how i held it straight.
    IMG_4966.jpg
    Cut the rod to length, machined round and then machined a square on to fit the valve handle. tappedinto the square #8-32 welded two small cylinders fo the nut to make a the captured nut. and cut out a bit of square tube to hold the nut.
    IMG_4992.jpeg
    welded the captured nut in to the holder, spins freely (on axis) in there to stop the seat getting into a bind.
    IMG_4993.jpeg
    reinforced the back of the plate
    IMG_5001.jpg
    put it all together and you have a seat that adjusts, its a little slow but works good!
    IMG_5002.jpg
    think ill polish the handle and remove the "on" "off"
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2021
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  11. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 297

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    Thats pretty slick. I'm confused at the vise stack up pic. Where in all this, is that long 3/8 smooth rod? Did it become the square nose piece?
     
  12. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    ha yeah im confused also. the threaeded mcmaster piece is stickin through a hole in the table. after i machined the head off i drilled a 3/8" hole in it, stuck the rod in it then welded it. its easeir to hold a long one than a little stubby one. thats what she said. then cutt it off and machined it propper true, although it was super close then cut the square on it.
    the second vice is just acting as weight on the first. like a compensator handle on a hall.
     
  13. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 297

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    Ha, yeah, I was gonna axe if you drilled a hole in the nose of that bolt. The only way it made sense was for a hole to be in the table. Tits work as usual my friend.
     
  14. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    Made some dies for my bead roller to put a bead on the radiator pipes and then made some pipes out of 1 1/4 SS. im not sure i like them though. so may make some different ones. dies came out good though and worked well. i also added a motor to the cheap woodward roller. also strengthened it up. i just used a 12v winch and control. works good.
    IMG_4656.JPG
    IMG_4667.JPG
    IMG_4666.JPG
    IMG_4721.JPG
    IMG_4669.JPG
     
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  15. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 297

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    Diggin those foot controls! Bead roller tooling is titties.
     
  16. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    rear spring work. i am trying to make it a little higher in the rear, or create more slope forward. i have a reversed main spring in the back. i made some shortened shackles first. but this made it even lower. Stretching the spring more, lowered the arch more than with the original shackles. so that was a waste of time. heres the shackles anyway.
    IMG_4697.JPG IMG_4698.JPG
    back to the drawing board. so i decided to unreverse the main. but first i wanted to add air/hydraulic pump to press. it sucked pumping the ram when i did the front. i got a cheap one online. i needed to remake the connection where the plunger is.
    IMG_0007.JPG
    heres the pump attached - see the clear line this takes the fluid from the cylinder back to the resorvoir in the pump. if you dont add this it eventually builds up enough pressure that a massive shot of hydraulic fluid will shoot across your shop. ask me how i know.
    IMG_0013.JPG IMG_0012.JPG
    heres the spring before and after.
    IMG_0008.JPG IMG_0014.JPG
    i made new spring clamps and shackle bolts (because the new bushings were 1/2")
    IMG_0091.JPG IMG_0092.JPG
    reinstalled it all after matching all the arches of the spring, some were a little off. Gained a total of 1.5" plus a stiffer spring. Happy with the result, but i think that i am now going to find a new axle and drop the front a little. i have not been happy with the axle since i got it - will go to a conventional drop rather than a stretch drop.
     
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  17. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    tach work. i cut a snout off a old crank, cut jaws and indicated it to make sure its concentric and straight. screwed a bolt in and drilled a 1/4" hole thru it. this is the foundation to get the drive centered.
    image_6483441.JPG
    then made a 7/8-18 nut to attach the drive.
    image_6483441 (1).JPG
    then started making a holder for drive using a 1/4" dia piece in the bolt.
    unnamed.jpg unnamed (2).jpg unnamed (1).jpg
    welding the pieces as i go. after threading the bar so i can use a bolt to hold it all in place.
    image_6483441 (2).JPG
     
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  18. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    whist making this i found a 2:1 drive (same SW one) on the bay. this makes things easier because needed to slow it down to the drive. i got that and made the connection to the bolt.
    IMG_0093.JPG IMG_0094.JPG IMG_0095.JPG IMG_0096.JPG
    now i just need to make a cable
     
  19. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    heres the car all back together. im not sure if you can tell its higher. but it certainly feels like it when you are sat in it - way safer view of the road.
    IMG_0097.JPG IMG_0098.JPG
    thats all for now. thanks for looking.

    A
     
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  20. PINEAPPLE
    Joined: Aug 26, 2012
    Posts: 297

    PINEAPPLE
    Member

    Man. incredible shop work. digging all this kind and ting
     
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  21. Bugguts
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 710

    Bugguts
    Member

    Wow! Great job so far. Thanks for taking the time to share all this.
    I’m blown away at all the machining and tools developed for each job.
    I look forward to seeing more.
     
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  22. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    Thanks Bugguts! I think one of my favorite things is making and adapting tools.
     
  23. @Willows, mission accomplished! That sits just right!
     
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  24. unforgiven
    Joined: Sep 6, 2007
    Posts: 123

    unforgiven
    Member
    from East Tn

    Amazing work the tach drive is ingenious.
     
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  25. Willows
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 65

    Willows
    Member

    @brEad thank you mate, yeah much better. I also have a new axle pending from anson which I hope will push it over the edge!
    @unforgiven thanks mate, appreciate that!!
     

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