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Projects 1931 Ford 3W Build "Marilyn"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DylanHill1931, Nov 14, 2016.

  1. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

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  2. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

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  3. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Sorry I’ve been absent I’ve done some to the coupe and ordered the floor kit with the rear crossmember but am currently working on rebuilding the motor and trans in my 55 chevy truck but here are some updates on the three window!
    [​IMG] got some speed parts for the flathead!
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] last picture is photoshop I will be leaning the top of the “B” pillar forward and rounding the door corner as well as a slight chops when the car is together that is. But that’s pretty much all I’ve got for right now, I picked up two 3speed w/overdrive trans out of 53 Fords and two F1 boxes. Will get back to the coupe as soon as my truck is done about half way through it now.


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  4. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 4,483

    atch
    Member

    progress???
     
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  5. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] ok so yes I have been working on the coupe on and off not too much since the hot weather rolled in but I make my way over as often as possible. Decided to recess the firewall but didn’t want the ones they sell so I cut up a perfectly good late 31! Cut along the bolted/welded edge reversed it and then cut out the center and flipped it back. I then had the problem of the factory kick out at the bottom of it and thought about flattening it out which would have been very easy...nope I decided to make 3 different bends in one piece. ( was quite the task with my tools) but made one side and mimicked it in the other and I love how it came out! Wanted it to have that stock feel to it! I then found a killer deal on a slant window cowl. I had been making good progress on “slanting” mine but ran into another issue with the A pillars being rotated outwards versus a slant window and also got tired of cutting on this same cowl. Only solution was to cut more out of the Vicky doors or cut the entire A pillar loose to rotate in....I drove down to FL and picked it up! It’s in great shape. It will be blasted and primed like the rest of the parts. I then bought a complete floor kit all lower patches and trunk gutter and triangles. Mocked up body took measurements and used some of the (Kleckos) I got off eBay. I then picked up some suspension parts and decided to make her roll! Got some ‘40 ford steelies for 21$ and a set of 17” wires from a friend! She’s coming along and I plan to have the body at least completely tacked together by the end of the year!


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  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,622

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good to see you still soldiering on this project @DylanHill1931 looking good...not unusual to change direction on the fly...it just evolves...
     
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  7. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,258

    The37Kid
    Member

    That slant window cowl will speed up the body work I'm sure. Bob
     
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  8. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Oh yeah this ol girl will be done, new job involves travel but is good money so will be able to build the motor and trans and save up for all the little things like front end Parts.


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  9. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Oh yeah still need patch panels at the bottom but it’s very nice! Couldn’t beat the price!


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  10. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    I heard that my Superbell 4” drop axle is prone to cracking as it’s cast and not forged like the original Ford axles, any one ever had a problem with them?


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  11. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] was lucky enough to pick up this old Foxcraft column shift to floor shift conversion from what appears to be the 50s!


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  12. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    [​IMG][​IMG] anyone ever put the spring behind the rear axle to lower the car? Been looking for pictures but only a few have showed up on search. I don’t want to Z the frame and realized I can drop the car substantially by extending the rear crossmember and doing it this way. Anyone have pics or ideas


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  13. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,629

    thirtytwo
    Member

    You can only go so low , without z the frame the axle will contact frame at somepoint where do you want the tire in reference to the wheel arch? I stacked 2x4 tube on top of a frame once and used a 40 spring like the one in your picture and it put the tire about 2” down from the arch
     
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  14. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Would love for the wheel to match the wheel arch height wise but I know in order to do the I would have to kick up the rear of the frame, I’m not 100 percent against this but I would definitely like to go as low as I can without disturbing the frame/subframe, what size tire and rims were you running? I’m undecided on ‘40 steelies or 17” spokes.


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  15. I've built a couple of these frames, you gotta Z it to get it down. I like a z the width of the frame and using a 40 rear spring (reverse eye) by extending the frame back about 6 inches. using the 40 spring you don't have to deal with the high arch of the a rear cross member, if your not using a quick change it don't matter. You get the rear end down, you get more body support past the rear axle centerline and you gain trunk space.

    The round tube cross member in the first pic you posted up looks like a So-Cal one I highly recommend using that, it makes putting the rear spring in a snap.
     
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  16. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Stance can make or break a car no doubt. I definitely want it to be right when all said and done and I’m still on the fence on “Z”ing the frame in the rear. I love the 50s Hotrod style and that part of me wants to “sweep” the front and Z the hell outta the rear but I want to run a hood and stock A shell so that somewhat eliminates that idea but I suppose I’ll extend the frame get/make a rear crossmember and run the reverse eye ‘40 spring set the car up and look at it. Stock height is definitely not gonna happen though. And as of right now, no quick change. Maybe one day


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  17. Ideas,,,
    Mock it up with the frame setting on the rear axle. Hopefully it's 3" too low for your liking. Add in the suspension travel and your good.

