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Projects 1931 Model A Coupe Y-Block Build (Father&Son)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by NathanxStewart, Jan 4, 2016.

  1. JimmyD3234
    Joined: Dec 3, 2015
    Posts: 548

    JimmyD3234
    Member
    from PA

    my buddy did something like this on has 32 3w/d the KELLY COUPE - EX -WORK
     
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  2. JimmyD3234
    Joined: Dec 3, 2015
    Posts: 548

    JimmyD3234
    Member
    from PA

    THE KELLY COUPE had a cad - motor - Lasal /trans /40 rear
     
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  3. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 31,495

    loudbang
    Member

    Can you teach us a bit and explain why you went with brazing at the sections that have raised portions? I used brazing myself and had no problems but some of the members here hate it with a passion.
     
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  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,906

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Yeah, I was curious about the brazing too.
     
  5. Limey Kid
    Joined: Mar 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,021

    Limey Kid
    Member

    Wonderful attention to detail. Everything is just so well thought out. Just plain jealous. I could just about wipe my own arse at your age, and you're building stuff like this. Bugger!
    Cheers,
    Stewart.
     
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  6. Hey thanks a lot jimmy!!
     
  7. Thank you!!
     
  8. Dino, thank you for keeping up with my build and liking my work. I really appreciate it!!
     
  9. Nice that's cool, I'm pretty sure I've seen pictures of it cause the car sounds familiar. Have any pictures of it?
     
  10. @loudbang @Dino64 It's actually l not brazed! It's TIG welded with silicon bronze rod. Because it has a low melting point, and that means it can be used to fill a void with less warpage than steel rod. There was a slight void in those two spots where the original bead met the new piece.
     
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  11. It's actually l not brazed! It's TIG welded with silicon bronze rod. Because it has a low melting point, and that means it can be used to fill a void with less warpage than steel rod. There was a slight void in those two spots where the original bead met the new piece.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  12. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 31,495

    loudbang
    Member

    Thanks for the good info.
     
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  13. Hahaha thanks Stewart! All thanks to my dad, he's the man.
     
  14. Of course!!
     
  15. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member


    There really is nothing wrong with brazing. Just like any other method of joining two or more pieces of metal, it has it's place. It gets a bad rep because too many times the flux doesn't get cleaned off thoroughly, and the primer / paint will lift after a short time. I don't believe there is any good reason to braze bodywork in this day and age. I think it was used a lot in the past before MIG and TIG machines became commonplace in home shops.
     
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  16. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 31,495

    loudbang
    Member


    Exactly the problem. But I think the new mig and tig using the Silicon bronze rod is just brazing undated for use with the new machines. :p Whatever method you chose to use is still better for it's low heat needed.
     
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  17. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

    I'm liking every bit of this build.That is going to be one well built ride,but with 3 generations on the job,how can you go wrong?
     
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  18. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    That's about right, but no flux to clean off and neutralize.
     
  19. 1951hudson
    Joined: Sep 22, 2014
    Posts: 93

    1951hudson
    Member

    Kind of off the main subject but can that silicon bronze rod be used to perfect a metal piece prior the chrome plating ? I know that you can't use lead because the lead will dissolve during the plating process...
     
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  20. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,949

    metal man
    Member

    Yep, it takes chrome just fine. As a matter of fact, it's the best thing I've found for filling rust pits or other imperfections.
     
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  21. Thank you very much!!
     
  22. Fabricated a new body brace out of 2x3 rectangular tubing since the old one was rotted away. Had to make cuts along the brace so we could get a slight arch out of it. That way it was snug around the body. It's welded to the sub rails of the body.

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  23. THX for teaching me ! :))))
     
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  24. Haha anytime!!
     
  25. I don't have many pictures of the process of making the sub rails. They are made out of 1 1/2" x 3" x .083" wall rectangular tubing. I drilled holes through the sub rails and welded in crush sleeves,and welded nuts in the frame so the sub rails bolt on the frame. Also the drive shaft tunnel is in and the floor has been started.

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  26. Roger53
    Joined: Aug 8, 2010
    Posts: 383

    Roger53
    Member

    Well I've been pretty much out in the shop not on here.So it's nice to find one hell of a nice build to start with. Nice! Roger
     
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  27. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,906

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Look'in good. Hope you show us how you repair the wheel well. It's the curved part that comes into the body, the "flares" I think they're called. Thanks for sharing your build.
     
    NathanxStewart likes this.
  28. Thanks Roger!!
     
  29. Thank you! Yes I will be, we will actually be starting on that here soon. The aftermarket ones come flat, but I think we have a set of quarters and the curved part is in good condition on them. So I don't think we will need to do much work.
     
  30. Mounted the rear body panel along with a set of '50 Pontiac taillights and my license plate.

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    kiwijeff, crminal, y'sguy and 2 others like this.

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