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Projects 1931 Model A Tudor build "flathead sedan"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hurley50, Nov 27, 2018.

  1. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Here is my newly aquired model a sedan. It was a stalled project that I took over. It is channeled 4", wheelbase is extended 5", 40 ford truck rear end, 1951 truck flathead with side shift trans, dropped front axle. This body is really solid, came with all the fenders, boxing plates, steering colum (F1), seats and other random parts. Let's see if we can make this into a hot rod. IMG_9776.jpg IMG_9777.jpg
     
  2. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    First thing is to put the size tires I will be using so I can decide the direction I'm going. 750-16 and 550-16


    IMG_9778.jpg
     
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  3. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    This is the 8BA, looks real clean inside. I had my kids bolt the transmission on, they love to help. IMG_9799.jpg IMG_9801.jpg IMG_9829.jpg
     
  4. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Put the engine in, the reason for the extended frame was to fit this flathead in of course, but I think I'm going to shorten the frame back up and cut the firewall a little. The good thing is the frame was mostly tacked together and not really finished.
    IMG_9831.jpg
     
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  5. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Here is the frame, needs some attention for sure. I also picked up an S-10 T5. With the 40 ford truck rear end with 4:11 gears and a 51 truck 3 speed I think it will drive like a truck... the 5 speed should help it be fun to drive.

    IMG_0280.jpg IMG_0282.jpg IMG_9873.jpg
     
  6. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    This is where the frame was extended, I can't live with this so I cut this section out. I'm going to shorten it up a little as well. Lots of levels, measurements without a frame table... it can be done just takes a little longer to make sure everything is square...

    IMG_0368.jpg IMG_0369.jpg IMG_0370.jpg
     
  7. Nice work, Matt!! Good for you saving a stalled, misguided project!

    It's in good hands now! Proper build forthcoming....
     
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  8. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,778

    butch27
    Member

    Looks like a great start. Nice find
     
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  9. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    The body is very solid. The blue tape is marking a 5" chop. I take it into photoshop and chop it to the actual scale (so the blue tape marks are gone) so I can see exactly what it would look like. See the 2nd picture that is photoshop chopped. I like the 5" I think. Can't wait to actually chop it.
    IMG_0287.jpg
    IMG_0287 chop.jpg
     
  10. Bugguts
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 542

    Bugguts
    Member

    Glad you saved it. Going to be a cool ride. I’m watching!
     
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  11. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 420

    junkman8888
    Member

    The frame you has been hacked on so much it's not worth saving, my advice is to replace it with a '32, for several reasons:
    (1) The added depth of the '32 frame is visually more appealing than the skimpy Model A.
    (2) The "swoop" of the front and rear frame sections automatically lowers the vehicle.
    (3) I know you intend to chop the car, if you also intend to channel it you need a frame that follows the outline of the body, that way you can install dropped floors so you sit between the frame rails, not on top of them (this will give you added headroom, super important with a serious chop).
    While I'm at it, instead of reversing the firewall (which reduces leg room), consider moving the body back on the frame then shortening the body behind the doors. You can see what this looks like on photoshop before you start cutting metal. Best of luck with your project
     
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  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 24,708

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well there is always someone who pops with how to spend and extra 2500 out of your budget on the build.
    I like the idea of pulling the frame back to close to original length and moving the engine back were it should be. I've got an inkling that when we see photos of that frame in the coming weeks it won't have near as many scabs on it ether.
     
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  13. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Thanks for your opinion, my roadster has a 32 frame. I've priced one out, and this still may happen if I can't get this frame in shape. This car already has the channeled floor and body mounts welded in so I'm going to keep moving forward this way.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2018
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  14. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Ha! Thanks!
     
  15. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 7,848

    brady1929
    Member
    from Mesa, Az

    Great project. Good luck.
     
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  16. Cool project and nice save. Watching this one go together.:D
     
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  17. wagoon78
    Joined: Nov 13, 2008
    Posts: 349

    wagoon78
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have an 8ba in my sedan with the fuel pump stand almost touching the firewall. I pushed my radiator out and inch or so to clear the fan and didn't have to modify firewall. Just used little plates to offset the radiator out. If you aren't running a hood you just need longer radiator support rods or you can make a longer hood.