    If you happen to like the resulting stance with the frame setting on the axle then you need a 3" z to get the travel.

    If you think it needs to go 2" lower then you need to z 2" plus 3"
     
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  18. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,629

    thirtytwo
    Member

    I am working on a 29 roadster right now , that will be z’d as in the tardel book , you have notch the inside of the subrails, and the crossmember sits at the top part of subrails, eliminating the wood block, we used a old yankee spring that is model t ish .. should be done for pics in a week or so if you can wait, that car has 7.00-16 and 5.50-16s on it

    When I did my coupe I used 2x4 box tubing and made it so the frame came inside the subrails, made a hump in the floor and attaced that to stock subrails used a 40 spring and rear which ride a bit nicer than an a spring
     
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  19. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Ok I will definitely try this once I can get the spring compressor from my friend and I believe it will be low enough for me but I would need my actual tires and rims so I suppose I need to decide on which rim to run and thank you very much for the ideas and tips


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  20. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    I have contemplated Z’ing the frame the height of it which wouldn’t result in too much space loss, and I imagine could be done fairly easily and I heard the T springs in an A do sit slightly lower. I’ll also try the 2x4 tubing. I imagine I would need to C notch the frame or move inside as you did for the extra 1” of clearance


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  21. hfh
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 256

    hfh
    Member
    from Western MA

    Thanks for sharing the details of your journey. You will really enjoy having it when its drivable. It is looking great!
     
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  22. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Absolutely! Hopefully it may help someone wanting to do a similar build or detail should someone ever want to! And oh yes! Very excited to drive this thing some day!


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  23. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,629

    thirtytwo
    Member

    017E4DB2-12BF-4771-9476-67AD72E30F70.jpeg 91AD9460-ACE9-4198-B631-49F0CA6609CB.jpeg B3924E86-37C8-45AF-9235-FA72686600EA.jpeg I miss-spoke apparently I have never messed with a model a with decent subrails, or if I did a street rod frame was used, I had to make a 1/2” bump in stock subs for this car, not a 30 but this maybe of some help
     
  24. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    Very nice looking roadster! And I like how you did the subframe, I suppose you just clearanced the subrails enough to slide over top of the frame?! Did you just bolt the frame directly to the top of the frame?!


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  25. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,629

    thirtytwo
    Member

    BB9F5636-F68F-4980-9DBB-8B3A6F20B156.jpeg 6ECEEE15-672C-4A69-BCB2-3E94DC97A3E6.jpeg
    Basically I just made a little riser and used a little piece of 3/16 as a spacer/ re-enforcement where the subrail bolts to the crossmember , the car was a rumble seat car so we used the rumble seat riser , and cut a hole in it for the crossmember to poke through and a stock model a crossmember cover on top of that

    The rear spring is from 100% Matt on here I think a guy could probably de arch it another inch or so but after that the u bolts would come a little to close to the banjo for my taste

    Oh and the tires are 7.00-16 and 5.50-16 in case you want to compare to what you are going to run
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2018
  26. Good decision looks Great
    From post 203,
    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2018
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  27. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,629

    thirtytwo
    Member

    Was digging around and found a pic of my old coupe, this was the 2x4 tubing stacked on top of a frame with a 2” round crossmember centered 40 rear ended and spring , those tires in pic were 6.50-16 E9B3A781-AF1F-45C5-8579-A673D2B6D0EF.jpeg
     
  28. DylanHill1931
    Joined: Nov 7, 2016
    Posts: 185

    DylanHill1931
    Member
    from Va Beach

    That sits good! I like that! Not looking for super low with my coupe, I just want it to be noticeably lowered from stock....but I’m sure to someone who doesn’t know they’ll think it’s stock height lol, thank you for posting I just bought some 2x4 so I may end up doing this!


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  29. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,629

    thirtytwo
    Member

    No prob. The reason I did the frame that way was that I actually only had the front half of the frame from center cross forward , so grafted 2x4 from there back then stacked it about the wheel well area , so on this particular car the frame didn’t “bowe out” like a typical a frame ..it was a consistent taper , if I remember right the frame poked up inside the subrails you will need about a 2” c notch but with 4” tubing there is a lot of meat on the bone yet, the 40 spring will make it ride like a Cadillac compared to the A spring

    Like I said those moch up tires are only 6.50 which is 27” I think?.. so a 7.00 or 7.50 would really fill in the wheel well nice , the front moch tires were Harley sportster tires , they were about 25-26” I think , that picture is about 20yrs old, I’ve had some head trauma since then so things are a little fuzzy
     
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