The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by NathanxStewart, Jan 4, 2016.
my buddy did something like this on has 32 3w/d the KELLY COUPE - EX -WORK
THE KELLY COUPE had a cad - motor - Lasal /trans /40 rear
Can you teach us a bit and explain why you went with brazing at the sections that have raised portions? I used brazing myself and had no problems but some of the members here hate it with a passion.
Yeah, I was curious about the brazing too.
Wonderful attention to detail. Everything is just so well thought out. Just plain jealous. I could just about wipe my own arse at your age, and you're building stuff like this. Bugger!
Hey thanks a lot jimmy!!
Dino, thank you for keeping up with my build and liking my work. I really appreciate it!!
Nice that's cool, I'm pretty sure I've seen pictures of it cause the car sounds familiar. Have any pictures of it?
@loudbang @Dino64 It's actually l not brazed! It's TIG welded with silicon bronze rod. Because it has a low melting point, and that means it can be used to fill a void with less warpage than steel rod. There was a slight void in those two spots where the original bead met the new piece.
It's actually l not brazed! It's TIG welded with silicon bronze rod. Because it has a low melting point, and that means it can be used to fill a void with less warpage than steel rod. There was a slight void in those two spots where the original bead met the new piece.
Thanks for the good info.
Hahaha thanks Stewart! All thanks to my dad, he's the man.
There really is nothing wrong with brazing. Just like any other method of joining two or more pieces of metal, it has it's place. It gets a bad rep because too many times the flux doesn't get cleaned off thoroughly, and the primer / paint will lift after a short time. I don't believe there is any good reason to braze bodywork in this day and age. I think it was used a lot in the past before MIG and TIG machines became commonplace in home shops.
Exactly the problem. But I think the new mig and tig using the Silicon bronze rod is just brazing undated for use with the new machines. Whatever method you chose to use is still better for it's low heat needed.
I'm liking every bit of this build.That is going to be one well built ride,but with 3 generations on the job,how can you go wrong?
That's about right, but no flux to clean off and neutralize.
Kind of off the main subject but can that silicon bronze rod be used to perfect a metal piece prior the chrome plating ? I know that you can't use lead because the lead will dissolve during the plating process...
Yep, it takes chrome just fine. As a matter of fact, it's the best thing I've found for filling rust pits or other imperfections.
Thank you very much!!
Fabricated a new body brace out of 2x3 rectangular tubing since the old one was rotted away. Had to make cuts along the brace so we could get a slight arch out of it. That way it was snug around the body. It's welded to the sub rails of the body.
THX for teaching me ! )))
I don't have many pictures of the process of making the sub rails. They are made out of 1 1/2" x 3" x .083" wall rectangular tubing. I drilled holes through the sub rails and welded in crush sleeves,and welded nuts in the frame so the sub rails bolt on the frame. Also the drive shaft tunnel is in and the floor has been started.
Well I've been pretty much out in the shop not on here.So it's nice to find one hell of a nice build to start with. Nice! Roger
Look'in good. Hope you show us how you repair the wheel well. It's the curved part that comes into the body, the "flares" I think they're called. Thanks for sharing your build.
Thank you! Yes I will be, we will actually be starting on that here soon. The aftermarket ones come flat, but I think we have a set of quarters and the curved part is in good condition on them. So I don't think we will need to do much work.
Mounted the rear body panel along with a set of '50 Pontiac taillights and my license plate.
Separate names with a comma.