    Or just cut into firewall as you planned. Just throwing out another option.
     
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  18. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Thanks, I cut my firewall for my roadster around the bead line and that seemed to work well. I’ve also read you can modify the pulleys for and 8ba to run only one fan belt which allows you to move the fan back a little.


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  19. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,419

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    5" chop with a 4" channel, yikes! That's gonna be tight in there. Will look cool though.
     
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  20. Looking good Matt! With all that space in your new shop, you'll have that thing together in no time! Cant wait to see it in person.
     
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  21. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Good thing I’m tall!


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  22. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,349

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

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  23. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    I put the speedway adapter on the T5. I used the shaft/fork from the 51 trans I had. One thing the kit does not come with is a place for the return spring to mount on the trans. I made a little sheet metal tab to hold the spring that bolts to the trans. Seems to work fine.

    [​IMG][​IMG]


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  24. shortypu
    Joined: Dec 22, 2010
    Posts: 130

    shortypu
    Member

    Very cool project,nice clean body.Im also building a 31 sedan that is 4''longer frame,uncut firewall,flathead and a T5.Mine is not channeled or chopped and probly will stay that way.I did the 5.50 and 7.50 combo also.Yours looks really good with that channel. IMG_0847.JPG IMG_0848.JPG
     
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  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,349

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

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  26. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    This car looks great! Thanks for sharing


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  27. I like your idea of the heavy Chop. Most jobs I've seen are done by Cutting just as you have the Blue Tape. When done that way it takes a lot of work to get the window channel and the Body Skin back in line. That generally means vertical cuts to get things where they belong. If I told you there's a better way would think I was Nutz?
    The Wizzard
     
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  28. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 557

    Hurley50
    Member
    from NC

    Thanks! The blue tape areas are not where I'm going to actually cut it, they are just for photoshop reference only. Once I get serious I will mark the actual cuts, I've chopped a few cars, this will be the easiest for sure. I'm all for advice if you have any though. Also thinking about leaning the A pillars back....
     
  29. I've done a few of these Sedans over the years though it's been around 10 since I did the last one. At first glance most think they are square and strait on the vertical edge of the windows. Not true, they have tapper top to bottom. I never cut all the way through the Body skin and the inner structure. If you look at the vertical edge for the quarter window opening you'll see that it is narrower at the top than the bottom. That's what causes the metal finish problem if you cut in the center of the window opening. For me I always go to the Top of the opening, mark the bottom where the corner radius just starts. That's my top cut. Measure down from there my section to remove. I also never cut through the inner vertical channel at those points. I go clear to the Top of the A, B and C post. I remove the top horizontal bar that the top wood fastens to and just clip off the Chop amount and fasten the horizontal bar back to it. This way getting a perfect cut in the middle so everything stays vertical and in line isn't an issue at all. Now when you weld the top body metal of the window opening all you do is flush the outside of the skin and now you have a slight step at the cut line. Measure the step and make a filler the proper thickness. I've found gauge material works for light Chops and 1/16" flat for heavy Chops. That's a fine tune part of the metal finish stage. I never cut the back panel in a way it severs the hide-em or T strip between the Back panel and Quarter panel. I leave it in tact, remove the bolts and re curve it to fit the wrap of the top and clip off the free end to fit, no welding the strip at all. Same at the windshield. Don't cut the A post in the middle, cut it off just the top of the post and remove the top door hinge. If you keep it simple you have less finish work to do and it's easier to make the windows roll up and down. If you lean the A post like a Murry Body you will want to look that over real good before you start. Leaning it back might create a lift in the center of windshield frame causing a gap between the Tank and the Glass frame. I know everyone does things different, I just hope this gives you some food for thought. Any questions feel free to ask. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I actually have another 30 Sedan here to do and could go look for refresher and reference.
    The Wizzard
     
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  30. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,349

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    ^ that’s a good read.

    I did this quick photo chop of @Austin kays sedan a while ago. I chopped it more in the front than the back to give some subtle rake. Kinda reminded me of how a 32 sedan has a little more shape to it. Figured you wouldn’t mind me posting the idea while we are talking chops. 4DB021AF-CFF0-4A7A-B01E-B5DAC6509F00.jpeg
     
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